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Cleaning Cameras<br />

you did the second, and dry and polish the glass in a spiral motion from the center<br />

outwards, then discard the tissue. Always clean your lenses gently--never scrub or rub hard.<br />

If you buy some lens tissue and you can hear it crackle when you wad it up, it's too stiff<br />

and harsh for your glass, so replace it. Before I start step two (above), I put the third sheet<br />

<strong>of</strong> tissue between my left ring and pinkie finger knuckles, so that it will be at hand<br />

immediately and waterspots won't form before I can dry the glass. Finally, keep a UV or<br />

1A filter over your lens all the time for protection (I know that's elementary but I'm a true<br />

believer, having replaced the filter four times on a lens I'm still using today)<br />

-- Donald Gentz, March 1, 2001<br />

Great Lens Cleaner! Regarding optics cleaning I have not tried ROR but there seems to be<br />

some dissatisfaction with it's use in some <strong>of</strong> the comments. For forty years I have found<br />

using liquid lens cleaners to be a horrendous experience, including alcohol, those from<br />

Kodak, etc. Recently I have found a totally satisfactory cleaner that actually makes the<br />

glass look clean! No swirls, residues, etc. In fact, the claim is that it removes all previous<br />

residual cleaner comtamination as well as normal oils and accumulations. This seems to be<br />

the case in my experience and it does it without special efforts. It is called Formula MC and<br />

it's website is at the bottom <strong>of</strong> these comments. I hesitate to use microcloths as the danger<br />

<strong>of</strong> reusing their surfaces poses a danger to my $1000 lenses even thought they work<br />

remarkably well. With Formula MC they are not needed or recommended. The safe method<br />

is to use two pieces <strong>of</strong> clean, unused lens tissue, a wet and a dry one, and the job is done in<br />

a minute or so with no threat to optics. I first blow away any dust from the surface,<br />

especially the crevices so I don’t dislodge any grit while cleaning, with a can <strong>of</strong> Dust-Off<br />

or similar product and perhaps a light blow at the finish to remove tissue lint. I do a test<br />

blow away from the lens and always hold the can upright. Never shake the air can before<br />

using it! Because I take care in protecting my lens surfaces and avoid cleaning unless they<br />

get a finger smear or really need it, I haven’t had a lot <strong>of</strong> need or experience using MC but<br />

can say that when I have used it its been a pleasant experience. I might mention that in<br />

using the 2nd tissue there might be what seems as residue but this appears to be part <strong>of</strong> the<br />

cleaning process and is removed by carefully wiping it away. The lens will come out clean<br />

and free <strong>of</strong> cleaning marks.<br />

Formula MC’s site is: http://www.pecaproducts.com/mc.html<br />

As an alternative there is another cleaner that I remember reading is the <strong>of</strong>ficial one used<br />

by Hasselblad and other optics makers (possibly Leica). It is called Rexton Optyl-7. I have<br />

used it but prefer MC. I bought both these cleaners from Get Smart Products at:<br />

http://www.pfile.com/cgi/cart.cgi?db=dusters_cleaning.db&category=Dusters,+Cleaning+Supplies<br />

-- Pepe Alvarez, March 4, 2001<br />

I have lenses several years old that have never been cleaned directly. I always buy a new<br />

filter with each new lens. Upon receipt <strong>of</strong> the new lens, I immediately install the new filter.<br />

http://www.photo.net/learn/cleaning-cameras (14 <strong>of</strong> 19) [5/15/2002 7:15:53 PM]

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