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Filters - UV or not UV?<br />

is stronger than at sea level they are useful if you are shooting slide film. My guess is that if you're shooting print film or digital, any blue cast<br />

caused by UV can be removed by small correction in printing filtration or by color balancing digital files.<br />

On the other hand, if you're one <strong>of</strong> those people who really want a lens "protector", you migh as well get one that also blocks UV, since blocking<br />

UV does no harm and may do some good under some circumstances.<br />

-- Bob Atkins (www.bobatkins.com), October 19, 2003<br />

It would be useful to find similar information about different brands <strong>of</strong> 81B-, 81C- and 81E-type warming filters, particularly for those who live<br />

or photograph at high altitides where the blue cast in chromes is substantial.<br />

-- Conrad Smith, October 19, 2003<br />

Bob - as usual, a very well written and informative article. Thank you.<br />

I first learned how essential UV filters are when trekking in the Himalayas. Especially when photographing in the shadows, my images clearly<br />

took on a blue tinge. At altitude, a good UV filter is essential. Also, one thing that is easy to forget is that polarizer filters do not filter UV very<br />

well. And since most people unscrew their UV filters before attaching the Polarizer, I recommend one <strong>of</strong> the new Pola + UV filters, especially if<br />

you are photographing in the mountains.<br />

-- Fabian Gonzales, October 19, 2003<br />

Shadows going blue isn't always a sign <strong>of</strong> excessive UV. Shadows are normally illuminated only by the blue sky - which is <strong>of</strong> course blue - and<br />

so shadow regions tend to be blue. Often you may be better <strong>of</strong>f with a warming filter like an 812, which will block some UV as well as warming<br />

the shadows. Of course it also warms the sunlight regions.<br />

Excessive UV usually shows up as an overall blue cast in both sunlight and shadow regions - or so I'm lead to believe. I've not personally been<br />

high enough in the mountains to notice the effect very much.<br />

-- Bob Atkins (www.bobatkins.com), October 20, 2003<br />

In reference to whether UV affects digital cameras' sensors or not, I've read that UV contributes to the purple fringing we see on high-contrast<br />

photos. I have a G3 and 812 filter. Perhaps some experiments are in order. :)<br />

-- Michael Clark, October 23, 2003<br />

Odd that no one has hinted at what I understand a UV/Haze filter to be good for: filtering haze. My understanding is that atmospheric haze<br />

effects can show up in a photograph that weren't obvious in the original scene, due to UV light scattering from atmospheric haze. Since the film<br />

can respond to wavelengths invisible to the eye, we see it in the picture as haze that we didn't see when we took the picture.<br />

Am I remembering this correctly?<br />

-- Bryce JFG, October 24, 2003<br />

Agreed Bryce. As mentioned above, color variations (blue cast from no or a lousy UV filter) can be adjusted in digital post production. Haze, on<br />

the other hand, is more difficult, if not impossible to remove. I would like to see some "real world" before and after samples, esp. using the<br />

Tiffen UV Haze-1 or the Hoya equal. I have noticed a big increase in haze in landscape photos with the Canon D60 compared to using film<br />

(despite the use <strong>of</strong> L-series lenses).<br />

-- Richard Stum / Kinesis, October 24, 2003<br />

Maybe you have explained why these high altitude images are so blue.<br />

-- J. Harrington USA (Massachusetts), October 26, 2003<br />

Would you please refer to using Sky Light filter insted <strong>of</strong> UV.<br />

Eli<br />

http://www.photo.net/equipment/filters/ (9 <strong>of</strong> 12)7/3/2005 2:21:53 AM

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