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Series editors' preface - Wood Tools

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similar fabric is stretched across the surface of<br />

the marquetry. A brush coat of neoprene (polychloroprene)<br />

glue is applied and allowed to<br />

dry for about twenty minutes. An iron or heat<br />

gun is used, at around 50–60 °C, to soften the<br />

original adhesive and, with the use of spatulas,<br />

the surface is removed in one piece. Old adhesive<br />

is removed from the underside of the<br />

marquetry and the substrate. The procedure<br />

outlined above for boulle is repeated and the<br />

neoprene glue removed using ethanol. This<br />

method may be adapted for boulle, in which<br />

case a pressure sensitive tape that resists deformation<br />

below 60 °C may be substituted for the<br />

neoprene. Care must be taken to use minimal<br />

heat as the turtleshell may otherwise be embrittled<br />

and damaged. When the boulle is transferred<br />

so that it is face down on the paper, a<br />

compressible card may be used to compensate<br />

for inherent differences in thickness of metal<br />

and turtleshell and ensure the upper surface is<br />

level.<br />

10.4.7 Coatings for boulle work<br />

The traditional coating material for boulle was<br />

a natural resin varnish, later shellac, sometimes<br />

followed by a pigmented wax polish. This<br />

slowed the diffusion of pollutants and moisture<br />

and saturated the surface of the turtleshell<br />

where it had become dull. Other surface<br />

finishes such as nitrocellulose and Paraloid B72<br />

have also been used. A 7.5% w/v solution of<br />

Paraloid B72 in diacetone alcohol: ethanol 3:1<br />

is suitable for brush application on boulle.<br />

Differential corrosion may become a problem<br />

where there are holidays in the coating or as it<br />

degrades. A clean and uncontaminated surface<br />

is essential for such coatings to be effective.<br />

Corrosion inhibitors and coatings are discussed<br />

more fully in the metals section (15.3).<br />

10.4.8 Stringing and metal inlay<br />

Stringing may be purchased from specialist<br />

veneer suppliers but may need thicknessing to<br />

match the original. A jig, such as that illustrated<br />

in Figure 10.25, may be used for the purpose.<br />

Stringing may be laid using pressure from<br />

above (e.g. with a small veneer or Warrington<br />

pattern hammer) and the side simultaneously<br />

(e.g. with the rounded end of a scalpel handle)<br />

working over a length until the glue has gelled.<br />

Principles of conserving and repairing wooden furniture 481<br />

(a)<br />

(b)<br />

Figure 10.25 A jig for thicknessing replacement<br />

stringing<br />

(a) A chisel plane is positioned against block (iii). The<br />

plane illustrated is a Record three-in-one plane with the<br />

bullnose removed. Block (i) functions as a fence when<br />

the stringing is pulled through the jig; (ii) is a thin<br />

piece of Formica or similar material; the block on the<br />

underside (iv) allows the jig to be held in a vice<br />

(b) The plane blade is inverted and its depth adjusted<br />

to produce stringing of the required dimension.<br />

Stringing is pulled through the jig in the direction<br />

indicated by the arrow<br />

Alternatively, veneer pins or gummed tape may<br />

be used to hold stringing tight to the adjacent<br />

veneer. Excess glue should be removed when<br />

gelled by running a chisel along the edge – this<br />

is far less time-consuming than trying to<br />

remove the excess once the glue has set. Some<br />

patterned bandings are still produced whilst<br />

others will have to be made up to match.<br />

Although they may initially appear complex<br />

(i)<br />

(ii)<br />

(iii)<br />

(iv)

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