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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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soy concentrate, textured soy fl our, textured soy protein,<br />

toasting, t<strong>of</strong>u, transgenic, triglyceride, trypsin inhibitors,<br />

unsaponifi able matter, unsaturation, vanaspati–vegetable<br />

ghee, wet-milled, whole-pressed cottonseed–mechanical<br />

extracted, winterized oil, yuba. Address: 318 Main St., P.O.<br />

Box 84, Bar Harbor, Maine 04609. Phone: 207-288-4969.<br />

1587. Gonzalez-Watanabe, Yvonne; Watanabe, Joji. 1997.<br />

Introducing t<strong>of</strong>u to Hispanics. Visit to the House Foods<br />

America Corp. t<strong>of</strong>u factory in Garden Grove near Los<br />

Angeles (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Nov. 9. Conducted by<br />

William Shurtleff <strong>of</strong> Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>.<br />

• Summary: Yvonne <strong>and</strong> her husb<strong>and</strong> Joji (who fi rst<br />

contacted Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong> on 12 Sept. 1997) are interested<br />

in translating The Book <strong>of</strong> T<strong>of</strong>u into Spanish <strong>and</strong> introducing<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u to the Hispanic community, starting in Los Angeles.<br />

Yvonne, age 24 was born in the USA, where her parents<br />

(who are both from Costa Rica) lived for 30-35 years; her<br />

father was a pharmacist. She learned to speak some Spanish<br />

at home. Her parents have returned to Costa Rica. Yvonne<br />

(who was raised a Catholic) now works in a real estate <strong>of</strong>fi ce<br />

<strong>and</strong> teaches vegan cooking classes at the Kanzeonji Non-<br />

Sectarian Buddhist Temple <strong>and</strong> Shiva Ashram Yoga <strong>Center</strong><br />

at Mt. Washington in Los Angeles; there both she <strong>and</strong> Joji<br />

practice Zen meditation <strong>and</strong> yoga. Rev. Ryugen Watanabe,<br />

Joji’s uncle, is a Soto Zen master, yoga teacher, <strong>and</strong> the head<br />

<strong>of</strong> this temple. Both Yvonne <strong>and</strong> Joji are vegetarians, <strong>and</strong> she<br />

is a vegan. Her sister is an editor for El International, a big<br />

Spanish language magazine located in Miami, Florida.<br />

Yvonne got interested in vegetarianism <strong>and</strong> soyfoods<br />

through Rev. Watanabe. She had had severe migraine chronic<br />

headaches for many years. After trying every possible<br />

remedy to no avail, she told her uncle, Rev. Watanabe, about<br />

her problem. He said simply but forcefully, “It’s your diet.”<br />

She thought: “He’s crazy. I have a great diet.” In 1994,<br />

although she had been eating meat for 30 years, she tried<br />

the vegetarian diet he recommended <strong>and</strong> got quick relief.<br />

Following his advice, she began by giving up red meat <strong>and</strong><br />

pork, then phased out chicken <strong>and</strong> fi sh until after 8-9 months<br />

she was consuming a vegan diet. As Yvonne began educating<br />

herself about vegetarian nutrition, she was looking for<br />

alternatives to meats as a source <strong>of</strong> protein. Rev. Watanabe<br />

told her about t<strong>of</strong>u, <strong>and</strong> even taught her how to make it at<br />

home from whole soybeans. Now Yvonne teaches other<br />

people how to make t<strong>of</strong>u at home.<br />

Yvonne has great admiration for Rev. Watanabe. “He’s<br />

really great. He’s been teaching Zen <strong>and</strong> Yoga for more than<br />

