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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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758 Conservation of Furniture<br />

surface between layers. Sometimes the clear<br />

varnish applied over the painted or gilded decorative<br />

layer is the one to separate. The<br />

approach to consolidation must take into<br />

account which layer of the japanned object is<br />

in need of consolidation.<br />

Collagen glues such as rabbit skin glue,<br />

gelatin, or fish glues have been traditionally<br />

used in the repair of japanned objects when<br />

the gesso ground layer has delaminated from<br />

the substrate. The glues penetrate to the<br />

ground well, and since they shrink as they dry,<br />

the bond between the lifting flake and the substrate<br />

is quite good. However, water-based<br />

adhesives may cause blooming of the varnish<br />

layers. The risk of bloom increases as the pH<br />

of the adhesive rises, or with prolonged exposure<br />

of the surface to heat and moisture.<br />

Solutions from 2% to 5% have been used to<br />

successfully consolidate japanned ground layers.<br />

Different protein based glues can be used<br />

for different objects. Paler adhesives such as<br />

isinglass or gelatin can be used enough to consolidate<br />

light japanned pieces, where there is a<br />

danger that darker collagen adhesives may<br />

cause a colour change.<br />

Synthetic adhesives such as emulsions or dispersions<br />

based on PVAC or acrylics are discussed<br />

in section 12.2.4. If such materials are<br />

used to consolidate the ground layer, the particular<br />

adhesive should be chosen with particular<br />

attention to long-term stability and<br />

flexibility. Acrylics are generally weaker and<br />

more flexible than PVAC (Down et al., 1996)<br />

and may therefore be more appropriate in this<br />

context. Resolubility is also an important consideration.<br />

Ideally the dried consolidant should<br />

be resoluble in a solvent that does not affect<br />

either ground or varnish layers, such as aromatic<br />

hydrocarbons. Those that are resoluble<br />

only in water or very polar solvents such as<br />

acetone are inappropriate for use on japanned<br />

surfaces.<br />

Paraloid B72 and Paraloid B67 have been<br />

used successfully over the past few decades in<br />

the consolidation of japanned surfaces and are<br />

a popular choice because of their excellent<br />

ageing characteristics. These are best used for<br />

separation between the varnish layers. Paraloid<br />

B72 should be used in situations where it is not<br />

left on the surface because it can impart an<br />

unnatural plastic appearance. Paraloid P67 has<br />

an appearance closer to those found on japan-<br />

ning. Since both B72 and B67 can be dissolved<br />

in a number of solvents, it is possible to<br />

choose a medium that does not affect the surface.<br />

Hydrocarbon and aromatic solvents are<br />

good choices. When mixing either acrylic, the<br />

percentage should be kept fairly low. Several<br />

applications of 2% are better than a single<br />

application of 10%. The low concentration will<br />

aid penetration and prevent an unnecessary<br />

build up on the surface. Ideally one should<br />

have little or no consolidant remaining on the<br />

surface.<br />

16.7.6 Infilling<br />

Fills for grounds<br />

When filling losses to japanned surfaces it is<br />

better to consider the ground layers and the<br />

varnish layers separately. To ensure reversibility<br />

of any of the fills listed below one should<br />

isolate the substrate from the fill with a readily<br />

soluble material before proceeding. One must<br />

remember that the fill should be weaker than<br />

the original surface. Should the wooden substrate<br />

move, it is better that the fill fall out than<br />

cause more damage to the original surface.<br />

Traditional gesso fills of rabbit skin glue and<br />

calcium carbonate are appropriate for the<br />

ground layers since they are similar to the original.<br />

Barium sulphate can be added to the<br />

gesso to ensure that the fill can be identified as<br />

non-original. Before filling, the area surrounding<br />

the loss should be consolidated and the<br />

surface protected with a removable varnish. A<br />

very weak pigmented gesso can be used for a<br />

very fragile surface with numerous losses<br />

(Ballardie, 1994). For deeper losses, gesso<br />

dough is preferable to several applications of<br />

liquid gesso. This prevents the damage to the<br />

japanning from excess exposure to moisture.<br />

The combination of PVAL and whiting can<br />

be used instead of the traditional rabbit skin<br />

glue gesso. Since the PVAL can be applied easily,<br />

dries fast and also can be burnished to a<br />

very smooth finish, it seems a good candidate<br />

for use as a fill in japanning (see section<br />

12.3.1). As with any fill material, care should be<br />

taken not to expose the surface of the japanning<br />

to this material. Webb (1998a) reported<br />

the use of 6% PVAL in water, whiting and dry<br />

pigments to infill losses on a late seventeenthcentury<br />

cabinet in the Royal Ontario Museum<br />

collection.

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