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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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154 Conservation of Furniture<br />

copal resins (Gettens and Stout, 1966) and thus<br />

it is unclear whether amber, copal or another<br />

unknown resin were actually used in this<br />

recipe.<br />

Evelyn goes on to describe the method of<br />

application. <strong>Wood</strong> is to be prepared clean and<br />

smooth. Any defects are to be filled with a<br />

paste made from gum tragacanth mixed with<br />

an appropriate coloured pigment. Once flaws<br />

had been filled the wood was then to be given<br />

a coat of the varnish. Instructions are given for<br />

the preparation of coloured varnish; red from<br />

cinnabar, black from a mixture of calcined<br />

ivory and green copperas (verdigris) and blue<br />

from ultramarine. Red or black coloured varnish<br />

was prepared by mixing one part colour<br />

with seven parts varnish. Four coats of<br />

coloured varnish were applied with drying<br />

time between coats and then rubbed down<br />

with Dutch rushes (Dutch rushes or Dutch reed<br />

was obtained from members of the<br />

Equisitaceae, the Horsetail family of jointed<br />

ferns, whose stems contain large amounts of<br />

silica). This application of four coats could be<br />

repeated up to four or five times to give a total<br />

of up to twenty-four coats of coloured varnish.<br />

The final layer of coloured varnish was<br />

smoothed with Tripoli powder and either olive<br />

oil or water on a felt pad. Over the coloured<br />

varnish, two coats of a modified clear varnish<br />

without sandarac (possibly to decrease the brittleness)<br />

were given and into this gold decoration<br />

was applied. The gold was obtained by<br />

filing or cutting fine gold wire of the type used<br />

by embroiderers. Coloured details could be<br />

added to this before the whole was coated<br />

with an unspecified number of layers of clear<br />

varnish sufficient to render the surface ‘like<br />

polished glass’. Final polishing was done with<br />

Tripoli powder, oil and felt.<br />

Stalker and Parker (1688) provides detailed<br />

technical instruction for the manufacture and<br />

decoration of varnished surfaces and over a<br />

hundred patterns in the ‘Indian’ style with<br />

which to decorate them. So comprehensive<br />

were the instructions that the treatise became<br />

the definitive description of the japanning<br />

process for amateurs, being either plagiarized<br />

or reproduced with minor alterations in subsequent<br />

texts for the following fifty years. The<br />

success of the book would have been dependent<br />

on the success or failure of the efforts of its<br />

readers and thus it is likely that the authors<br />

simplified the range of equipment, materials,<br />

recipes and techniques to ensure that the<br />

application of the Japan varnish was as<br />

straightforward as possible.<br />

Pear wood, close grained, free from knots,<br />

smooth and clean, was recommended as a substrate<br />

for japanning. However, as supplies of<br />

this fruitwood were limited it was often applied<br />

as a veneer. Lime and walnut presented good<br />

alternatives, whilst oak and deal were more<br />

problematic as they required priming with<br />

‘plaisterers Size’ to fill the grain and smooth the<br />

surface before japanning could begin. Stalker<br />

and Parker were aware of the problems caused<br />

by a thick priming layer and recommended<br />

that such layers be well rubbed down ‘thin and<br />

smooth and even’. An alternative preparation<br />

suitable only for ‘the tops of tables and boxes’<br />

was a mixture of animal glue and sawdust<br />

which needed to be scraped flat when dry.<br />

Although Stalker and Parker lay out general<br />

rules for varnishing, they describe three distinct<br />

processes depending on the colour desired.<br />

First, for blacks and reds, seed lac varnish<br />

mixed with pigments was recommended for<br />

both ground and top varnish. Secondly, for<br />

white and blue, a ground of pigment in isinglass<br />

secured with best ‘white’ (i.e. transparent)<br />

varnish was recommended as a means to avoid<br />

the discoloration that would occur with gumlac.<br />

Thirdly, for chestnut and olive grounds,<br />

pigment in common glue size secured with<br />

seed-lac varnish was used. In every case a<br />

highly reflective surface, which imitated<br />

Oriental lacquer, was the desired outcome.<br />

Lampblack was recommended for black<br />

grounds. For red grounds, vermilion was used<br />

in one of three variations; on its own for<br />

‘Common’ red japan ground; glazed with<br />

dragon’s blood in seed lac for dark red<br />

grounds and mixed with white lead for pale<br />

red grounds. Blue grounds were achieved with<br />

smalt and white with flake white applied over<br />

a white (gesso) ground based on calcium carbonate<br />

and isinglass. For chestnut grounds, a<br />

mixture of Indian red or brown ochre with lead<br />

white and lamp black was used. For olive<br />

grounds English pink (a yellow lake derived<br />

from a dye extracted from buckthorn berries)<br />

was mixed with lamp black, lead white and<br />

raw umber as required.<br />

Seed-lac varnish is recommended by Stalker<br />

and Parker in seven out of nine of their recipes

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