20 years <strong>and</strong> he still charges the same, low prices–$2.00<br />

for a Yoga class. If you can pay, you pay. If you can’t, how<br />

about rolling some incense. It’s wonderful. I’ve never seen<br />

someone so committed to people.”<br />

Yvonne has been a vegan ever since <strong>and</strong> has not had<br />

a headache in almost fi ve years. A friend <strong>of</strong> Yvonne’s<br />

had migraine headaches that were so bad, she had to give<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 494<br />

herself shots. Yvonne suggested that she try switching to a<br />

vegetarian diet. She hasn’t had a headache in a year. Over the<br />

years many <strong>of</strong> Yvonne’s female relatives (her mother, sister,<br />

cousin, etc.) have become vegan–largely because they want<br />

to lose weight.<br />

Joji, age 36, was born in Tokyo but has lived in the<br />

USA since age 6. He speaks Japanese <strong>and</strong> English <strong>and</strong> is<br />

a fi nancial consultant. Joji graduated from USC, <strong>and</strong> now<br />

works in a corporate environment in real estate fi nancing.<br />

His gr<strong>and</strong>mother, Masa Miyai, lives with them. Four years<br />

ago they shut down their business selling medical supplies<br />

to Latin America. Now they are developing a project to<br />

introduce t<strong>of</strong>u to Hispanics.<br />

On Oct. 18-19 Yvonne <strong>and</strong> Joji visited Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>,<br />

where they talked with Bill Shurtleff about their project <strong>and</strong><br />

book publishing. They photocopied many Spanish-language<br />

documents <strong>and</strong> recipes related to t<strong>of</strong>u. Upon returning to<br />

Los Angeles, they developed a one-page Spanish language<br />

brochure on t<strong>of</strong>u, visited with Margaret Endo in order to<br />

arrange for a booth in next summer’s T<strong>of</strong>u Festival, <strong>and</strong><br />

began to do research.<br />

Their fi rst research project was a visit to the House<br />

Foods America Corp. t<strong>of</strong>u plant in Garden Grove, Southern<br />

California. After a brief meeting with employee Miyuki<br />

Nagano, she took them on a walking tour <strong>of</strong> the plant, so<br />

they were able to observe the entire t<strong>of</strong>u-making process.<br />

It is completely automated, except when a worker smooths<br />

the curds in the pressing trays before they are pressed.<br />

The company employs about 120 people at this facility.<br />

Of the 78 workers in the factory (including shipping <strong>and</strong><br />

receiving), 98% are Hispanic men, but the <strong>of</strong>fi ce workers<br />

are all Japanese. The company has its own delivery trucks;<br />

its marketing is focused on California, in part because <strong>of</strong><br />

increased competition from companies outside the state–as<br />

in Massachusetts [Nasoya Foods]. The company invites<br />

the Hispanic workers to take home t<strong>of</strong>u, but they don’t–<br />

probably because they don’t know what to do with it. The<br />

company has a full test kitchen <strong>and</strong> laboratory, <strong>and</strong> Miyuki is<br />

interested in developing t<strong>of</strong>u recipes that Hispanics will like.<br />

The company also makes natto at this plant.<br />

Update: Talk with Yvonne. 1997. Nov. 23. Her cousin,<br />

Alej<strong>and</strong>ra Jimenez, from Costa Rica has just arrived in Los<br />

Angeles to work with her on the t<strong>of</strong>u project. Alej<strong>and</strong>ra’s<br />

native language is Spanish but she also speaks perfect<br />

English <strong>and</strong> has a master’s degree in English. Another cousin<br />

from Costa Rica is part <strong>of</strong> an all-male rock b<strong>and</strong>, whose<br />

members are ages 30-37; all were born <strong>and</strong> raised in Costa<br />

Rica. She served them 3 t<strong>of</strong>u recipes–which they liked very<br />

much: (1) T<strong>of</strong>u cubed in miso soup; (2) Chilled t<strong>of</strong>u, cubed<br />

with sesame oil, rice vinegar, <strong>and</strong> soy sauce; <strong>and</strong> (3) Crisp<br />

freshly deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u cubes, with soy sauce. They are<br />

interested in using t<strong>of</strong>u as part <strong>of</strong> a weight-loss program.<br />

They all went to a Chinese vegetarian restaurant in<br />

nearby San Gabriel named Vegetarian Delights. Run by a

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