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Studio Photography<br />

take some <strong>of</strong> your equipment on location.<br />

Ceiling or floor?<br />

Decide whether you want your studio to be floor-based or ceiling-based. A<br />

floor-based studio means that you have lightstands for the lights and<br />

background supports for the background. All <strong>of</strong> these supports are very<br />

lightweight because they are designed to be portable. You'll be treading very<br />

carefully and/or you'll be knocking things over.<br />

In a ceiling-based studio, you mount background rollers on the ceiling and a<br />

rail system that allow flexible positioning <strong>of</strong> lights anywhere within a<br />

rectangular area. A ceiling-based studio costs about $1000 more than a floorbased<br />

one but is a much nicer place to work in my opinion (remember that I'm<br />

6' tall, 200 lbs, and move with the grace <strong>of</strong>... an MIT student). Also, you'll still<br />

need at least some <strong>of</strong> the floor-based stuff for location work.<br />

I personally bought a Bogen rail system for my house when I had to give up my 3000 sq. ft. studio in<br />

Cambridge. It cost about $1200 and really made studio photography much more enjoyable for me. The<br />

coolest part <strong>of</strong> any rail system is the pantograph light support. These pull down from the ceiling and are<br />

cleverly counterbalanced so that they just stay wherever you leave them. You just grab a light and move<br />

it up or down an inch and it stays there. Pure mechanical design magic. As far as I know, the Bogen<br />

system (extensive brochure available from them), a FOBA system (imported by SinarBron), and the<br />

Calumet system (1-800-CALUMET) are the only rail systems available in the US.<br />

The Lights<br />

Decide what format camera you'll be using. Bigger cameras require smaller apertures to get adequate<br />

depth <strong>of</strong> field and hence more light. Decide how big your subjects are going to be. Head-and-shoulders<br />

portraits require much less light than automobiles.<br />

I don't have enough experience with hot lights to tell you how much light you need, but there are many<br />

good books for cinematographers on the subject. With flashes, 500 watt-seconds is sufficient for 35mm<br />

photography <strong>of</strong> people at full-length or 4x5 photography <strong>of</strong> tabletop subjects. Most serious studio<br />

photographers start with about 2000 watts-seconds, which is adequate for 4x5 photography <strong>of</strong> large<br />

subjects, and will rent another pack if they have to light something huge.<br />

Sunlight<br />

If you have any windows in your studio, you might be able to use the sunlight coming in. The color<br />

temperature <strong>of</strong> sunlight varies from about 2000K at sunrise to 4300K in the early morning to 5800K at<br />

high noon in midsummer. [Note: the sun streaming into a window is different from what you get if you<br />

http://www.photo.net/studio/primer (2 <strong>of</strong> 17)7/3/2005 2:18:01 AM

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