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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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1922 April–The oil production department <strong>of</strong> Suzuki<br />

Shokai [which went bankrupt in 1922] becomes independent<br />

<strong>and</strong> founds Hohnen Oil Co., Ltd. (Hohnen Seiyu).<br />

1923 Sept.–The Great Kanto / Tokyo Earthquake (Kanto<br />

Daishinsai) strikes. 70% <strong>of</strong> the miso factories in the area are<br />

burned down, causing a shortage <strong>of</strong> miso. But miso makers<br />

in other parts <strong>of</strong> Japan use this opportunity to ship their miso<br />

to Tokyo, <strong>and</strong> the people <strong>of</strong> Tokyo come to realize the good<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> miso made elsewhere in Japan.<br />

1924–Kodama Shizutoshi? (or Shintaro) invents another<br />

quick method for fermenting shoyu (shoyu sokujo-ho) using<br />

acid or alkali to hydrolyze soybeans or soybean cake to make<br />

shoyu.<br />

Note: This is the earliest document seen (April 2001)<br />

that mentions shoyu made by acid hydrolysis. Address:<br />

Norin Suisansho, Tokei Johobu, Norin Tokeika Kacho Hosa.<br />

182. Horvath, A.A. 1927. The soybean as human food.<br />

Chinese Economic Journal 1(3):298-309. March. [24<br />

footnotes. Eng]<br />

• Summary: Contents: Soybean milk for food: Introduction.<br />

Preparation <strong>of</strong> soybean milk. Properties (Yu-P’i is Chinese<br />

for yuba; Laxa). Market prices. Composition. Nutritive<br />

value. New methods in the manufacture <strong>of</strong> soybean milk<br />

(Pr<strong>of</strong>. Laxa in Prague [Czechoslovakia], Li Yu-ying,<br />

Soyama). Some dietetical advantages <strong>and</strong> applications <strong>of</strong> the<br />

soybean milk. Condensed soybean milk <strong>and</strong> milk powder<br />

(Soy Lac soybean milk powder made in America by Chard).<br />

Soybean cake, soybean meal <strong>and</strong> soybean fl our as material<br />

for soybean milk. Yu p’i <strong>and</strong> yu ba (yuba; also fu chu).<br />

“In 1905, Li Yu-ying submitted a paper on the subject<br />

[<strong>of</strong> soybean milk] to the 2nd International Milk Congress<br />

in Paris, in which he emphasized that the introduction <strong>of</strong><br />

soybean milk to Western countries ‘will be highly benefi cial<br />

to public health as well as to the budget <strong>of</strong> the poor.’ Also by<br />

those who advocate <strong>and</strong> urge a vegetarian diet, a very strong<br />

case can be made for this Oriental substitute” (p. 298).<br />

According to Pr<strong>of</strong>. Laxa: “Soybean milk, supplemented<br />

with lactose <strong>and</strong> inoculated with a culture <strong>of</strong> yoghurt [yogurt]<br />

bacteria, coagulates at 40º C. in 4 hours <strong>and</strong> gives a curd-like<br />

acid mass” (p. 300).<br />

“Market prices. In Peking soybean milk is sold in small<br />

bottles in portions <strong>of</strong> about 200-220 cc. labeled ‘Bean milk,<br />

a Chinese product, the most nourishing food, made by...’<br />

For such a bottle, delivered daily, the big factories <strong>of</strong> Peking<br />

asked in 1925 $1.00 (Mex.) per month. One liter <strong>of</strong> such<br />

milk costs, therefore, about 15 cts. (Mex.)... A fi ne soybean<br />

milk powder, called Soy Lac, has recently been prepared in<br />

America by Chard” (p. 300-01). Note: This company (Chard)<br />

was fi rst referred to by Piper <strong>and</strong> Morse in 1916 in USDA<br />

Bulletin No. 439, “The soy bean, with special reference to<br />

its utilization for oil, cake, <strong>and</strong> other products.” Soy Lac is<br />

mentioned again by Horvath on p. 307.<br />

A table (p. 302) compares the composition <strong>of</strong> soymilk<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 105<br />

made in 3 locations (Tsinanfu, China; Peking, China; <strong>and</strong><br />

Japan) with that <strong>of</strong> human, cow, <strong>and</strong> goat milk. Human<br />

milk has the lowest protein content (1.25%) <strong>and</strong> ash content<br />

