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Underwater Photography Primer<br />

that states that the Ike housing is no good. I have to disagree. I'm sure it's not the slickest housing to use<br />

but it does the job. The shutter release is spot on and the ports are as good as any others I've seen. I'm<br />

quite pleased to have saved money on the housing to spend on extra ports and lenses.<br />

How does the housed camera compare to the trusty Nik V. For macro work it's superb. I am not stuck<br />

with one magnification, selected before getting in the water and I've no framer to scare the fish. For wide<br />

angle it's closer to call but through the lens viewing wins the day in my book. You also have the<br />

capability to use zoom lenses with the housed camera.<br />

-- Ken Byrne, November 22, 2000<br />

I just wanted to give my 2 cents worth about a previous equipment comment (you all have covered the<br />

bigger issues very well!). A previous comment about aut<strong>of</strong>ocus systems within a housing just isn't true.<br />

Aut<strong>of</strong>ocus works extremely well underwater. Color absorption has nothing to do with the aut<strong>of</strong>ocus<br />

system, it focuses based on contrast. I've been doing u/w photography for about 8 years and have had a<br />

housing for my N90s for 3+years. The only time I've had problems with the aut<strong>of</strong>ocus was when it was<br />

just too dark (can and does happen on dry land) AND I did not have my spotting light mounted on my<br />

housing. The spotting light is a flashlight which allows you to see your subject in less than ideal lighting<br />

conditions and also provides enough light for aut<strong>of</strong>ocus to work. At night I use it as my dive light.<br />

During daylight hours I estimate that I've had to use the spotting light maybe 5% <strong>of</strong> the time.<br />

Just wanted to clear this up.<br />

-- Ken Aaron, January 14, 2001<br />

A few points that haven't yet been covered, or could use some clarification:<br />

Housed Cameras: Focusing a housed camera is completely different depending on whether you are using<br />

a dome port or a flat port. A flat port reduces the included angle <strong>of</strong> the lens, but focuses just like a<br />

regular lens. A 35mm lens is more or less equivalent to a 50, etc. Most u/w photographers use a flat port<br />

ONLY for macro work. A dome port, on the other hand, does not affect the included angle <strong>of</strong> the lens, i.<br />

e. a 20mm lens under a dome port covers the same 94 degrees or whatever that it does on land.<br />

HOWEVER, the lens focuses not on the subject, but on a "virtual image" projected on the dome port.<br />

The virtual image is much closer than the real image, so you are using the close focusing capabilities <strong>of</strong><br />

the lens even if the subject is a hundred feet away (not that you are likely to get a picture at that distance<br />

anyway). So, to use a dome port you need a lens with excellent close focusing capabilities, or a screw-in<br />

closeup lens, or an extension tube. Many underwater photographers like the 24mm Nikkor because <strong>of</strong> its<br />

excellent sharpness at extremely close focus. BTW, depth <strong>of</strong> field is very high with a dome port, you<br />

hardly ever have to refocus the virtual image. I used to use a 24mm on a Nikon FE inside an old<br />

compact Tussey housing and was quite pleased with the handling and the results.<br />

Strobes and backscatter: Perhaps the biggest problem in using a strobe underwater is backscatter, the<br />

http://www.photo.net/underwater/primer (17 <strong>of</strong> 23)7/3/2005 2:18:13 AM

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