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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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(a)<br />

(b)<br />

(c)<br />

Figure 13.6 The use of grain filler. (a) Scanning<br />

electron microscopy (SEM) photomicrographs of unfilled<br />

and uncoated mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla): rough<br />

areas are a result of poor preparation. (b) SEM<br />

photomicrographs of unfilled and uncoated mahogany<br />

(Swietenia macrophylla): this well-prepared surface will<br />

take stain and varnish more evenly than that illustrated<br />

in (a). (c) SEM photomicrograph of grain-filled<br />

mahogany. The filler is a proprietary linseed oil-based<br />

material<br />

Conserving transparent coatings on wood 621<br />

nineteenth and early twentieth century mahogany<br />

furniture.<br />

The method of application varies with the<br />

filling material chosen. Paste fillers, proprietary<br />

or home made, are applied using a coarse<br />

cloth and working the filler first along the<br />

grain, then across the grain. When the grain<br />

has been filled, the bulk of the excess is<br />

removed across the grain, because working<br />

along the grain will simply dislodge the filler<br />

from the wood pores. The filler should be left<br />

until almost dry and then the surface wiped<br />

along the grain with a lint-free rag, barely<br />

moistened with solvent if necessary, to remove<br />

the excess. Grain filler left on the surface will<br />

obscure the figure of the wood. When the<br />

filler is completely dry, the surface can be<br />

lightly denibbed with 240 or 320 grit paper<br />

and the surface is then ready for the next<br />

finishing process.<br />

Proprietary oil-based fillers offer as much as<br />

30 minutes’ working time and may take one<br />

or two days to fully set. They tend to saturate<br />

the substrate but may be slow to cure and may<br />

darken over time. Water-based fillers tend to<br />

dry much more quickly and this can offer an<br />

advantage for the integration of small repairs.<br />

While acrylic fillers are likely to be more stable<br />

and set quickly, their saturating properties may<br />

be a little less satisfactory. Either type can be<br />

effective and manufacturer’s instructions<br />

should be followed. Proprietary fillers may be<br />

purchased pre-coloured but may also be toned<br />

with pigments. As with other colour matching<br />

processes, it is helpful to use a test piece to<br />

decide whether they are appropriate for colour<br />

matching a given repair.<br />

Dilute glue size has been used as a grain<br />

filler in preparation for a varnish, and could<br />

be pigmented to adjust the tone of the wood.<br />

In some cases a small amount of a drying oil<br />

was added to the size. Parchment size or<br />

isinglass were recommended for the purpose.<br />

Fiedler and Walch (1997) have observed different<br />

fluorescence of such layers in comparison<br />

to the hide/animal glue used as a wood glue.<br />

When dry, the surface was worked with a<br />

cabinetscraper or abrasive paper. The surface<br />

could be treated this way two or three times.<br />

When the grain had been filled and excess<br />

removed, the surface was varnished.<br />

Traditional oil-based recipes for grain fillers<br />

include a mixture of linseed oil and dry

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