(0.25%); soymilk has about the same protein content as<br />

cow’s milk (3.3%) but an ash content (0.40%) which is<br />

higher than that <strong>of</strong> human milk but lower than that <strong>of</strong><br />

cow’s milk. Footnote: “To supplement the defi ciency <strong>of</strong> the<br />

soybean milk in mineral constituents [such as calcium], it<br />

is recommended by von Noorden <strong>and</strong> Salomon to add to<br />

it the salt mixture <strong>of</strong> Pirquet, which consists <strong>of</strong>: sodium<br />

chloride, 0.3 gm.; potassium chloride, 1.1 gms.; calcium<br />

glycerophosphate, 1.7 gms.; magnesium lactate, 0.5 gm.;<br />

ferrum glycerophosphate, 0.1 gm. This mixture is called<br />

Nemsalz. If diluted in 1 liter <strong>of</strong> water it gives the same<br />

percentage <strong>of</strong> salts as in women’s milk” (p. 302).<br />

“In Germany the Soyama factory (in Frankfurt)<br />

manufactures soybean fresh milk (mostly from soybeans),<br />

soybean normal cream, <strong>and</strong> also condensed bean milk <strong>and</strong><br />

cream. Soyama bean milk looks like cow’s milk, contains<br />

the same constituents, even in larger amount <strong>and</strong> in a state<br />

<strong>of</strong> fi ner dispersion. Only its taste is different. According to<br />

Fuerstenberg, Soyama milk can be qualifi ed as a special,<br />

very valuable dietetic nutrient. The high lecithin content<br />

<strong>of</strong> this preparation adds to its value too” (p. 306). A table<br />

(p. 306, based on the analyses <strong>of</strong> Dr. G. Popp <strong>of</strong> Frankfurt)<br />

shows the nutritional composition <strong>of</strong> 6 types <strong>of</strong> Soyama milk<br />

<strong>and</strong> cream preparations: Normal milk. Milk for diabetics.<br />

Milk for baking purposes. Normal cream. Cream for<br />

diabetics. Cream extra rich in fat (especially for diabetics).<br />

“According to von Noorden <strong>and</strong> Salomon, Soyama<br />

preparations may be kept as long as almond milk <strong>and</strong> Paranut<br />

milk. Soyama milk looks just like cow’s milk. By keeping,<br />

cream separates <strong>and</strong> it must be shaken before using” (p. 306).<br />

“In using Soyama milk <strong>and</strong> cream preparations, v.<br />

Noorden confi rms the following statement <strong>of</strong> Fischer (for<br />

vegetable milk in general): ‘1. In the stomach soybean milk<br />

gives a much fi ner fl occulent precipitate than does cow’s<br />

milk, produced by acid or even rennet. 2. The ingestion<br />

<strong>of</strong> soybean milk results in a feebler (smaller) secretion<br />

<strong>of</strong> gastric juice; the period <strong>of</strong> secretion is also shorter. 3.<br />

The period <strong>of</strong> stay in the stomach <strong>of</strong> the fi nely fl occulent<br />

precipitate <strong>of</strong> the soybean milk is shorter than that <strong>of</strong> the<br />

casein-fat coagulum <strong>of</strong> cow’s milk. 4. The peristaltic motion<br />

<strong>of</strong> the stomach is less after the ingestion <strong>of</strong> soybean milk <strong>and</strong><br />

more coordinated than in the case <strong>of</strong> cow’s milk, as shown<br />

by X-ray investigation’” (p. 307).<br />

“On the basis <strong>of</strong> these observations soybean milk<br />

is recommended by v. Noorden in cases <strong>of</strong> gastric <strong>and</strong><br />

duodenal ulcer, states <strong>of</strong> peritoneal irritation, hypersecretory<br />

conditions <strong>of</strong> the stomach, disturbances <strong>of</strong> the motility<br />

<strong>of</strong> the stomach, uric acid diatheses, kidney disturbances,<br />

conditions with edema where a food poor in sodium chloride<br />

is required, Basedow’s disease, cholecystitis, cirrhosis <strong>of</strong> the<br />

liver, diabetes, <strong>and</strong> in cases where a very nutritious diet is

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