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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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454 Conservation of Furniture<br />

Steel or wire wool is inappropriate for<br />

smoothing uncoated wood because it tends to<br />

leave metal particles behind. The combination<br />

of steel wool and moisture will cause staining<br />

on woods with any significant tannic acid<br />

content. Steel wool comes in a numerical grading<br />

from 4 (coarse) to 0000 (very fine) and is<br />

often coated with oil- or silicone-based lubricants<br />

by the manufacturer to retard rusting.<br />

Lubricant-free grades are generally used in<br />

furniture conservation. A range of nylon abrasive<br />

pads is available from 3M.<br />

Burnishing the surface or exposed edges of<br />

a repair, which compresses the upper wood<br />

fibres, may assist blending it in with the<br />

surrounding original material. A wooden<br />

burnisher with a concave or convex shape may<br />

be useful. The inside curve of a gilder’s<br />

dogtooth agate burnisher is particularly effective<br />

on arrisses, where sanding will produce a<br />

crude and inaccurate approximation of historical<br />

wear. If the outer face of an agate<br />

burnisher is used, it will need professional<br />

repolishing before it can be used on gilded<br />

surfaces. Burnishing can result in a more<br />

reflective and faceted surface, a markedly<br />

different effect from a surface that has been<br />

abraded. The nature of the surface being<br />

matched will determine whether this is appropriate.<br />

Burnishing should be tested on a scrap<br />

piece of wood to see if it gives the desired<br />

effect and to ensure that it will not inhibit<br />

subsequent stain or finish. Although abrasion is<br />

often the most efficient and reliable way to<br />

prepare a new surface, burnishing may aid in<br />

rendering an appropriate surface texture and is<br />

particularly useful on arrisses and irregular<br />

shapes. Burnishing creams, paste and powders<br />

should not be used on unfinished or opengrained<br />

timber because they will lodge in the<br />

grain, may be difficult to remove completely<br />

and may interfere with subsequent coatings.<br />

10.2 General techniques<br />

10.2.1 Dismantling furniture<br />

Dismantling furniture may be quick and straightforward<br />

or very slow and complicated, depending<br />

on the looseness of the relevant joints,<br />

previous attempts to compensate for loose joints<br />

such as nails or screws, and the complexity of<br />

the joints used. Unless the joints in the object<br />

are already uniformly loose, it is possible that<br />

the process of dismantling may cause further<br />

damage. The decision whether to dismantle may<br />

take into consideration fitness for intended use,<br />

potential vs. actual damage both now and in the<br />

future, balancing minimum intervention against<br />

the need for a satisfactory repair or the need to<br />

separate components to achieve a satisfactory<br />

adhesive bond.<br />

The first step is to assess which joints are<br />

loose, whether the object needs partial or total<br />

disassembly, or whether disassembly will be<br />

likely to cause excessive damage and an alternative<br />

must be found. Joints in chairs may be<br />

tested for soundness by grasping the base of<br />

chair legs attached by a single rail and flexing<br />

them slightly, towards each other and then<br />

apart. Loose joints are indicated by movement<br />

along the line of the joint. Each joint should be<br />

tested in the same manner. This technique can<br />

be applied to most objects with a frame<br />

construction (characterized by the use of<br />

mortise and tenon joints). Loose joints in box<br />

construction (characterized by the use of dovetail<br />

joints) will manifest itself in racking of a<br />

carcase or by flexing individual joints. A single<br />

slightly loose joint may be acceptable in a<br />

museum object but may present a hazard in<br />

domestic use.<br />

If a decision is made to dismantle and there<br />

is any potential for confusion about the position<br />

of any component, each should be<br />

marked clearly before proceeding. Masking<br />

tape may be used on non-presentation surfaces<br />

to mark the parts of each joint with corresponding<br />

numbers. When working with circular<br />

components it may be necessary to use<br />

register marks or tape to ensure the pieces are<br />

returned to the correct position. It may also be<br />

necessary to record the original geometry of<br />

components using templates and diagrams.<br />

Whatever method is chosen the conservator<br />

should ensure marks can be removed after<br />

reassembly without damage to any surface<br />

finish that may be present.<br />

Chairs can present problems when the shape<br />

of the seat has no 90° corner or the angle of<br />

each corner is slightly different. It is important<br />

to record these angles to ensure that the seat<br />

will return to its original shape when it is<br />

reassembled, especially if it incorporates a<br />

drop-in or slip-seat. A simple solution is to

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