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How Shift Lenses Change your Life<br />

the above shift stuff, except that the only lenses that tilt are the Canon TS-E's. What does tilt do for you?<br />

Normally, everything in a plane a set distance from, and perpendicular to your lens will be in focus.<br />

When you use lens tilt, you forego the "perpendicular" constraint. You can tilt that plane quite severely<br />

if desired. The plane <strong>of</strong> the back element <strong>of</strong> the lens, the film plane, and the focus plane will all intersect.<br />

The classic example is for landscapes. You have wildflowers at your feet and Alps at infinity. f/22 won't<br />

give you the depth <strong>of</strong> field you need (well, it would at 24mm but at the sacrifice <strong>of</strong> sharpness). As its just<br />

after sunset there's not much light, and there is also a wind moving the flowers so a long exposure won't<br />

work. Fast shutter dictates big aperture, which means lousy depth-<strong>of</strong>-field... normally.<br />

As you tilt the lens, you make the focus plane tilt. However, a small tilt <strong>of</strong> the lens creates a huge tilt in<br />

the focus plane. Just 10 degrees <strong>of</strong> lens tilt can rotate the focus plane to the point that wild flowers a<br />

meter away, at the bottom <strong>of</strong> the frame, are perfectly focused as are distant alps.<br />

There are very mathematical explanations to calculate all the exact effect, but I don't know how you<br />

could use them accurately in the field. It would be nice if there was a focusing screen with a half-prism<br />

focusing aid at both the top and bottom <strong>of</strong> the frame. But there's not. The camera could also calculate<br />

this information for you and display it.<br />

The other tilt trick is just the opposite. Say you want everything out <strong>of</strong> focus except for the subject. Say<br />

there is a row <strong>of</strong> columns ahead <strong>of</strong> you, running left to right. Tilt like mad, focus one column, and the<br />

equally distant neighbors to the left and right will be fuzzy.<br />

Why You Can't Get a Good Exposure<br />

Wide angle lenses get darker the further from center you get. This is called "cos^4 vignetting" and is due<br />

to the light hitting the film at an angle. This is a problem when the lens->film distance is small compared<br />

to the image width.<br />

On SLR's, wide angle cameras use a "reverse telephoto" group at the back, so the rear <strong>of</strong> the lens is far<br />

enough away to leave room for the mirror. This extra glass hurts quality, but means that even a<br />

EF14mm/2.8L is about 40mm from the film, which is 36mm wide... which means "cos^4" is NOT<br />

visible on SLR wide-angles. Rangefinders like Leica M and Contax G and Mamiya 7 have no telephoto<br />

group, so their images are sharper - but the back <strong>of</strong> the lens is VERY close to the film, and the corners<br />

are much darker.<br />

So what does this have to do with your shift lens? Everything! Shift lenses make a picture much wider<br />

than a normal lens, but the distance from lens to film is still about 40mm. Your lens shifts 11mm, so the<br />

image is 36mm (film) + 11mm * 2 = 58mm or so. Unshifted, only the center 24mmx36mm <strong>of</strong> the image<br />

hits the film, and has no more cos^4 vignetting than a normal 35mm. However, as you shift, the darker<br />

part <strong>of</strong> the total image hits the film.<br />

http://www.photo.net/photo/canon/tilt-shift (6 <strong>of</strong> 9)7/3/2005 2:24:04 AM

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