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Index of Paper Presentations for the Parallel Sessions - Academy of ...

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The third most predominant reason <strong>for</strong> using hair extensions identified by <strong>the</strong> respondents is <strong>the</strong>need to protect <strong>the</strong>ir natural hair (Tables 5 and 6). Citing <strong>the</strong> damage caused by chemical hair relaxers andby heat styling accessories, <strong>the</strong> women indicated that <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> hair extensions helps prevent fur<strong>the</strong>rdamage and also allows <strong>the</strong>ir hair to recover and grow. This claim is affirmed by Khumalo (2005) whoposits that <strong>the</strong> spiral nature <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> follicle makes African hair susceptible to damage when <strong>the</strong> hair issubjected to daily grooming. On <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, twisting hair into dreadlocks allows it to achieve greaterlengths as it is does not suffer from <strong>the</strong> damage caused by frequent combing (Khumalo, 2005). From thisdiscussion, it is fair to infer that keeping hair under a weave or in braids allows it to grow by preventingbreakage due to frequent grooming. Ironically however, Khumalo et al. (2007) reveal that <strong>the</strong> prevalence<strong>of</strong> traction alopecia is more common in hair kept in braids and extensions than in natural hair withoutbraids. There<strong>for</strong>e, <strong>the</strong> women in this survey may be preserving <strong>the</strong>ir hair from damage caused by frequentcombing, but on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hand, inadvertently bringing damage to <strong>the</strong>ir hair through traction fromextensions which may cause more damage than from natural long hair.CONCLUSION AND MANAGERIAL IMPLICATIONSThe purpose <strong>of</strong> this article was to assess <strong>the</strong> factors that influence black women in South Africa touse hair extensions. The study <strong>for</strong> this article sought to address two specific questions namely a) Is <strong>the</strong> use<strong>of</strong> hair extensions by black women in South Africa a symptom <strong>of</strong> self-hatred or de-Africanisation? and b)Is <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> hair extensions by black women in South Africa a symptom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir desire to con<strong>for</strong>m tomodernity and consistent with <strong>the</strong>ir value priorities? The study found that <strong>the</strong> respondents, 90% <strong>of</strong> whomwere aged below 36 years and over 85% <strong>of</strong> whom had used hair extensions in <strong>the</strong> preceding three months,ranked braiding and weaving (long/straight) styles higher than <strong>the</strong>y did natural hairstyles such as patternedplaits and uncombed afros. The predominant reason <strong>for</strong> using extensions according to <strong>the</strong> majority <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>respondents had more to do with <strong>the</strong> perceived low maintenance requirements <strong>of</strong> hair extensions. This wasreemphasised by over 77% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> respondents agreeing with <strong>the</strong> statement that ―I find hair extensioneasier to manage than natural hair‖. However, some respondents did allude to using hair extensions toenhance <strong>the</strong>ir looks and <strong>for</strong> variety and fashion, witness over 51% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m agreeing that ―Hair extensionsmake me look more beautiful‖. The least preferred hairstyles <strong>the</strong> natural hairstyles and <strong>the</strong> weaving(long/bouncy).The findings did not support <strong>the</strong> self-hatred hypo<strong>the</strong>sis as <strong>the</strong> main factor that influences hairstylechoices. O<strong>the</strong>r factors, especially low maintenance requirements were more important as influencers <strong>of</strong>hairstyle choices than factors relating to beauty enhancement. More than any o<strong>the</strong>r reason, that blackAfrican women are chose to use hair extensions primarily because <strong>of</strong> styling convenience. The implication<strong>of</strong> this is that marketing and business people in <strong>the</strong> sector may need to place more emphasis on benefitso<strong>the</strong>r than beauty enhancement in <strong>the</strong>ir strategy development in order to avoid overlooking <strong>the</strong> needs <strong>of</strong>some segments. These segments include those whose core need is <strong>the</strong> convenience <strong>of</strong> hair extensions.Consistent with previous studies, <strong>the</strong> respondents prioritised self-transcendence values. This wasfollowed by openness to change values, which suggested <strong>the</strong> respondents were not motivated by <strong>the</strong> desireto conserve <strong>the</strong> status quo and <strong>the</strong> certainty in <strong>the</strong>ir social environments but by <strong>the</strong> desire to pursue <strong>the</strong>irown interests. The respondents were <strong>the</strong>re<strong>for</strong>e likely to pursue new ideas about hairstyling ra<strong>the</strong>r than betied down to tradition. The prioritisation <strong>of</strong> openness to change values suggests that <strong>the</strong> aspiration <strong>for</strong>modernity could have influenced hairstyle choices.Besides value priorities, o<strong>the</strong>r factors that lend support to <strong>the</strong> modernity hypo<strong>the</strong>sis include <strong>the</strong>respondents‘ ascription <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir use <strong>of</strong> extensions to beauty enhancement and variety and fashion. This isnot surprising in light <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> well documented convergence <strong>of</strong> consumer needs and wants due toglobalisation. However, an interesting observation emerging from this discussion is that in addition tobeing influenced by and adopting Caucasian-inspired hairstyles, <strong>the</strong> women incorporate <strong>the</strong>se withAfrican-inspired styles to create styles that straddle <strong>the</strong> two sources <strong>of</strong> influence. The two braiding stylesthat were highly ranked by <strong>the</strong> respondents reflect this blend <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> two sources <strong>of</strong> influence.This study contributes to dispelling some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> myths surrounding <strong>the</strong> reasons <strong>for</strong> black Africanwomen‘s fondness <strong>for</strong> hair extensions. Whilst some researchers ascribed black women‘s alteration <strong>of</strong>natural looks to feelings <strong>of</strong> insecurity and aspiration to con<strong>for</strong>m to white beauty standards, this study did

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