History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

1084. Aoki, Sadao. 1985. Nattô oyobi tenpe no seizô ni
tsuite [Natto and tempeh production]. Daizu Geppo (Soybean
Monthly News). June. p. 10-18. [Jap]
Address: Hakko Shokuhin Bucho, Tochigi-ken Shokuhin
Kogyo Shidosho.
1085. Kushi, Aveline; Jack, Alex. 1985. Aveline Kushi’s
complete guide to macrobiotic cooking: For health, harmony,
and peace. New York, NY: Warner Books. xvii + 414 p. June.
Illust. Index. 23 cm. [36 ref]
• Summary: Index entries include: Miso 61, Tofu 50, Tamari
19, Tempeh 17, Whole dry soybeans 6, Natto 3, Soymilk 3,
Yuba 1. This book calls ganmodoki “Tofu Croquettes” and
further states that “Gan means ‘crane’ and modoki means
‘looks like.’” Among the 31 chapters are ones titled Beans
(incl. basic black soybeans, and brown rice with black
soybeans); Tofu, Tempeh, and Natto (including yuba); Sea
Vegetables; Condiments and Garnishes (incl. miso), and Fish
and Seafood.
Under “Black Soybeans” (p. 257) we read: “These
nice shiny beans are also called Japanese black beans. They
have a strong, delicious taste. Their juice is said to make
the voice clear and beautiful. Throughout Japan, mothers
prepare their children for music tests and singing lessons
with this dish. Black soybeans are also used medicinally to
help discharge animal toxins from the body.” Note: This is
the earliest macrobiotic cookbook seen that uses the term
“Black soybeans” in a recipe title. All previous macrobiotic
cookbooks called them “Black beans.”
Contains recipes for homemade tofu, tempeh, and natto.
Address: Brookline, Massachusetts.
1086. Tsujimura, Katsura. 1985. Re: Thinking about tempeh,
salted koji, and natto. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods
Center, June 12. 2 p. Typed, with signature. [Eng]
• Summary: He thanks Mr. and Mrs. Shurtleff for their
present of the new edition of ‘The Book of Tempeh,’ and
makes a few observations about the symposium “Non-Salted
Soybean Fermentation” to be held July 15-18 at Tsukuba
Science City.
He is interested in understanding the connection
between the microorganisms of kinema, thua-nao, natto, and
onchom merah of Indonesia (Neurospora).
“You have mentioned a food named ‘Tou Chiah Ping
(soy bean fried cake),’ reported and photographed at Beijing
[China] in 1931. (p. 155)” Is its Chinese characters [three
handwritten characters]?
“Unfortunately you could not get new information by
asking 10 Chinese. None of them knew about it. This means
that the food was lost or was eaten only by lower classes.
“You have referred to the relation of tou ching ping and
tempe. I also imagine tou-chiah-ping was one of the original
types of the consumption of soybean-koji, before it was
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HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 347
used for enzyme reaction, as in the case of miso production.
Salted koji (in Japan it is known variously as Tera-natto,
Daitokuji-natto, Hama-natto or Shiokara-natto) is another
type of consumption. It improves preservation and serves as
an appetizer of boiled rice. From it miso and soya sauce were
developed.
“At present grain-koji (made of rice or wheat) is usually
used for miso and soya-sauce production. Soybean protein
is hydrolyzed by grain-koji. Grain-koji itself is never eaten
directly. It is also used as enzyme preparation to hydrolyze
starch to make ‘Amasake’ or as the raw material for ‘Sake’
making. Whether grain-koji was eaten in ancient time or not,
I have no information.
“Natto and ‘Oncom merah’ are unique products utilizing
Bacillus and Neurospora respectively. I suppose both might
developed from failed production of molding.
“There are two kinds of onchom, black onchom and
red onchom; the former is made using Rhizopus, and is the
analogue of tempeh. You have classifi ed this as a type of
tempe...”
“Natto resulted from the failure of soybean-koji
production, I suppose. Natto developed in northeast Japan,
where the climate was cooler than in southeast. One must
maintain warm temperature to grow Aspergillus to get koji.
So they packed the cooked soybean in the straw parcel, and
this resulted in the growth of Bacillus instead of Aspergillus.
The wet condition on the surface of boiled soybean may
benefi t to the Bacillus (unfortunately I have no experimental
evidence).
“I am interested that the process of the development of
natto and onchom (red onchom), which seem to be resemble
each other. Sincerely yours,...” Address: Prof. of Nutrition,
Higashi Nakano 2-5-5, Nakano-ku, Tokyo 164, Japan.
1087. Asahi Shinbun (Asahi Daily News, Tokyo).1985.
“Mirai shoku”–nattô: Tsukuba de kokusai shinpojiumu [Food
of the future–Natto: International symposium in Tsukuba].
July 13. [Jap]
• Summary: While focusing on the international symposium
on non-salted fermented soybean foods, held in Tsukuba,
Japan, this article discusses tempeh as a type of natto. A
map shows the natto triangle–including kinema, thua nao,
and tempeh–passing through Japan, Nepal, Thailand, and
Indonesia. Address: Japan.
1088. Mainichi Shinbun.1985. Kaze no uta: Nattô kanpa
[Song of the wind: Natto donations]. July 16. [Jap]
• Summary: Kanpa refers to a movement to encourage the
public–in this case soliciting donations for natto in Japan.
1089. Toyo Shinpo (Soyfoods News).1985. ‘85 Ajia “muen
Hakko Daizu” Kaigi 7/15-16 oite Tsukuba Kenkyû Gakuen
Tosh Kôryû Sentaa [1985 No-Salt Fermented Soybean
Conference, July 15-16 at Tsukuba Research Center]. July