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Color Printers<br />

Secondly, monitor quality can be *very* important to this process. In addition to<br />

simply using Photoshop's gamma control to 'calibrate' the monitor, ideally you<br />

should be able to calibrate the monitor for different ambient light settings<br />

(adjusting for different 'white point' settings, essentially). If you've ever had the<br />

opportunity to do this on a monitor that supports it (read: a more expensive<br />

monitor), you know how important this aspect is. Depending on the monitor type, a<br />

little silverish card (or other implement) is held up to the monitor to match colors<br />

on the card to the screen. When you do this for sunny daylight vs. cloudy daylight<br />

vs. night incandescent or fluorescent desk lighting, you see just how much the<br />

apparent color shift <strong>of</strong> the monitor is with different ambient light sources. Change<br />

to the 'wrong' setting, and you'll see what I mean.<br />

In any event, a couple <strong>of</strong> things came to mind that were absent in your discussion<br />

<strong>of</strong> relevant info to your process. First <strong>of</strong> all, if you have obvious color casts,<br />

something is *very* wrong with the scan (I'm sure you know this). I've found that<br />

the most difficult part <strong>of</strong> the entire process is getting a good scan; as you noted,<br />

scanner s<strong>of</strong>tware and documentation is lacking, to say the least. Try, try again, the<br />

result you want is out there (assuming your scanner has the density range to capture<br />

your image properly; this is an important, and expensive, aspect).<br />

Now, assuming that you have a good scan, one aspect <strong>of</strong> Photoshop that wasn't<br />

mentioned was hue/saturation control. Obviously a good scan shouldn't need too<br />

much fussing with hue (color casts aside...), however I've found the saturation<br />

control to be invaluable to matching color to originals (referring to transparencies<br />

here, as 'color matching to originals' doesn't strictly apply to color negatives, only<br />

to color prints from negatives, which are subject to their own initial interpretation).<br />

You obviously have a pretty good grasp <strong>of</strong> Photoshop and how to correct an image;<br />

my recent 'discovery' <strong>of</strong> the power <strong>of</strong> the saturation control compels me to include<br />

it, since you didn't mention it.<br />

A couple <strong>of</strong> quickie notations to your post:<br />

*Don't* use a Kodak PhotoCD; PhotoCD and color fidelity are mutually exclusive<br />

(there are several websites that discuss this in detail)!!!<br />

If you have the money for a Polaroid Sprint Scan 4000, Microtek Artixscan 4000,<br />

or one <strong>of</strong> the just-announced high-res Nikon film scanners, buy one!<br />

Lastly, Shutterbug magazine's 'Digital Help: Q&A for Digital Photography' section<br />

by David Brooks has been an *excellent* source <strong>of</strong> cutting edge digital<br />

photography and printing information, especially for those interested in producing<br />

'fine art' quality prints.<br />

http://www.photo.net/equipment/digital/printers/primer (30 <strong>of</strong> 36)7/3/2005 2:20:36 AM

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