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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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synthetic materials, such as Paraloid B72, or<br />

acrylic emulsions or dispersions, in low<br />

concentrations (2–5%). Current literature on<br />

the treatment of matte paint should be<br />

consulted in cases where there is a high<br />

pigment volume concentration and a comparatively<br />

weak bond between the paint and<br />

ivory. Inks, sometimes found on ivory from<br />

the Indian subcontinent and the Far East, may<br />

be soluble in water or white spirit and require<br />

a cautious approach.<br />

Coatings<br />

Ivory has the ability to take a high polish. In<br />

cases where ivory is undecorated, a thin<br />

microcrystalline wax layer is generally sufficient<br />

as a coating. LaFontaine and <strong>Wood</strong><br />

(1982) found Cosmolloid 80H was a more<br />

effective barrier to fluctuations in RH than<br />

Renaissance wax. In some cases varnish may<br />

be necessary to match original material.<br />

Antler<br />

Antler has often been incorporated into furniture<br />

with minimal change from its natural<br />

appearance. In most cases surface finishes<br />

were not used. If dusting with a brush is insufficient,<br />

dry cleaning methods (section 11.2.4)<br />

or water with a drop of detergent may remove<br />

accretions of dirt, though care should be taken<br />

not to flood the surface. The uneven surface<br />

often found on antler may require the use of<br />

a medium-hard stiff brush. White spirit may be<br />

used to remove greasy material.<br />

Repair and replacement<br />

Cracks running along the length of the antler<br />

are not uncommon, particularly on the tynes.<br />

These may be filled using a bulked adhesive<br />

though it is essential that the fill material is<br />

flexible. Splits in antler may widen and curl<br />

away from the axis. This may be remedied by<br />

steaming and binding. Direct application of<br />

steam, which may be done in situ, softens the<br />

antler and allows the split component to be<br />

bound closed. When the antler has cooled and<br />

dried, usually within 24 hours, the split is then<br />

adhered.<br />

Losses are usually replaced with antler,<br />

which may be acquired from venison producers.<br />

Alternatives include wood or casting<br />

replacement pieces. The hollow core requires<br />

the use of a fitted dowel to attach the replace-<br />

Conserving other materials I 671<br />

ment. The dowel and adhesive should be<br />

reversible and compatible with original and<br />

replacement material. The dowel may be made<br />

to fit the hollow in the antler, or the hollow<br />

may be filled and the dowel pushed into place<br />

or the fill drilled after it has dried.<br />

A tinted wax may be applied if a coating is<br />

necessary, though in most cases antler is left<br />

unfinished.<br />

15.1.2 Turtleshell and horn<br />

Tortoiseshell is actually from marine turtles,<br />

particularly the Hawksbill turtle, and in the<br />

following section is therefore referred to by<br />

the more accurate term turtleshell. Turtleshell<br />

and horn are hygroscopic materials. The<br />

combined effects of photochemical degradation<br />

and accretions of dirt leads to loss of gloss<br />

as they age. As with many other surfaces and<br />

materials associated with furniture, turtleshell<br />

and horn may have been treated with oil in<br />

the past. Degradation of such oils often<br />

contributes to a poor appearance. Horn may<br />

be prone to delaminate in conditions of low<br />

RH, though this problem may also be associated<br />

with over-processing at the time of<br />

manufacture.<br />

Cleaning<br />

Surface dirt is usually effectively removed<br />

using a slightly dampened swab, whilst white<br />

spirit may be used to remove waxy accretions.<br />

Consolidation<br />

Loose turtleshell or horn that is not completely<br />

detached may be consolidated using fresh<br />

slightly thinned animal glue, rabbit skin glue<br />

or fish glue. If pieces are sufficiently loose, a<br />

warmed artist’s palette knife may assist, otherwise<br />

it will be necessary to use a syringe or<br />

to gently massage the loose veneer to draw the<br />

adhesive underneath. Bubbles in turtleshell are<br />

particularly common in the thin shell used on<br />

nineteenth century pieces. Fresh glue may be<br />

worked under the bubble and then cramped<br />

down. If the original glue is not severely<br />

degraded, in some cases a combination of<br />

water and methylated spirits (3:1) may be sufficient<br />

to reactivate it. In cases where the paper<br />

used under the turtleshell has delaminated, it<br />

may be consolidated with isinglass or another<br />

suitable adhesive. Turtleshell may become

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