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Star Streak Tutorial<br />

● Use a tripod. Of course, if you're serious about landscape photography, you already have one. Big<br />

heavy stable ones are the best if you're looking at 6 hours <strong>of</strong> wind resistance.<br />

● Use color negative film. Ektar 25 is the best (f/2.8 or f/4 is probably the right exposure). Fuji 100<br />

would be my second choice (at f/5.6 or f/8). I used Afga Ultra 50 at f/4 but I don't really like this<br />

film in general (explained in my more general film recommendations).<br />

● A moon-free night is best. Failing that, point the camera in a part <strong>of</strong> the sky where the moon<br />

won't be.<br />

● Use a manual camera, e.g., Nikon FM, F3, (F4 can do it also, but I think the camera sucks). If<br />

your only camera is a fancy battery-dependent marvel, make sure you have fresh batteries<br />

available to make it close (and hope that it doesn't somehow close itself prematurely; if you aren't<br />

using a Nikon 8008 or 6006, you might want to test first).<br />

How to photograph the moon<br />

If you can't find a moon-free night then maybe you should try to get a good photo <strong>of</strong> the moon itself...<br />

Start with a tripod and a 200mm or longer lens. Your exposure should be f/11 and a shutter speed <strong>of</strong> 1/<br />

film-speed (e.g., f/11 and 1/400th <strong>of</strong> a second if you are using ISO 400 film). The moon is illuminated<br />

by the full light <strong>of</strong> the sun, attenuated to some extent by our atmosphere. You could say the same about<br />

your friend's face on a sunny day, in which case you'd apply the "sunny 16 rule" and set f/16 and 1/filmspeed.<br />

Why the discrepancy? The moon is made <strong>of</strong> darkish gray rock. But we see it at night when are<br />

eyes are adjusted to the dark so it looks rather white. In order to have the moon appear white on film,<br />

you need to overexpose it by 1 f-stop, i.e., use f/11 instead <strong>of</strong> f/16.<br />

philg@mit.edu<br />

<strong>Reader's</strong> <strong>Comments</strong><br />

Next time you're shooting star trails, try this: Make your long exposure at a small aperture, then open up<br />

the aperture for another five minutes. You'll get a star at the end <strong>of</strong> the trail, and be able to make out<br />

constellations. I like to hang my hat on the camera for a few minutes in between exposures to make a<br />

slight gap<br />

-- Roger Carlson, December 13, 1996<br />

A point to remember and contemplate with star photography:<br />

as stars are point sources, the numerical aperture <strong>of</strong> the lens is not the determining factor in the exposure<br />

<strong>of</strong> stars.<br />

http://www.photo.net/astro/star-streak (2 <strong>of</strong> 9)7/3/2005 2:15:29 AM

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