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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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654 Conservation of Furniture<br />

lost through gessoing. Italian recutting tends to<br />

be much looser than English work, and much<br />

of the rounded appearance that results from<br />

the use of gesso sottile was deliberately kept.<br />

It is important that a gilder gain as much<br />

knowledge as possible about the appropriate<br />

recutting of a given style before undertaking<br />

the recutting of a repair to a period object.<br />

Having an authentic model to copy of a very<br />

similar object from the same period, country<br />

and level of sophistication is the best way to<br />

ensure a faithful interpretation and an appropriate<br />

recutting scheme for reproduction<br />

pieces. The study of recutting may also be<br />

helpful in determining if an object that is not<br />

presently gilded was originally meant to be<br />

gilded. If, for example, there are very fine<br />

details carved into the wood that would be<br />

completely filled in by the gesso, it is a good<br />

indication that the object was not made to be<br />

gilded because those details would only have<br />

been added at the recutting stage. Craftspeople<br />

in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries did<br />

not repeat lengthy operations unnecessarily.<br />

In general, recutting falls into the two<br />

categories of either redefining work that was<br />

highly detailed in the wood or completely<br />

reworking the gesso layer with elaborate detail<br />

that was not put into the initial carving. The<br />

first is characteristic of English and Italian<br />

work whilst the French excelled at the second.<br />

Some carving was very highly finished in the<br />

wood to minimize recutting. The gesso on this<br />

kind of work was relatively thin and the recutting<br />

limited to sharpening the outlines and<br />

flutes that became clogged with gesso. This<br />

type of recutting was executed with the same<br />

tools and techniques used for carving the<br />

wood. Examples of this can be seen on some<br />

English Georgian parcel gilt mirrors. It may be<br />

reproduced by gently smoothing the high<br />

points of the gesso with a fine grade abrasive<br />

paper (320 grit). The outlines of the leaves and<br />

ornament are redefined using carving tools and<br />

fine decorative detail, such as fluting, are then<br />

carved in. Surface texturing in the gesso, such<br />

as hassling, is the last step.<br />

Some carving was roughly carved in the<br />

wood, aiming only to give a base for a thick<br />

layer of gesso. Sufficient gesso was applied so<br />

that extensive working of the surface was<br />

possible without cutting back to the wood.<br />

This type of recutting suited the very fine and<br />

intricate surface decoration typical of much<br />

eighteenth century French work. As with gesso<br />

sottile, the recutting was defined and then the<br />

fine fluting and other detail added. A characteristic<br />

of French work is the extensive decoration<br />

worked into the ground. After the<br />

ornamental detail has been finished the<br />

ground is smoothed and fine crosshatching,<br />

diamonds or hassling may be added.<br />

Recutting is the most challenging of the<br />

gilding operations and was traditionally the<br />

responsibility of the most skilled and highest<br />

paid gilder in a workshop. The finest recutting<br />

displays deftness, sureness of hand and<br />

spontaneity. Skilled recutting requires not only<br />

an understanding of historical techniques and<br />

design, but a great deal of practice. It is essential<br />

to practice recutting on a gessoed board<br />

before undertaking a restoration project. The<br />

cutting edge of the hook should be held as<br />

near as possible to the end with one hand (for<br />

maximum control), placing the other hand on<br />

the handle and pulling the tool (Figure 14.6).<br />

Moistening the gesso will make it easier to<br />

carve, but it must not be soaked so much that<br />

the gesso becomes damaged. Sharp tools are<br />

essential. The hardness of the gesso will affect<br />

recutting – if the gesso is too hard the strokes<br />

will be wavy and difficult whilst if the gesso<br />

is too soft the recutting will lack crispness.<br />

Once the recutting and smoothing are<br />

complete the loose particles of gesso must be<br />

removed from the surface. Work should be<br />

ragged if necessary and the recut areas<br />

examined to see if the outlines need to be<br />

softened. If so, they may be carefully ragged<br />

with shaped pieces of wood wrapped in cloth.<br />

Figure 14.6 Recutting a gesso repair

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