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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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Table 10.3 Abrasives – continued<br />

ness 3 or less by a copper coin. A harder<br />

material will scratch and wear away a softer<br />

one – the greater the difference between the<br />

two materials the more pronounced the effect<br />

will be. The properties of common abrasives<br />

can be found in Table 10.3. The Knoop<br />

Hardness Scale is a series of values arrived at<br />

by an indenting instrument. It is more accurate<br />

than the Mohs scale, but many abrasive particles<br />

are too small to be tested this way.<br />

Abrasives work by scoring the surface – the<br />

larger and harder the particles the deeper are<br />

these score lines. On wood, it is essential to<br />

work abrasive papers along the grain so that<br />

the lines scored into the surface are parallel<br />

with the grain. Sanding marks across the grain<br />

will be visible on raw timber, through any<br />

transparent finish that is applied, and will take<br />

up a disproportionate amount of any stain that<br />

is applied directly to the wood. It is necessary<br />

to work through the grades of paper (i.e. 80,<br />

100, 120, 150, 180) so that each removes the<br />

score lines left by the previous and replaces it<br />

with progressively shallower lines, parallel to<br />

the grain, which become imperceptible to the<br />

eye on a wooden surface at about 180 grit. Grit<br />

sizes of 240 and above are appropriate for<br />

denibbing or abrading transparent finishes. The<br />

score lines that may be present on original<br />

surfaces may be used to identify the abrasive<br />

material – the deep and parallel lines left by<br />

Dutch reeds, for example, are quite distinctive.<br />

Principles of conserving and repairing wooden furniture 453<br />

Group Abrasive name and Hardness Sizes Notes (names given in brackets are<br />

composition Mohs Knoop available trade names)<br />

Charcoal<br />

and ash<br />

Organic<br />

abrasives<br />

Horsetails: Equisetum<br />

hyemale, ‘Dutch rush’ or<br />

‘shave grass’ is a hollow<br />

reed-like plant with nodes<br />

and a silaceous cuticle<br />

Shark skin<br />

used as fine abrasives. Holzapffel stated<br />

that elder-wood charcoal was used by<br />

engravers to polish plates. Lamp black in<br />

brick form, called ‘satin rouge’, has been<br />

used to polish silverware. Fine ash of<br />

various types has been used as a final<br />

polish for gemstones. Rice chaff ash has<br />

been used as a final polish for Oriental<br />

lacquer<br />

Dried and tied up in bundles, horsetails<br />

have been used to polish scagliola,<br />

plasterwork and meerschaum. Small,<br />

flattened sections of the cuticle have been<br />

used by gilders to polish gesso and bole.<br />

The rough sandpaper-like skins have been<br />

used as an abrasive for wood, especially<br />

in Asia and Oceania, but also in Europe<br />

Hand sanding will be necessary for most<br />

conservation work but it is possible that there<br />

may be situations where machine sanding is<br />

appropriate. There are several types of power<br />

tool sanders available but the defining factor in<br />

both cabinetmaking and conservation is that<br />

the abrasive action is parallel to the grain. Belt<br />

sanders may produce a satisfactory finish but<br />

those with a circular motion, such as disc<br />

sanders and orbital sanders, will produce<br />

surface defects similar to those found when<br />

hand sanding across the grain.<br />

All sanding involves generating fine particles<br />

of wood dust. Prolonged exposure to wood<br />

dust has been connected to nose and throat<br />

cancer as well as lung complaints. Measures<br />

should be taken to collect dust as it is generated<br />

and the use of personal protective equipment<br />

such as dust masks is essential. In some<br />

countries, for example in the UK, control of<br />

wood dust in the workplace is subject to<br />

government legislation. All dust must be<br />

removed from the surface of the wood before<br />

any finishing process commences.<br />

The process of using abrasive papers<br />

compresses the grain. It may be necessary to<br />

raise the grain by wetting the surface and<br />

allowing it to dry before using 180 grit paper<br />

on the roughened surface. It may be necessary<br />

to repeat this process a second time if a bleach<br />

or water stain is to be applied directly to the<br />

timber.

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