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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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solvent creeping behind or underneath the<br />

surface of the glass that is being cleaned. The<br />

frame or surround should be protected from<br />

cleaning solutions; Melinex/Mylar may be<br />

inserted into the rebate between the glass and<br />

frame for this purpose. Aqueous or solvent<br />

cleaning should be avoided if the glass is<br />

cracked because dirt will be drawn into the<br />

cracks by capillary action. The traditional<br />

method of cleaning glass was to add a little<br />

vinegar or ammonium hydroxide to water.<br />

Raising pH slightly, with a drop of ammonium<br />

hydroxide, will saponify grease and oil and<br />

make it water-soluble. A cleaning solution<br />

with an excessively high pH may attack the<br />

silica in the glass. Consideration should be<br />

given to the potential for damaging adjacent<br />

materials or finishes if pH is adjusted. A pH<br />

of 5.5–8.5 is broadly accepted as safe for many<br />

organic surfaces. Adding a drop of a non-ionic<br />

detergent (e.g. Triton XL-80N) will also assist<br />

in bringing oil and grease into solution but as<br />

detergents are non-volatile, a clearance procedure<br />

will be necessary (see section 11.5.4).<br />

Wiping over the surface with a swab<br />

dampened with deionized water should be<br />

sufficient to remove detergent residues from<br />

glass. Solvent cleaning may utilize IMS,<br />

acetone, 50/50 water and IMS, or white spirit.<br />

Proprietary window cleaning products should<br />

be avoided because the constituents are often<br />

unknown. Spray application is inappropriate<br />

because of the risk of damage from the<br />

inevitable overspray. Proprietary abrasive<br />

pastes generally contain particles of alumina<br />

or silicon. These abrasives are not suitable as<br />

they are too hard and will scratch the glass. A<br />

home made paste may be made from whiting<br />

and deionized water, to which a drop of dilute<br />

ammonium hydroxide may be added if necessary.<br />

15.5.8 Cleaning mirrored and decorated<br />

glass<br />

Painted and gilded surfaces that are well<br />

adhered may be cleaned with a soft brush and<br />

vacuum cleaner. Gilded glass has usually been<br />

water gilded and aqueous cleaning should<br />

therefore be avoided. The use of solvents with<br />

a hydrogen-bonding component, such as<br />

alcohol, should also be minimized. Davison<br />

and Jackson (1985) have considered the<br />

Conserving other materials I 709<br />

conservation of reverse painted glass and<br />

mirrors. Caldararo (1997) discussed the treatment<br />

of paintings on ceramics and glass.<br />

Tin/mercury surfaces should not be<br />

vacuumed because the mercury will be vaporized<br />

and expelled into the ambient environment<br />

where it will present a health hazard. A<br />

soft brush, used only for mirrored surfaces and<br />

stored in a plastic bag, may be used to lightly<br />

brush over the surface. Mercury may be<br />

collected using a mercury salvage kit (e.g.<br />

Chemizorb Hg, available through Merck) and<br />

disposed of in accordance with current guidelines<br />

or legislation. Mercury sponges are not<br />

recommended for use on mercury amalgam<br />

surfaces as they are not particularly effective<br />

for this application and may cause damage.<br />

Silvered surfaces are usually sealed with paint<br />

and, if well adhered, may be vacuumed.<br />

15.5.9 Repair of glass<br />

Cracked or broken glass should be referred to<br />

a specialist for repair and adhesive bonding.<br />

Such treatments are difficult and require<br />

experience and skill. A glass conservator may<br />

be able to cast infills or readhere chips using<br />

techniques developed for vessel glass,<br />

although such treatments are usually only justified<br />

for small areas on very valuable mirrors<br />

(Jackson, 1984). Whilst reproduction glass is<br />

available from a few specialist companies, it is<br />

difficult to match the replacement to the<br />

original. Bevelling and cutting complex shapes<br />

was previously done by hand. Copying it is<br />

often beyond the skill of glaziers and may<br />

require the skills of a glass conservator. Repair<br />

of painted, gilded or mirrored glass presents<br />

additional difficulty, as there is the potential<br />

that adhesive used to bond the glass may<br />

creep between the glass and the painted or<br />

mirrored surface, disfiguring it.<br />

15.5.10 Consolidation<br />

Flaking on painted, gilded or mirrored surfaces<br />

should be referred to a specialist with experience<br />

of painted glass, as the association of<br />

these materials can present particular<br />

problems. The decorated surface itself is often<br />

complex, a wide variety of binding media may<br />

have been used and problems are often<br />

complicated.

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