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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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668 Conservation of Furniture<br />

Ivory may be cleaned using the dry cleaning<br />

methods described in section 11.2.4. A<br />

traditional method using dilute hydrochloric<br />

acid to clean ivory is known to strip the<br />

mineral component from the ivory, eroding the<br />

surface, opening cracks and causing increased<br />

hygroscopicity. Matienzo and Snow (1986)<br />

demonstrated that immersion in toluene can<br />

cause an increase in the concentration of<br />

organic material on the surface but observed<br />

that ethanol and acetone caused no noticeable<br />

change. Aromatic hydrocarbon solvents should<br />

be avoided, though as yet the effects of<br />

aliphatic hydrocarbons have not been quantified.<br />

Given the hygroscopic nature of ivory and<br />

bone, non-aqueous methods for the removal of<br />

surface dirt, such as a swab slightly dampened<br />

with white spirit, ethanol or acetone may be<br />

preferable. In some cases, however, the most<br />

efficacious method for removing dirt is a swab<br />

slightly dampened with saliva or deionized<br />

water. Care should be taken to avoid dimensional<br />

distortion by minimizing contact with<br />

water. Some sources recommend a contact<br />

time of fifteen or twenty seconds followed by<br />

immediately drying the surface (CCI Notes<br />

6/1). Solvent mixtures which combine white<br />

spirit, acetone and water may also be effective.<br />

Whilst a soft brush may remove dust and dirt<br />

from the surface, embedded dust, wax and<br />

accretions of dirt may be more difficult to<br />

remove, particularly when the surface of the<br />

ivory is damaged or cracked. Poulticing (see<br />

section 11.6) may be effective in such cases.<br />

Cracks in ivory veneer may be partial or run<br />

through the whole thickness of veneer. In<br />

cases where ivory veneer is already loose,<br />

lifting the veneer completely may give better<br />

access for cleaning. Patience may be required<br />

to avoid causing further damage. Water is<br />

often used to soften residual adhesive, though<br />

isopropyl alcohol may be used if there is no<br />

risk of damaging adjacent materials or surface.<br />

Partial cracks may be cleaned using a mediumsoft<br />

brush and solvent. Poultices may be used<br />

to remove deep accretions of wax.<br />

Staining<br />

Whilst yellowed ivory that has been kept in<br />

the dark may be whitened by simple exposure<br />

to light, removal of other stains, such as rust<br />

or copper stains, ink or previous use of<br />

adhesives such as animal glue or shellac may<br />

be more problematic. Darkened residues of<br />

animal glue may have penetrated into the<br />

body of ivory and the problem is usually<br />

exacerbated with porous bone. Oils, both<br />

drying (e.g. linseed) and non-drying (e.g.<br />

almond) may have been applied in the past<br />

to saturate the surface and produce a low<br />

sheen. Oiling ivory is no longer considered an<br />

acceptable conservation practice. Whilst<br />

almond oil can usually be removed with white<br />

spirit, linseed oil that has darkened and<br />

crosslinked may be more problematic.<br />

The first step in the treatment of such stains<br />

is to decide whether stain removal is desirable.<br />

Many stains are considered of value because<br />

they contribute to patina, an appearance of<br />

age or evidence of history of use. Stain<br />

removal is often very difficult. Excesses of the<br />

past have led to a general presumption against<br />

bleaching because of the difficulty of keeping<br />

such treatments localized, their irreversibility<br />

and the inherently chemically destructive<br />

nature of the process. Occasionally localized<br />

bleaching may be undertaken, though care<br />

must be taken to avoid the formation of a<br />

bleached halo around a stained area. Inlay to<br />

be bleached is usually removed from the<br />

substrate to increase the effectiveness of the<br />

treatment (stain are often taken up from the<br />

verso side) and to avoid damaging adjacent<br />

material. Bleach should be carefully applied to<br />

the affected area only. Hydrogen peroxide<br />

may be used though it is not combined, in this<br />

instance, with a base such as ammonia or<br />

sodium hydroxide (see Bleaches under section<br />

13.5.3). Progress should be checked regularly<br />

and the action of the bleach may be noticed<br />

within fifteen to thirty minutes or longer.<br />

Sodium hypochlorite bleaches should not be<br />

used as they have been associated with<br />

yellowing of ivory weeks or months after the<br />

treatment and because they degrade to sodium<br />

chloride, giving rise to the potential for salt<br />

damage.<br />

Some success has been reported in removing<br />

metal stains with chelating agents (Rao and<br />

Subbaiah, 1983). There is a possibility that<br />

chelating agents may attack mineral components<br />

of the ivory. Conditional stability<br />

constants should be considered in relation to<br />

pH and the sensitivity of the ivory or bone to<br />

excessively acidic or alkaline conditions (see<br />

section 11.5.5).

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