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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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Figure 13.7 Proprietary shellac sticks<br />

softened shaving can then be pressed into<br />

position. Excess shellac is removed with a<br />

sharp chisel or a scalpel after it has hardened.<br />

Buttons of shellac can be used in the same<br />

way and may be particularly useful for midto<br />

dark brown timbers such as unbleached<br />

European walnut.<br />

Beaumontage was prepared by the<br />

craftsperson by mixing equal parts of<br />

beeswax, crushed rosin (colophony), a little<br />

shellac and pigment as required (Hayward,<br />

1988). The ingredients were heated together<br />

and when cooled were similar in consistency<br />

to sealing wax. It was applied and levelled in<br />

the same way as stick shellac. Bennett (1990)<br />

recommends a similar stopping made with<br />

shellac, a small amount of beeswax and<br />

powdered pigment. The shellac or rosin<br />

content will make both these fill materials<br />

brittle.<br />

Pigmented wax can be purchased from a<br />

supplier of traditional wood finishing materials<br />

or made up as required. As with most traditional<br />

finishing materials, recipes vary. Filler<br />

sticks can be made from either 100% beeswax<br />

or a little carnauba (10–15%) can be added to<br />

raise the melting point slightly, though this will<br />

also increase brittleness. They can be made in<br />

any colour by adding powdered pigments<br />

(Figure 13.8a). The ingredients are heated<br />

gently, mixed and allowed to cool. No solvent<br />

is included as this would only lead to shrinkage<br />

of the wax fill after it had been applied.<br />

A shaving of the filler stick can be heated on<br />

a palette knife and pressed into place. Small<br />

pieces of pigmented beeswax can be softened<br />

in the hand and worked into small defects on<br />

the surface of the wood. The wax can be<br />

(a)<br />

(b)<br />

Conserving transparent coatings on wood 623<br />

Figure 13.8 Wax fills: (a) a range of proprietary and<br />

home made wax filler sticks; (b) Perspex and wood<br />

tools for levelling wax fills<br />

levelled using a piece of Perspex or a wood<br />

block with a bevelled edge (Figure 13.8b).<br />

Shellac will adhere to small areas of wax but<br />

adhesion may prove problematic for other<br />

surface coatings.<br />

Animal/hide glue, mixed with sawdust or<br />

other bulking agents, has been used as a grain<br />

filling material in the past. Animal/hide glue<br />

remains reversible in water, but animal gluebound<br />

fillers are prone to shrinkage as they<br />

dry and are unstable if exposed to fluctuations<br />

in RH. Proprietary PVAC wood glues, such as<br />

Resin W (UK), are not suitable for use as fill<br />

binders unless an isolating layer is used.<br />

Conservation grade materials such as<br />

Paraloids, PVAC and PVAL combined with<br />

inert filler, such as microballoons, and<br />

coloured with pigments, may also be used as<br />

stoppings and fillers. They can be levelled<br />

with a scalpel or chisel and can be inpainted<br />

with water colours or dry pigments in a PVAC<br />

binder. These materials, discussed in section

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