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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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690 Conservation of Furniture<br />

magnification, taking care to remove rust<br />

without scratching the surface (Figure 15.9).<br />

This technique is very time-consuming. Larger<br />

scale problems, for example tubular steel<br />

furniture on which the whole finish has been<br />

affected, may require the use of mild abrasives<br />

such as talc, fuller’s earth or jeweller’s rouge.<br />

The removal of abrasive particles after treatment<br />

is often problematic and residues are<br />

potentially visually obtrusive. Proprietary<br />

products such as Autosol are not recommended<br />

as they often contain particles that are<br />

large, excessively coarse and may leave deep<br />

scratches.<br />

Fine (0000) wire wool has been recommended<br />

for the removal of corrosion products<br />

from ferrous metals (CCI Notes 9/6, 1995).<br />

Fine wire wool is a comparatively harsh<br />

abrasive but can be effective for removing<br />

rust, particularly if the corrosion is softened up<br />

by soaking in aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent<br />

(e.g. Stoddard solvent, petroleum benzine) or<br />

penetrating oil (e.g. WD-40). Wire wool may<br />

find application for large scale corrosion, for<br />

example the removal of rust from the underside<br />

of an object, but will obliterate any fine<br />

detail, tends to leave a surface covered with<br />

fine scratches and will round over sharp<br />

edges. It is used in combination with a light<br />

mineral oil, residues of which may be<br />

removed with solvent. Some steel wool is<br />

coated with silicone-based lubricants that can<br />

cause subsequent problems with coatings, so<br />

conservators generally use lubricant-free<br />

grades. Stainless steel wool could also leave<br />

chromium and other trace metals on surfaces,<br />

which could confuse instrumental analysis.<br />

Dry brushing will remove loose flakes and<br />

may utilize a watchmaker’s bristle brush or a<br />

medium hard toothbrush. In some cases a<br />

swab and solvent such as petroleum spirits or<br />

alcohol may be successful, though the<br />

presence of coatings that may be damaged by<br />

the solvent should be ruled out first. If solvent<br />

splashes will not damage the surrounding<br />

area, a brush may also be used.<br />

Air-abrasive methods may find occasional<br />

application for ferrous components of furniture.<br />

Various grits are available for different<br />

jobs requiring more or less removal and<br />

delicacy. Organic grits of corn-cobs and<br />

walnut shells are most gentle, but do not<br />

remove tightly adhering corrosion. Glass bead<br />

‘peening’ may be useful for parts such as<br />

screw threads where appearance is not an<br />

issue and complete corrosion removal and<br />

smooth functioning is important.<br />

Rust converters<br />

Rust converters may be used to treat lightly<br />

corroded historic iron. These chemicals<br />

convert unstable corrosion products into more<br />

stable iron compounds. The most common are<br />

phosphoric acid and tannic acid. The<br />

compounds formed are bonded to the surface<br />

of the metal by an irreversible chemical<br />

reaction. Ethical debate on the use of rust<br />

converters has centred on the change in<br />

appearance and the appropriateness of such a<br />

non-original layer chemically bonded to the<br />

surface. The decision whether to use a rust<br />

converter must balance these factors against<br />

the probability of removing all corrosion<br />

products and the environment to which an<br />

object will be returned. Commercial rust<br />

removers usually consist of citric and orthophosphoric<br />

acids with passivating agents such<br />

as amines (hexamine) to prevent them from<br />

aggressively etching uncorroded metal.<br />

Although rust converters can be applied selectively,<br />

the effect can be visually disruptive. The<br />

use of tannic acid on surfaces that have been<br />

painted black is an exception to this – loose<br />

flakes of corrosion can be picked off and the<br />

tannic acid then applied. Binnie et al. (1995)<br />

tested a range of rust converters for ferrous<br />

objects displayed outdoors.<br />

Phosphoric acid can remove corrosion<br />

products and additionally forms a stable<br />

phosphate layer that resists corrosion. The<br />

conversion products from phosphoric acid are<br />

more stable than those produced by tannic<br />

acid. Phosphoric acid is often a component in<br />

metal primers. The light grey appearance of<br />

treated metal is often considered unsightly. It<br />

is often used as the first stage in a treatment,<br />

followed by the application of lacquer or<br />

paint. Acidic rust removers based on hydrochloric<br />

acid or phosphoric acid, thickened<br />

with cellulose ethers, are called naval jellies.<br />

Tannic acid forms a stable black irontannate<br />

layer (Logan, 1989). Tannic acid effectively<br />

converts and passivates light corrosion,<br />

and the black colour is often in harmony with<br />

blacksmithed objects. Tannic acid does not<br />

penetrate or react with an uncorroded surface,

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