23.03.2013 Views

Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

Thus conservation grade materials may be<br />

used for retouching or for isolating layers,<br />

whilst traditional materials may be used to<br />

provide harder wearing, or more aesthetically<br />

acceptable surfaces. Whilst the need for<br />

accurate documentation is widely accepted in<br />

the conservation profession, it is particularly<br />

important if different materials are used for<br />

isolating, retouching and coating layers.<br />

Careful selection of materials can allow future<br />

conservators to remove a discoloured upper<br />

coating without disturbing retouching below.<br />

Although easel painting conservators avoid<br />

the use of shellac as a retouch medium because<br />

of its tendency to yellow, shellac has been the<br />

retouching binding media of choice for many<br />

generations of furniture restorers. Thin coats of<br />

shellac dry rapidly and each successive layer<br />

partially dissolves and fuses with the preceding<br />

layer, a property that is exploited in French<br />

polishing. In spite of this, a touch-dry layer of<br />

shellac is not immediately dissolved when a<br />

subsequent coat is applied. As a result, successive<br />

coats do not cause reticulation in lower<br />

layers. Shellac-bound colourant, sealer coats<br />

and varnish may be applied with a brush,<br />

French polishing rubber or sprayed – the latter<br />

two methods tend to produce a thinner and<br />

flatter surface. It is possible to work in very thin<br />

layers, for both coloured glazes or sealer coats,<br />

using a French polishing rubber. Although<br />

shellac discolours more rapidly than dammar or<br />

mastic, it forms a hard wearing durable film.<br />

The apparent lack of concern from furniture<br />

restorers about the substantial and relatively<br />

quick yellowing of shellac may be a result of<br />

its durability in use combined with the fact<br />

that the wood itself is subject to colour change<br />

as a result of photochemical oxidation. Thus<br />

by the time the shellac retouch had yellowed,<br />

the background to which it was originally<br />

matched had itself altered. Since the aim of<br />

modern conservation is to limit such photochemical<br />

change of the wood by excluding or<br />

limiting exposure to UV, retouching often<br />

requires a longer stable lifespan than was<br />

previously the case. The use of shellac as a<br />

retouching medium may cause problems for<br />

the survival of adjacent original or early transparent<br />

coatings. Shellac is chemically complex<br />

and may partially crosslink, making the whole<br />

more resistant to organic solvents after around<br />

150 years (Horie, 1992).<br />

Conserving transparent coatings on wood 625<br />

Applying pigments<br />

Powdered pigments may be applied in an<br />

opaque layer to obscure the wood or other<br />

filler below or may be thinly dispersed in a<br />

binder and applied as wash. Pigments with<br />

extremely small particle size, such as microlith<br />

pigments (Ciba–Geigy), have made it easier to<br />

achieve a translucent wash. A comparatively<br />

small palette is required for matching most<br />

wood. Such a palette might include flake or<br />

Chinese white, yellow ochre, raw sienna,<br />

chrome yellow (or its equivalent), burnt<br />

sienna, Venetian red, raw umber, light umber,<br />

burnt umber and lamp black. Many furniture<br />

conservators also use proprietary artist’s water<br />

colours. Whilst some furniture conservators<br />

use the conservation grade materials described<br />

in section 12.3.2, others may choose to isolate<br />

the adjacent surface and use a shellac binder.<br />

Furniture restorers often used powder<br />

pigments in a shellac binder. The process<br />

involved using a scrap of used abrasive paper<br />

folded into a cone into which a small amount<br />

of shellac was poured, diluted with a small<br />

amount of methylated spirits. Dry pigment<br />

powder was mixed into the resin at the tide<br />

edge of the shellac. Whilst there is no doubt<br />

this method is convenient, the pigments are not<br />

well ground and may not be well integrated into<br />

the varnish (i.e. particles may not be thoroughly<br />

wetted). The pigment:binder ratio will inevitably<br />

vary, sometimes from stroke to stroke. Though<br />

more consistent results may be achieved by<br />

mixing pigment and resin on an artist’s palette,<br />

the rapid evaporation of the alcohol binder<br />

made this unsuitable for shellac based paint.<br />

If pigment has been as a base coat, colour<br />

and tone may be adjusted using transparent<br />

glaze layers. Pigmented or transparent glazes<br />

may be used to simulate bands of colour. The<br />

last step may be simulating the pores or grain<br />

of the wood. This may be difficult using<br />

pigments. A thick Vandyke brown, made up<br />

to the consistency of a paste, is particularly<br />

effective for this purpose and can be applied<br />

in extremely fine lines. The technique<br />

described below for sealing water stain<br />

between sealer coats should be used to ensure<br />

the fine detail is not removed or disturbed.<br />

Applying stains<br />

Stains, by definition, are translucent materials.<br />

They may be used to adjust the colour and

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!