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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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with soymilk}, 2 entrees {an omelet with smoked soya ham,<br />

<strong>and</strong> fritters stuffed with soy meat}, soy [actually mung bean,<br />

lüdou] sprouts in a salad <strong>and</strong> sauteed, 3 desserts {soya cake,<br />

biscuits, <strong>and</strong> confection}, <strong>and</strong> soy c<strong>of</strong>fee; a recipe for each is<br />

given; soya meat is smoked t<strong>of</strong>u).<br />

10. Use <strong>of</strong> soya in East Asia: T<strong>of</strong>u (fromage végétal),<br />

soy-based condiments (such as natto {Ping ming <strong>Natto</strong> <strong>and</strong><br />

Tokio-<strong>Natto</strong>}, miso, Chinese miso or tao-tjiung [doujiang],<br />

<strong>and</strong> shoyu {Soyou or Schozou}), making soy sauce in<br />

Kwantung, China (from Gr<strong>of</strong>f).<br />

11. The opinions <strong>of</strong> several authors concerning<br />

soya (from the French medical <strong>and</strong> hygienic press):<br />

Introduction–E. Maurel. Soya <strong>and</strong> soy bread in diabetic<br />

diets–Dr. Dujardin-Beaumetz, Dr. Bloch, Dr. J. Le G<strong>of</strong>f, L.<br />

Beille, M. Gautier. Soya used as a bean–M. Gautier. Soy<br />

sauce used in place <strong>of</strong> meat extracts. The state <strong>of</strong> cheese. The<br />

popularization <strong>of</strong> soya in Europe–A. Paillieux.<br />

Conclusions: The infl uence <strong>of</strong> cultural technology<br />

on variation. Appendix: Advice to experimenters on the<br />

acclimatization <strong>of</strong> soya in France. Other methods <strong>of</strong><br />

obtaining early-maturing soybeans.<br />

The author concludes (p. 140): We must make every<br />

effort to acclimatize soya in France. We must develop the<br />

will <strong>and</strong> learn from past mistakes. Most soybean varieties<br />

now available in France are too late. We must get varieties<br />

from Manchuria, whose climate is similar to that <strong>of</strong><br />

southeastern France, <strong>and</strong> from the northeastern USA. It is<br />

urgent that, in the near future, we start a Soybean Experiment<br />

Station to take responsibility for this work. The setbacks<br />

since 1830 can be overcome by present science <strong>and</strong> genetics.<br />

The fi rst step is to introduce better varieties.<br />

On the last page is a full-page advertisement for various<br />

seeds sold by Mr. Rouest, including 30 varieties <strong>of</strong> soybeans<br />

(Soja hispida); the names <strong>of</strong> the individual varieties are not<br />

given.<br />

Illustrations show: (1) A soy bean plant with many pods<br />

(title page). (2) Flowers <strong>and</strong> pods <strong>of</strong> the soy bean plant (p.<br />

29). (3) Soy pods <strong>and</strong> beans (p. 30). (4) A soy bean plant<br />

drawn by a Chinese artist (p. 32, from Li Yu-ying). (5)<br />

Pods <strong>of</strong> the Hato [Hahto] variety <strong>of</strong> soy bean (p. 51). (6)<br />

Germinating soy bean seeds (p. 54, from Li Yu-ying). (7)<br />

Soy bean roots with nodules (from a photo by Dr. Le G<strong>of</strong>f; p.<br />

73). (8) Soy bean pods, opened to show 3 beans in each (p.<br />

82).<br />

Tables show: (1) Production <strong>of</strong> soybeans by color<br />

in China in 1916 <strong>and</strong> 1917 (p. 35, in quintals, from the<br />

International Yearbook <strong>of</strong> Rome, Vol. 1, 1919): In 1917:<br />

Yellow 4,069,822. Other 953,012. Green 181,190. White<br />

71,234. Black 40,066. Total: 5,315,324.<br />

(2) Percentage composition <strong>of</strong> various oilseed cakes (p.<br />

95, from Kellner). (3) Imports <strong>and</strong> exports <strong>of</strong> soybean cake,<br />

