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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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applying fresh polish before pulling over to<br />

ensure a flat finish.<br />

Once the surface has been levelled and has<br />

hardened off it may be dulled down using fine<br />

pumice or similar abrasive powder. Some<br />

polishers sprinkle a little powder onto the<br />

surface and use a good quality bristle shoe<br />

brush, working along the grain, to dull the<br />

surface. Others recommend placing the pumice<br />

into a flat container, dampening a cotton pad<br />

with linseed oil, and using the pad to pick up<br />

a little powder, which is then worked in even<br />

strokes along the grain (Oughton, 1982). Still<br />

others recommend working over the surface<br />

with fine (0000) wire wool sometimes adding<br />

a little wax paste to lubricate the surface<br />

(Hayward, 1988). It should be noted that<br />

French polishing was popular because it<br />

produced a glossy surface. Dulling the surface<br />

down is not an essential part of the process<br />

and may be inappropriate in some cases.<br />

Glazing<br />

Glazing was used as a cheap alternative to<br />

French polishing and was used to impart finish<br />

with a high shine without an extended<br />

bodying up procedure. It was often used on<br />

carved, pierced or fretted surfaces and could<br />

be used in the corners of polished panels<br />

where it was difficult to create a smooth shiny<br />

surface by french polishing. Glaze was made<br />

by dissolving gum benzoin in methylated<br />

spirits (50/50 v/v). The benzoin was crushed,<br />

placed in a jar with the methylated spirits and<br />

shaken intermittently over a period of a few<br />

days. When the benzoin had dissolved the mix<br />

was strained to remove detritus. Hayward<br />

(1988) recommends diluting the benzoin until<br />

it is similar in colour to champagne. Glaze<br />

could be applied using a polishing rubber<br />

although strokes should not overlap and a<br />

period of about five minutes was needed<br />

between successive coats. Glaze could also be<br />

applied using a brush or dabbed on with a<br />

sponge (Oughton, 1982).<br />

13.8 Craquelure, crazing and<br />

crocodiling<br />

A byproduct of the ageing process of a transparent<br />

coating is a fine network of cracks<br />

known as craquelure. Craquelure may<br />

Conserving transparent coatings on wood 637<br />

contribute to the patina of an aged surface and<br />

enhance the object’s aesthetic or monetary<br />

value. Crazing describes the excessive cracking<br />

of a varnished surface, such that the surface<br />

below appears disfigured or obscured. Landrey<br />

(1984) has described the treatment of a crazed<br />

surface finish with abrasives. Crocodiling<br />

describes excessive shrinkage of a varnish layer<br />

that results in the varnish contracting into small<br />

islands, exposing the surface beneath. This<br />

effect may also be called alligatoring or traction<br />

crackle. Any material that results in a difference<br />

in drying rate between the surface of a varnish<br />

and the body or interior of this layer will<br />

produce some degree of cracking. The more<br />

exaggerated the difference, the more extreme<br />

the result. Thus thick oil or oil–resin varnish<br />

layers that incorporated excess driers are<br />

(a)<br />

(b)<br />

Figure 13.15 Crocodiling<br />

(a) Crocodiling on a decorative component from a bed<br />

tester. The original red japanning was overpainted black<br />

in the nineteenth century. A second red overpaint has<br />

been applied over the crocodiled black layer. Accretions<br />

of dirt accentuated the crocodiled appearance. (b) An<br />

example of severe crocodiling on a road sign

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