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Street Photography<br />

angle lenses have good depth <strong>of</strong> field. If your subject is 10 feet away and the lens is set for 12 feet, you'd<br />

probably need to enlarge to 20x30" before noticing the error (assuming a typical aperture). This is why<br />

the high-speed film is important. Given a fixed shutter speed, the faster the film the smaller the aperture.<br />

The smaller the aperture, the less critical it is to focus precisely. The extreme case <strong>of</strong> this is a pinhole<br />

camera, for which there is no need to focus at all.<br />

Street photographers traditionally will set the lens at its hyperfocal distance. This distance depends on<br />

the lens focal length and the aperture but the basic idea is that it is the closest distance setting for which<br />

subjects at infinity are still acceptably sharp. With fast film and a sunny day, you will probably be able<br />

to expose at f/16. With a 35mm lens focussed to, say, 9 feet, subjects between 4.5 feet and infinity will<br />

be acceptably sharp (where "acceptable" means "if the person viewing the final photograph doesn't stick<br />

his eyes right up against it").<br />

A modern alternative is to use a camera with a very high-performance aut<strong>of</strong>ocus system and a zoom<br />

lens. The Canon EOS bodies coupled with the instant-focusing ring ultrasonic motor Canon lenses<br />

(about half <strong>of</strong> the EOS lenses use these motors) are an example <strong>of</strong> what can work. Paradoxically I find<br />

that I was able to work as quickly and get as high a yield <strong>of</strong> good images (these are from Guatemala)<br />

with the Mamiya 7 rangefinder camera:<br />

http://www.photo.net/photo/street-photography (3 <strong>of</strong> 31)7/3/2005 2:18:44 AM

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