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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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materials is their photochemical stability. They<br />

do not yellow and discolour, they remain<br />

removable in non-polar solvents and can be<br />

distinguished from original materials. All are<br />

suitable for brush or spray application. It has<br />

been argued, however, that such materials,<br />

particularly the high molecular weight synthetics,<br />

do not replicate the original appearance.<br />

Modern varnish manufacturers may produce<br />

furniture finishes that are a blend of traditional<br />

and modern materials. One example of a hardwearing<br />

varnish that can be applied using<br />

French polishing technique is called table top<br />

polish (John Myland Ltd, UK), which contains<br />

shellac, nitrocellulose and ‘some synthetic<br />

resins’. This coating does not crosslink and<br />

may be reversed in ketones and esters.<br />

Adhesion of other coatings applied on top of<br />

table top polish is often poor. Such coatings<br />

may be applied on top of a traditional French<br />

polished finish if a full grain surface is<br />

required, as it is can be difficult to abrade<br />

once the surface has dried.<br />

13.7.2 Traditional materials<br />

Wax<br />

Wax has been used since antiquity as a protective<br />

coating and imparts a soft sheen. It may<br />

be applied directly to the wood or over an<br />

extant surface coating. A wax coating is not<br />

appropriate if a varnished surface is heavily<br />

crazed or fragile. Wax layers tend to be thin,<br />

photochemically stable, slightly acidic, easily<br />

removed from varnished surfaces, have low<br />

permeability to moisture and may help prevent<br />

scratching of lower resinous coatings during<br />

dusting. The properties of wax are discussed<br />

in Chapter 4 and in conservation literature<br />

including Horie (1992) and Mills and White<br />

(1994). Abercauph (1998) has tabulated the<br />

physical properties of some commercially<br />

available animal, vegetable, mined and microcrystalline<br />

waxes.<br />

Sheraton (1803) refers to the use of beeswax<br />

in combination with other materials including<br />

pigment and copal varnish. Other historical<br />

sources refer to the use of beeswax mixed<br />

with colophony resin. Walch (1997) has<br />

suggested, however, that the use of wax to<br />

impart a ‘satin sheen’ to restored furniture can<br />

be traced to a late nineteenth century<br />

aesthetic. Such treatment, applied uniformly to<br />

Conserving transparent coatings on wood 629<br />

furniture from different periods and with total<br />

disregard for historical accuracy, has continued<br />

throughout the twentieth century and may still<br />

be seen in many antique shops and auction<br />

rooms.<br />

Beeswax is usually the primary constituent<br />

of wax furniture polishes. Although beeswax<br />

has a melting point around 65 °C it softens at<br />

37 °C and as a result handling tends to leave<br />

the surface marred with smears and fingerprints.<br />

Harder waxes may be added to<br />

improve the working properties of a wax<br />

polish, most notably carnauba wax which has<br />

a melting point of around 84 °C but is very<br />

brittle. Furniture polishers often prepared their<br />

own wax polishes using beeswax, carnauba<br />

wax and turpentine with the addition of finely<br />

ground pigment or oil stain. Modern tubed<br />

artist’s pigments are used by some to colour<br />

the contemporary mix as these are finely<br />

ground and already thoroughly wetted by their<br />

oil media. The proportion of beeswax to<br />

carnauba varies but the higher the proportion<br />

of carnauba added, the more effort is required<br />

to buff the polish to a soft and even sheen,<br />

and the more brittle the final wax coating. The<br />

proportion of carnauba wax may be varied<br />

between 10% and 15% to produce a slightly<br />

harder-wearing polish that is still easy to buff.<br />

The proportion of solvent may vary between<br />

roughly 50% to 60% depending on the desired<br />

consistency of the final paste. The wax paste<br />

may be prepared by melting shavings or<br />

blocks of wax in a double boiler, removing<br />

from the heat when melted and then adding<br />

colouring material (if required) and solvent. A<br />

soft thin paste may be made by adding one<br />

part carnauba wax, three parts beeswax and<br />

six parts solvent, whilst a proportion of 1:2:3<br />

of these ingredients will produce a harder,<br />

thicker wax paste for a more durable wax<br />

finish. Turpentine was the traditional solvent,<br />

though because this solvent contains turpenes,<br />

which may leave insoluble polymerized<br />

residues, many conservators prefer to use<br />

white spirits or mineral spirits.<br />

Proprietary formulations may include soft<br />

cheap waxes such as paraffin as extenders and<br />

solvents vary from turpentine to white spirit,<br />

xylene or toluene. It is not always necessary<br />

to clean a wax surface before applying a fresh<br />

coating, since the application of a wax paste<br />

partially dissolves the extant dirty material.

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