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Underwater Photography Primer<br />

reflection <strong>of</strong> light <strong>of</strong>f tiny particles suspended in the water. This problem is at its worst if the axis <strong>of</strong> the<br />

strobe is close to the lens, just like redeye above water. The solution is to move the strobe at least two<br />

feet from the axis <strong>of</strong> the lens and at a fairly sharp angle, e.g. aiming down and from the side at the<br />

subject. This is why advanced u/w photographers are seen with rigs that look like a spider crab. Some<br />

photographers don't even bother attaching the strobe to the camera (except for the synch cable). They<br />

just handhold the strobe on a long arm.<br />

This is getting long, I think I will cover a couple <strong>of</strong> other issues in another post.<br />

-- Bob Benzinger, May 25, 2001<br />

A few points on the Nikonos:<br />

You don't need a housing to get pr<strong>of</strong>essional results. Lots <strong>of</strong> pros use the Nikonos for most <strong>of</strong> their<br />

underwater shooting. The 20mm lens will get you lots <strong>of</strong> good wideangle shots. The 15 is better, but if<br />

you can't afford it, don't sweat it. The 28 is useful for longer shots <strong>of</strong> medium-sized fish. Forget the<br />

35mm lens except with the closeup kit or macro tubes. It is, however, handy for rafting, kayaking,<br />

skiing, etc. There is also an above-water-only 28mm that is no longer made. The Nikonos shines for<br />

macro and closeup work where you can set up a fixed focus, aperture, and strobe power.<br />

Models <strong>of</strong> the Nikonos:<br />

Nikonos V: This is the current model. Having been around since the 1980's, it is the only Nikonos many<br />

newer divers and photographers have ever seen. It is not, however, the only option.<br />

Advantages: Auto exposure. TTL flash. Bigger viewfinder than older models. Better sealing than the<br />

Nikonos IV (but not as good as the Nikonos III). Slightly faster flash synch speed than Nikonos III.<br />

Conventional loading and handling, i.e. you don't have to take it apart to load it.<br />

Disadvantages: If it leaks, you have a very expensive paperweight - and every underwater photographer<br />

floods a camera sooner or later. Most flooded Nikonos V's blow out the electronics beyond repair. I got<br />

a couple <strong>of</strong> milliliters <strong>of</strong> water in one once and it was gone. Nikonos guru Bob Warkentin makes desk<br />

pen sets out <strong>of</strong> flooded Nikonos V's - and he makes a lot <strong>of</strong> them. Another minor disadvantage is that<br />

you can't mount the old version <strong>of</strong> the 15mm on a Nikonos V - the rear element interferes with the TTL<br />

exposure sensor. This really isn't much <strong>of</strong> an issue anymore - if you're enough <strong>of</strong> a dinosaur to use an<br />

old-style 15, you've probably got several Nikonos III bodies to put it on!<br />

Nikonos IV: A transitional model, with flip-open back, autoexposure, no manual shutter speeds, and no<br />

TTL flash. I cannot imagine why anyone would use this POS except for snorkeling. The sealing is<br />

terrible - in an effort to make it easier to load than the early versions, Nikon used a gasket on the back<br />

rather than a true compression-type O-ring seal. It is flood-prone, and <strong>of</strong> course a flood will fry the<br />

electronics just like a V. The SB-101 aut<strong>of</strong>lash, an underpowered unit with an external sensor, is if<br />

http://www.photo.net/underwater/primer (18 <strong>of</strong> 23)7/3/2005 2:18:13 AM

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