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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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14.2.12 Yellow ochre<br />

A coat of size pigmented with yellow ochre<br />

was applied to a carved surface that was to<br />

be gilded. This wash was intended to disguise<br />

any recesses or undercutting that may be<br />

inaccessible during gilding so that they would<br />

not be noticeable. Traditionally, yellow ochre<br />

mixed with size was used for this purpose but<br />

modern gilders often omit this step and rely<br />

on the yellow bole instead.<br />

A stock preparation of yellow ochre may be<br />

made by immersing some yellow ochre in<br />

water so that, with time, the grit in the<br />

pigment will sink to the bottom of the<br />

container. The wet yellow ochre should be<br />

taken from the top of this stock solution and<br />

mixed with a pre-prepared 6–8% rabbit skin<br />

size (15:1–12:1 v/v water:glue granules). Avoid<br />

the sediment at the bottom because it is too<br />

thick and may contain grit. The amount of<br />

pigment used is not critical but should be<br />

sufficient to colour the work in one application.<br />

The size and yellow ochre mix should be<br />

warmed in a double boiler and, if a large area<br />

is to be covered, left in the double boiler to<br />

ensure it remains hot. The yellow ochre and<br />

size should be applied hot (around 55 °C) to<br />

ensure that the colour reaches all the depths<br />

of the carving and recutting. The yellow size<br />

should flow on fluidly and easily and should<br />

not need to be worked in with the brush. A<br />

long-haired hog’s-hair brush large enough to<br />

cover the work quickly should be used. Do<br />

not expect the finished colour to be uniform;<br />

overlaps in colour do not matter so long as<br />

no ridges form. The colour should be more<br />

concentrated in the depths and hollows of the<br />

carving where it is needed most.<br />

14.2.13 Bole<br />

Bole is a coloured clay applied onto the gesso<br />

before gold leaf is applied. The platelet structure<br />

of the clay, in combination with the<br />

cushioning effect of the underlying gesso<br />

layers, allows the gold leaf laid over it to be<br />

burnished to a high sheen. In addition, the<br />

bole layer partly seals the gesso layer and<br />

prevents free absorption of the size water into<br />

the gesso layer below. The use and choice of<br />

clay colour applied as a foundation for the<br />

gold leaf has a great effect on the colour and<br />

Introduction to traditional gilding 655<br />

lustre of the finished work. Matching and<br />

using the correct clay colours is of the utmost<br />

importance, because the colour of the bole<br />

will affect the final appearance of the gold. It<br />

is essential that the gilder is aware of the<br />

intended subtleties of semi-burnished, matte<br />

and burnished areas before applying the clay.<br />

Bole comes in many colours and is sold<br />

either pre-mixed with water or, in a more<br />

limited range of colours, in dry lumps or cone<br />

form. Modern clays are manufactured from<br />

kaolin (pipe clay) combined with a colouring<br />

agent (usually ground earth pigments) and<br />

water and may contain additives such as dyes,<br />

lanolin or glycerine and preservatives (Thorn,<br />

1987). Any grit in the bole will cause lumps<br />

and scratch the gold leaf when it is being<br />

burnished.<br />

Many gilders prefer to use proprietary bole<br />

that has been ground and pre-mixed with<br />

water. Others prefer to start with the dry clays<br />

or cones. A stock solution may be prepared<br />

from dry clay or cones by grinding the clay<br />

into very small particles using a mortar and<br />

pestle and mixing with water to form a thick,<br />

unctuous paste. The paste should be strained<br />

once or twice through a fine nylon stocking<br />

to remove grit and lumps, and placed in a<br />

glass jar. This stock solution may then be used<br />

in the same manner as proprietary wet clays.<br />

Any clay has a limited shelf life once the glue<br />

size has been added.<br />

Colours in common use are yellow, red,<br />

white, black and blue. Most traditional clay<br />

colours can be achieved by blending these<br />

basic colours and if necessary by adding a<br />

small amount of an appropriate pigment.<br />

Some pigments, such as terre verte, will give<br />

a gritty finish and are therefore inappropriate.<br />

Traditional bole varied in burnishing properties<br />

depending on the colour. Yellow bole<br />

burnished poorly and was used for the<br />

background, red burnished well and was used<br />

on highlights whilst Victorian black could be<br />

highly burnished and was used on isolated<br />

areas of highlighting. English clay could not<br />

be burnished without the addition of graphite<br />

and English burnish clay was made by mixing<br />

equal parts of clay and mutton suet with a<br />

small amount of graphite (Wetherall, 1992).<br />

Bole may be prepared by warming enough<br />

pre-prepared rabbit skin size to cover the<br />

surface of the work three or four times. The

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