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How Shift Lenses Change your Life<br />

If you externally meter, then a meter reading good for a centered shot will be too short an exposure for a<br />

shifted shot. How much too short? Who knows, bracket! 8-) On the other hand, the camera meter<br />

depends on taking readings <strong>of</strong> light <strong>of</strong>f <strong>of</strong> partial reflections, and depend on the angle the light hits the<br />

sensors. When you shift, the light comes from a different direction and the sensors may see none <strong>of</strong> it (or<br />

too much), so they will suggest a bad exposure.<br />

How to Get a Good Exposure<br />

If you don't want to bracket, you need to build up some base-line cos^4 data for your lens. Perhaps the<br />

following might be agreeable:<br />

1. Build comparison series: on slide film, photograph a grey card metered with 0 shift and no<br />

exposure compensation, then -1/3, -2/3, -1, -1 1/3 stop. (either internal meter or external is fine)<br />

2. Find worst-case drop<strong>of</strong>f: shift maximum (horizontally if you can shift sideways), and use the<br />

same shutter and aperture as the first shot <strong>of</strong> your comparison series.<br />

3. Develop these shots.<br />

4. Using the center <strong>of</strong> the series shots, determine whether the maximum shift is -2/3 darker or<br />

whatever. That maximum shift is 36mm(width)/2+11mm(shift)= 29mm from image center. If<br />

you want, measure the fall<strong>of</strong>f at other distances.<br />

Then: after metering a scene with a handheld meter or unshifted lens, set the exposure manually but with<br />

the test-result compensation. This should be perfectly accurate with one caveat: Because the darkening is<br />

progressive, the maximally-shifted side will always be somewhat darker. For arrchitecture, this is perfect<br />

- it saves you from using an actual graduated filter to bring the sky and ground brightness closer.<br />

Since you may not be able to see this difference in the viewfinder, your probably still want to bracket,<br />

but bracket from the external/unshifted exposure to your test-result maximum compensation. Some<br />

picture in that range should be ok.<br />

Wish List<br />

The only return I get on writing an article like this is the right to voice my own opinions - and hopefully<br />

Canon's listening!<br />

New Lens<br />

More than anything in the world, I want a 35mm tilt-shift lens. The gap between the 24mm and 45mm is<br />

just too great. And, the 24mm is not sharp enough to have its images cropped 50% without pain. This<br />

lens physically works with the Extender EF 1.4x teleconverter (TC), but resolution seems to suffer<br />

somewhat. In effect, the TC creates a very expensive, 35mm f/4.9 lens with less than ideal sharpness.<br />

http://www.photo.net/photo/canon/tilt-shift (7 <strong>of</strong> 9)7/3/2005 2:24:04 AM

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