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Index of Paper Presentations for the Parallel Sessions - Academy of ...

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judged. On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, Brand (1999: 4) acknowledges that non-Eurocentric cultures may not con<strong>for</strong>mto <strong>the</strong> same standards <strong>of</strong> beauty, arguing that beauty is ―...a contextual property deeply connected t<strong>of</strong>actual beliefs and moral attitudes‖. Mazur (1986: 282) concurs with this perspective and posits that―<strong>the</strong>re is no universal standard <strong>of</strong> beauty‖. The variables which denote beauty vary depending on culturalcontext (Mazur 1986). The literature reviewed in this paper identifies Eurocentric beauty, Latino andAsian-American beauty, and African-American beauty. Understanding <strong>the</strong> different perceptions <strong>of</strong> beautyis important in exploring <strong>the</strong> influences on black women in South Africa women and <strong>the</strong>ir choice <strong>of</strong>hairstyles.The Eurocentric conception <strong>of</strong> feminine beauty has evolved through <strong>the</strong> centuries with aspects <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> feminine body such as <strong>the</strong> neck, waist, breasts, hips and buttocks being accentuated or concealeddepending on what society considered desirable (Patton 2006). For example, in America, <strong>the</strong> currentlyprevailing standard <strong>of</strong> beauty is white, young, slim and tall (Patton 2006). This idea <strong>of</strong> beauty is replicatedin <strong>the</strong> <strong>for</strong>m <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Barbie doll image which Oka<strong>for</strong> (2007: 37) argues has become an image <strong>of</strong> a‗globalised beauty‘ and a demonstration <strong>of</strong> a perfect beauty by which beauty pageants appear to judge<strong>the</strong>ir contestants. It is argued that blonde white women who most closely resemble <strong>the</strong> image <strong>of</strong> Barbiehave a higher chance <strong>of</strong> winning beauty pageants and are also favoured in o<strong>the</strong>r image focused pr<strong>of</strong>essionssuch as modelling and acting (Oka<strong>for</strong> 2007). According to Johnston and Oliver-Rodriguez (1997), haircolour and hairstyle are also considered determinants <strong>of</strong> attractiveness. The Eurocentric image <strong>of</strong>beautiful hair is that which is long, straight, bouncy or silky (Patton 2006). This mass promoted image <strong>of</strong>beauty has resulted in a perception <strong>of</strong> attractiveness which is racially centred with Caucasian featuresbeing highly associated with beauty.Casanova (2004) argues that <strong>the</strong> Latino prototype <strong>of</strong> feminine beauty represents aspirations towardsCaucasian ideals <strong>of</strong> beauty. In <strong>the</strong> Latin America context, beauty is associated with light skin anddownplayed Latino attributes which almost resemble Caucasian features; except unlike Barbie, a morevoluptuous body is regarded as attractive (Casanova 2004). Asian-American beauty holds <strong>the</strong> samestereotypical image <strong>of</strong> attractiveness according to Kaw (1993) whose work reveals an increasing number<strong>of</strong> Asian-American women using eye and nose surgery to acquire ―...a feminine look considered moreattractive by society‖ (Kaw 1997: 81). This ―attractive look‖ refers to a narrow Caucasian nose and widereyes. For Asian-Americans and Latinas, <strong>the</strong> predicament with achieving <strong>the</strong> Eurocentric norms <strong>of</strong> beautyare not as great as those faced by black women, whose dark complexion and kinky textured hair sets <strong>the</strong>mcompletely apart from o<strong>the</strong>r races in terms <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir closeness in resembling <strong>the</strong> Barbie doll image.Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> literature regarding black women‘s beauty perceptions is in <strong>the</strong> context <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> African-American woman. Patton (2006: 26) argues that black women deal with <strong>the</strong> constant pressure ―...to meeta beauty standard that is inau<strong>the</strong>ntic and <strong>of</strong>ten unattainable...‖ But Casanova (2004) contends that blackwomen are not overly-concerned about thinness compared to <strong>the</strong>ir white counterparts. Similarly, Webb,Looby and Fults-McMurtery (2004) argue that African-American men favour <strong>the</strong> heavier or larger bodyfigure, although <strong>the</strong>re are signs that this perception may be changing to con<strong>for</strong>m to <strong>the</strong> dominantEurocentric orientation. To a greater extent, <strong>the</strong> media favours African-American women whose standard<strong>of</strong> beauty is almost indistinguishable from <strong>the</strong> iconic white image as <strong>the</strong> black body image hastraditionally been besmirched (Patton 2006). Patton (2006) fur<strong>the</strong>r contends that because not all African-American women are concerned with meeting <strong>the</strong> Eurocentric beauty standards, <strong>the</strong>y create <strong>the</strong>ir ownstandards <strong>of</strong> beauty which make <strong>the</strong> most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir unique characteristics, resulting in creative hair styling,<strong>for</strong> example. This notion <strong>of</strong> making do with what <strong>the</strong>y have is also acknowledged by Parker et al. (1995)who found that <strong>the</strong> perception <strong>of</strong> beauty by African-Americans was flexible due to <strong>the</strong>ir recognition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>inapplicability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> white stereotype <strong>of</strong> beauty or <strong>the</strong> Barbie image to <strong>the</strong>mselves.The issue <strong>of</strong> hairstyling is particularly fascinating in that <strong>the</strong> texture <strong>of</strong> black hair lends itself tomany <strong>for</strong>ms <strong>of</strong> manipulation to achieve various styles. Black women‘s hairstyles may involve chemicallystraightening <strong>the</strong> hair in order to achieve <strong>the</strong> flowing silky texture similar to that <strong>of</strong> Caucasian hair. Thehairstyles may also require <strong>the</strong> extensive use <strong>of</strong> hair extensions which can be artificial or natural hairfibres which are applied to <strong>the</strong> scalp or natural hair. The majority <strong>of</strong> African-American women do notmaintain <strong>the</strong>ir natural hair but employ <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> relaxers, heat appliances, and oils to achieve <strong>the</strong> desired

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