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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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The physico-chemical properties <strong>of</strong> two local varieties<br />

were studied.<br />

Figures show: (1) Flow chart <strong>of</strong> traditional kinema<br />

preparation. Incubation is 18-36 hours in a warm <strong>and</strong><br />

open place. Kinema is an indigenous fermented soybean<br />

food unique to Nepal, prepared mostly by the Limbu<br />

people (Limbus) <strong>of</strong> the hilly eastern region. Kinema is<br />

a close relative <strong>of</strong> Japanese natto. It is prepared only at<br />

the household level, <strong>and</strong> its method <strong>of</strong> preparation differs<br />

from home to home, depending on the locality, family<br />

convenience, <strong>and</strong> materials available. It is prepared mostly<br />

from raw soybeans, but roasted soybeans are sometimes used<br />

if the kinema has to be prepared in a hurry.<br />

(2) Flow chart for preparation <strong>of</strong> Nepalese soybean<br />

snack food. Soybeans are cleaned, roasted, dehulled,<br />

aspirated (to blow away the hulls), cracked, oiled with<br />

mustard oil, mixed with spices, then packaged.<br />

Tables: (1) Soybean production in Nepal according to<br />

ecological region (1993/95). The fi ve columns are: Region,<br />

area (hectares), production (metric tons), percentage <strong>of</strong> total<br />

production, yield (kg/ha). The average yield in the three<br />

regions is 642 kg/ha; it is highest in the mountains (680) <strong>and</strong><br />

lowest in the hills (636).<br />

(2) Total production <strong>of</strong> pulses in Nepal (1992/93 <strong>and</strong><br />

1993/94). Production (in metric tons) in 1993/94 is as<br />

follows: Lentil 109,530. Grass pea 19,400. Chick pea 18,000.<br />

Pigeon pea 16,520. Soybean 13,630. So lentil production<br />

is by far the largest <strong>and</strong> soybean is the smallest. Address:<br />

Lecturer, Central Campus <strong>of</strong> Technology, Dharan, Nepal.<br />

1542. Tamang, Jyoti Prakash. 1996. Fermented soybean<br />

products in India. In: Alex Buchanan, ed. 1996. Proceedings<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Second International Soybean Processing <strong>and</strong><br />

Utilization Conference: 8-13 January 1996, Bangkok,<br />

Thail<strong>and</strong>. Bangkok, Thail<strong>and</strong>: Printed by Funny Publishing<br />

Limited Partnership. Distributed by The Institute <strong>of</strong> Food<br />

Research <strong>and</strong> Product Development, Kasetsart University.<br />

xviii + 556 p. See p. 189-94. [10 ref]<br />

• Summary: Contents: Abstract. Introduction. Indigenous<br />

fermented soybean food: Kinema, hawaijar. Modifi ed<br />

fermented soybean food: Soy-idli (a rice-based breakfast<br />

food in south India), soy-dhokla (a wheat-based snack in<br />

west India), soy rabadi (a butter milk staple <strong>of</strong> west India).<br />

Non-fermented soybean products: Green [vegetable]<br />

soybeans (a snack in north-eastern India), roasted soybean<br />

[soynuts] (a snack throughout India), soybean chutney (a<br />

condiment / pickle made from whole soybeans in northeastern<br />

India). Commercially available soybean foods:<br />

Soymilk, soypaneer [t<strong>of</strong>u], soysuji / soy-suji (a snack in<br />

Central India), soy fortifi ed biscuit (using soyfl our).<br />

Kinema <strong>and</strong> hawaijar are similar to natto <strong>of</strong> Japan <strong>and</strong><br />

thua-nao <strong>of</strong> Thail<strong>and</strong>; the principal microorganism in both<br />

is Bacillus subtilis. Two strains were selected to give the<br />

best quality kinema. The main determinants <strong>of</strong> quality are<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 479<br />

high viscosity, long sticky strings, <strong>and</strong> solubilized protein.<br />

The optimum fermentation is for 20 hours at 40ºC. “The<br />

optimized process can be promoted to popularize more<br />

consumption <strong>of</strong> fermented soybean products as a sustainable<br />

supply <strong>of</strong> low-cost nutritious foods.”<br />

Kinema is consumed in eastern Nepal, “in the Darjeeling<br />

hills <strong>of</strong> West Bengal, Sikkim <strong>and</strong> north-eastern hills <strong>of</strong> India<br />

as a meat substitute in the local diet.”<br />

“The preparation <strong>of</strong> hawaijar is similar to kinema except<br />

the wrapping materials used are leaves <strong>of</strong> the fi g plant (Ficus<br />

hispida L.) <strong>and</strong> the fermentation time is prolonged for 3-4<br />

days.<br />

To make soybean chutney, whole dried soybeans are<br />

soaked, deep-fried in vegetable oil, then mixed with salt <strong>and</strong><br />

chilies. This chutney is then consumed like a pickle with<br />

boiled rice.<br />

Soypaneer is a very good substitute for traditional dairy<br />

paneer, a semi-s<strong>of</strong>t mild-fl avoured fresh cheese, which<br />

is signifi cantly more expensive than its soy counterpart.<br />

Soypaneer is deep fried, mixed with vegetarian curry, <strong>and</strong><br />

sometimes used to make paneer pakoda [pakora], a local<br />

recipe.<br />

Note: A pakora is a fritter–any kind <strong>of</strong> food coated in<br />

batter <strong>and</strong> deep fried.<br />

Soysuji can be used to replace up to half <strong>of</strong> the wheat<br />

suji in the preparation <strong>of</strong> traditional Indian recipes.<br />

“Cereal-based Indian diets are generally defi cient in<br />

protein <strong>and</strong> calories. The protein intake in the local diet is not<br />

enough due to high prices <strong>of</strong> meat <strong>and</strong> dairy products as well<br />

as religious taboos.”<br />

Tables: (1) Soybean-based foods in India. The four<br />

columns are: Four types <strong>of</strong> products <strong>and</strong> 12 specifi c product<br />

names. Substrate (whole soybean, soybean-rice, etc.). Use<br />

(breakfast, snack, etc.). Consumption area. (2) Chemical<br />

composition <strong>of</strong> kinema (two types with very different<br />

composition).<br />

Fig. 1 (p. 194) is a fl ow sheet <strong>of</strong> the traditional method<br />

<strong>of</strong> preparing kinema in a Sikkim village. After cooking <strong>and</strong><br />

draining, the soybeans are crushed lightly by a wooden<br />

pestle. Firewood ash may be added. Wrap the soybeans in<br />

fern leaves, <strong>and</strong> ferment for 1-3 days to make kinema. Fry<br />

to make curry or soup. Address: Microbiology Lab., Dep.<br />

<strong>of</strong> Botany, Sikkim Government College, Gangtok 737 102,<br />

Sikkim, India.<br />

1543. Chang, Sam Kow-Ching. 1996. Re: Research on<br />

soybeans for making t<strong>of</strong>u. Letter to William Shurtleff at<br />

Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, May 29. 1 p. H<strong>and</strong>written.<br />

• Summary: During the past 4 years, Dr. Chang’s laboratory<br />

has been very active in t<strong>of</strong>u research, particularly in<br />

developing methodologies for evaluating which soybean<br />

varieties are best suited for making t<strong>of</strong>u <strong>and</strong> natto. They have<br />

compared t<strong>of</strong>u making using small (120 gm), medium (500<br />

gm), <strong>and</strong> large (35 kg) methods. Approximately 10 scientifi c

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