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Cleaning Cameras<br />

the lens is cleaned is important. Perhaps you did make those circle scratches on your lens.<br />

But maybe they're not too deep. Do they scatter light and decrease the contrast on your<br />

negative? Sure. A lot? Probably not too much. But if you clean your lens once a week (or<br />

day?) and continue adding these scratches, it will become real noticeable in a hurry.<br />

For cleaning an optical surface, straight wipes are much better. And for those <strong>of</strong> you who<br />

are really paranoid, you should switch to a different part <strong>of</strong> the cloth for *each* wipe. That<br />

way, if you did pick up a bit <strong>of</strong> sand, you won't drag it across again on the next wipe.<br />

Dusting <strong>of</strong>f lenses before using a cloth is important because it (hopefully) removes any<br />

abrasive materials.<br />

I would also definitely steer clear <strong>of</strong> using any cloth that isn't sold as a product specifically<br />

for cleaning optics. T-shirts may be nice and s<strong>of</strong>t to the touch, but how sure are you that a<br />

spec <strong>of</strong> sand (or thousands?) isn't stuck in that shirt from the last time you went to the<br />

beach or worked in the yard (or there when you bought it)? Sure enough to risk scratching<br />

your $2000 300 mm Nikkor? It really isn't worth it. Paper towels, tissue paper, cotton<br />

swabs... I have seen all <strong>of</strong> these readily scratch glass. But these are not manufactured or<br />

packaged to ensure that they do not contain *any* abrasive materials. If you know anyone<br />

who has regularly cleaned their eyeglasses with tissues or paper towels for a long time, take<br />

a look at their eyeglasses with a really bright flashlight and you'll see what might happen to<br />

your lens.<br />

Why am I going on so much about sand? Because the damage is permanent. Once a scratch<br />

is there, it's not coming <strong>of</strong>f.<br />

As far as cleaning solutions go... Again, I'd stick with ones that are supposed to be for<br />

optics. I am not sure what type <strong>of</strong> AR coatings are put on camera lenses, but many are quite<br />

durable and resistant to many solvents (we use isopropanol, methanol, acetone, toluene,<br />

sometimes even dish washing detergent). Since camera lenses are consumer products, I<br />

would expect the coatings to be pretty durable. But again, it comes down to quality...<br />

Rubbing alcohol has isopropanol in it but only a few percent. The rest is water, detergent<br />

and who knows what. I don't expect that the stuff sold as "pure" isopropanol is as good as<br />

the stuff I would use at work (reagent-grade, contaminants are measured in parts per<br />

million!) but it's far better than rubbing alcohol (and cheaper than reagent-grade too:). That<br />

goes for "exhaled water vapor" too... Do you know what's in it? Well I don't either, and I<br />

wouldn't risk putting it on my lens. Biological materials tend to be difficult to clean and<br />

corrosive if left on coatings for long periods (fingerprints can permanently damage a<br />

coating if left long enough).<br />

And here's a tip: If you've just put some cleaning fluid on your cloth and tried wiping <strong>of</strong>f a<br />

fingerprint, and there's still some there, wet another spot <strong>of</strong> the cloth (or a new cloth) and<br />

wipe again. Don't continue to reuse the cloth that isn't working. The solvent can only take<br />

http://www.photo.net/learn/cleaning-cameras (18 <strong>of</strong> 19) [5/15/2002 7:15:53 PM]

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