by country, from 1915 to 1919 (in quintals, p. 96). Imports<br />

are given for Sweden, Canada, Korea (from 1916), Japan,<br />

<strong>and</strong> Formosa [Taiwan]. Exports are given for Engl<strong>and</strong> (6<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 90<br />

quintals in 1915), China (including Manchuria, by far the<br />

biggest exporter, from 1916), <strong>and</strong> Korea (from 1916).<br />

(4) Production <strong>of</strong> soybean cakes, by country, from<br />

1915 to 1919 (p. 97, in quintals, based on statistics from<br />

the International Bureau <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Rome, 1919). In<br />

descending order <strong>of</strong> production in 1915 (in quintals): Japan<br />

5,439,337. Korea 3,209,238. Great Britain <strong>and</strong> Irel<strong>and</strong>:<br />

1,513,059. Denmark 921,782. Java <strong>and</strong> Madura 503,025.<br />

Note that China is not listed. Netherl<strong>and</strong>s 144,523. Formosa<br />

[Taiwan] 62,131. Sweden 1,733. USA 0, but 501,822 in<br />

1916.<br />

Note: When Alsace was occupied by the Germans<br />

during World War I, the Rouest family moved from Alsace<br />

to Paris. Mr. Rouest brought soybeans from Africa <strong>and</strong><br />

adapted them to France. He paid for the publication <strong>of</strong> this<br />

book. Address: Directeur des Fermes Expérimentales de<br />

Néoculture, Carcassonne (Aude), France.<br />

150. Rouest, Leon. 1921. Le soja et son lait végétal:<br />

Applications agricoles et industrielles [The soybean <strong>and</strong> its<br />

vegetable milk. Agricultural <strong>and</strong> industrial applications].<br />

Carcassone (Aude), France: Lucie-Grazaille. 157 p. Illust.<br />

No index. 25 cm. [42 ref. Fre]<br />

• Summary: This is a summary <strong>of</strong> interesting points<br />

throughout this book. The main early use <strong>of</strong> soy in Europe<br />

was more therapeutic than nutritional (p. 3); it was used<br />

mainly in diabetic diets.<br />

Nothing remains <strong>of</strong> the early trials conducted 20 years<br />

ago in France <strong>and</strong> Austria. The reasons for the crop’s failure<br />

were lack <strong>of</strong> underst<strong>and</strong>ing <strong>of</strong> the laws <strong>of</strong> acclimatization<br />

<strong>and</strong> genetics, <strong>and</strong> the fact that soya (soja) was introduced as<br />

a new food legume, when actually it can only be utilized as<br />

a forage plant <strong>and</strong> industrially (for oil, cakes, <strong>and</strong> casein).<br />

Later, when the plant has been adapted, when it is understood<br />

that soya is not being propagated to competed with other<br />

dry legumes, that it is not being cultivated to extract from<br />

the seeds a vegetable milk for people, but simply as a forage<br />

plant–<strong>and</strong> the most remarkable one that exists (p. 3).<br />

The English are trying to acclimatize soya to their<br />

colonies, especially those in southern Africa. In 1908 some<br />

200,000 tonnes (metric tons) <strong>of</strong> soybeans were exported<br />

from China [including Manchuria] to Europe, followed<br />

by 500,000 tonnes in 1909. One can extract from soybean<br />

seeds a vegetable milk (lait végétal) which has the same<br />

value as animal milk for use in raising young animals. <strong>Its</strong><br />

seeds <strong>and</strong> forage are also fi ne for raising farm animals <strong>and</strong><br />

for industrial products. The author thanks all those who<br />

have helped him to acclimatize the soybean to France <strong>and</strong> to<br />

create new varieties <strong>of</strong> soya in France (p. 4).<br />

Introduction <strong>of</strong> the soybean to France <strong>and</strong> to Europe (p.<br />

6-7): A good but brief review <strong>of</strong> the literature on this subject.<br />

In 1739 Buffon was made director <strong>of</strong> the Jardin des Plants<br />

in Paris. Shortly thereafter, Christian missionaries in China<br />

sent him specimens <strong>of</strong> seeds <strong>and</strong> plants. The soybean must

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