Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

(a)
(b)
Figure 10.21 Marking out dowel joints. Although only
one joint is illustrated, it is usual to use a minimum of
two dowels to prevent movement in the joint
(a) Proprietary dowel pins. A hole is bored into one
part of the joint, the dowel pin inserted. The second
component is aligned and tapped lightly against the
dowel pin. (b) The head of a metal pin used to mark
both sides of a dowel joint simultaneously. A small dot
of paint can be used in the same way
together so that each is marked (Figure 10.21).
Small dots of paint, e.g. a red acrylic emulsion,
may be used in a similar way. Alternatively, a
fine pin may be tapped a few millimetres into
one component, the end nipped off leaving
about 3 mm of the pin protruding. The second
component is then aligned with the first, and
tapped lightly against the protruding pin.
Wood repairs let into the surface of wood
usually rely solely on the adhesive bond.
Selecting wood for repair has been outlined
earlier in this chapter but the minimum
requirement is that the piece used for repair
should match the orientation of the original
(i.e. transverse, radial), its appearance and
reflective properties. In the case of a small or
irregular loss that requires a new piece to be
laid into the surface, acetate may be used to
trace off the outline of the damage, which is
then transferred to the surface of the wood to
be used for the repair. Depending on the situation,
the repair may be matched to the
Principles of conserving and repairing wooden furniture 469
damage or made slightly oversize. In either
case it is planed flat on the underside though
it may be thicker than required and levelled
after the repair has been glued into place. The
shape of the repair piece may need to balance
the best aesthetic integration with minimal loss
of original material.
The traditional way of approaching this type
of repair was to cut the repair piece so that it
was slightly oversize. It was then laid over the
area of damage and the outline marked onto
the surface using a fine marking knife or
scalpel. Unwanted material was pared away
from the original. The scored line provided an
exact position for the last stroke of the chisel.
It is important that the area below the repair is
absolutely level and a power or traditional hand
router was often used for this purpose. Angles
on the repair piece were compatible with the
available tools – excessively acute angles are
very difficult to level. The repair was then glued
into place and levelled flush with the surrounding
surface without damaging or removing adjacent
original surface finish or wood. Although
this method provides an excellent fit for a
wood-in-wood repair, it is possible that future
repairs to the same area can extend the loss of
original material. Alternatives include the use of
fills, or building up the edge of a loss with a
carvable epoxy, to allow the patch to be let in
without removing original material. Materials
that may be suitable for non-structural repairs
to wood are discussed in section 12.3.1. The
range of materials used in the past has been
reviewed by Thornton (1998a).
Mechanical wear caused by the action of
moving furniture parts can be treated if necessary.
The primary criterion for conservation is
whether the object is stable and whether
further damage will occur as a result of leaving
it untreated. In the past drawer runners have
been turned around or replaced in objects that
were still in use. An alternative is to replace
worn areas of runners and drawer sides with
fresh wood, keeping as much of the original as
possible. In contrast to domestic furniture, that
in museum collections is not usually in use and
this type of wear may remain untreated. Other
mechanical parts, such as poorly fitting doors,
may cause further wear or damage and therefore
require treatment. When a door on a pivot
hinge is worn out, for example, a washer may
be sufficient to lift the door up.