History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

ecovered consistently from 5 samples analyzed from
Darjeeling. As reported earlier, 2 rod-shaped, acid-producing
bacteria present at levels of 2,200,000-26,000,000 (gdw =
per gram dry weight basis) were recovered, and one of these
appears to be Bacillus subtilis (Ehrenburg) Cohn.” Address:
Mycology Lab., Plant Protection Inst., USDA, Agricultural
Research, Beltsville Agricultural Research Center, Beltsville,
Maryland, 20705.
1188. Colbin, Annemarie. 1986. Food and healing. New
York, NY: Ballantine Books. 351 p. Foreword by Robert S.
Mendelsohn, M.D. Index. 23 cm. [207* ref]
• Summary: A very interesting, wholistic look at food
trips and philosophies–with a preference for macrobiotics.
Discusses miso, natto, tempeh, and tofu. Pages 169-72
discuss beans, including soybeans. Beans are said to be
contractive, acid-forming, warming, and a buildup food.
“Folklore has it that appreciable quantities of soybeans and
their products, especially tofu, can lower, or cool, sexual
energy. Research done at the universities of Illinois and
Kansas has shown that soybeans may interfere with the
absorption of zinc. As zinc is one of the minerals most
strongly associated with the healthy functioning of the sex
glands, this bit of folk wisdom appears realistic.”
Chapter 12, titled “Food as Medicine,” discusses healing
foods and tells how to prepare them, including miso soup (p.
253; contractive, alkalinizing, warming, breakdown). Miso
soup is considered a good food to help cure the common
cold, to neutralize the negative effects of excess sugar
consumption, and to combat problems of infl ammation of the
digestive tract (ulcers, colitis, spastic colon, etc.); ulcers are
problems of excess acidity.
Chapter 14, titled “The Effects of Food on Sex,” notes
that “Scientifi c studies have found that individual foodstuffs
have an effect on sexuality via their chemical constituents...
soybeans (including tofu) contain traces of antithyroid
factors; as the thyroid regulates sexual desire, activity, and
fertility, when consumed in large enough quantities these
foods could possibly inhibit sexuality by lowering thyroid
energy. Oriental folk rumor, which I’ve been unable to
verify, has it that tofu ‘cools the sex organs’ and is used by
monks for the specifi c purpose of aiding them in maintaining
celibacy. In this light, it’s interesting to note that the
traditional Japanese diet, high in thyroid-depressing soybean
products, also contains appreciable amounts of seaweeds,
rich in thyroid-stimulating iodine.”
In the Foreword, Dr. Mendelsohn writes: “Coming from
a background of modern medicine, I, as well as hundreds
of thousands of other M.D.s, was carefully educated in
nutritional ignorance–indeed in disdain for food. The
hospital ‘dietician’ was not–and is not even today–a teacher
of physicians. The dietician’s traditional purpose in life
has always been to serve as a ‘referral’ for a patient who
bothered the physician with too many questions about food.
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 373
The very title of this book Food and Healing represents
a joining of two concepts that most doctors regard as
unrelated.”
A photo (p. 351) shows Annemarie, who was born
in Holland and brought up in Argentina on a European
vegetarian diet. After her arrival in the United States in 1961,
she was introduced to macrobiotics. She lives in New York
City with her two daughters, and directs the Natural Gourmet
Cookery School there. Address: 365 West End Ave., New
York City, NY 10024. Phone: 212-580-7121.
1189. Durston, Diane. 1986. Old Kyoto: a guide to traditional
shops, restaurants, and inns. Tokyo, San Francisco:
Kodansha International. 240 p. Foreword by Donald Richie.
Illust. (photos by Lucy Birmingham). Indexes (by type of
shop; alphabetical list of shops). 19 cm. [17 ref]
• Summary: “A completely revised version of the classic
guidebook to Kyoto, with a foreword by Donald Richie.
Down the cobbled paths and behind the tranquil noren
curtains of Kyoto, the old way of life goes on, nurtured in
the restrained furnishings of the traditional inns and in the
old shops where fi ne handmade items still add a touch of
quality to life. Since the fi rst edition appeared in 1986, this
lovingly written travelogue-cum-guidebook has become de
rigueur for knowledgeable travelers seeking to fi nd ‘the real
Kyoto.’ With 51 maps and over 120 photos of the living heart
of this ancient capital–and a vanishing way of life. Each shop
featured in the book is accompanied by a photo showing its
front and a map showing its location” (from the publisher).
Tofu is mentioned on pages 9, 30, 53, 55, 116, 121
(Okutan), 123, 147, 158, 193, 201, 234, 239.
Miso is mentioned on pages 53, 100, 123 (dengaku),
147, 179, 213, and 233.
Yuba is mentioned on pages 30, 59, 61, 147, and 234.
Natto is mentioned on pages 49, 183, 233, and 239.
Shôjin ryôri, the vegetarian [actually vegan] food served
in Buddhist temples, was also developed in Kyoto from its
prototype, fucha ryôri, brought from China by priests. Yuba,
uncooked wheat gluten (nama-fu), and tofu are all part of
shojin ryori (p. 30).
Fuka (p. 50-52) is a shop that specializes in making
wheat gluten, including nama-fu, the chewy variety, that is
made from half regular wheat gluten and half glutinous rice
fl our (mochi-gome). Wheat gluten is an important part of the
vegetarian diet of Zen monks.
Iriyama Tofu (p. 53-55) makes tofu (momen-dôfu) in the
traditional way, using nigari as a coagulant. The owners (Mr.
and Mrs. Iriyama) are 9th generation tofu makers, working
in a 120-year-old building. Using a charcoal fi re they make
grilled tofu (yaki-dôfu). They also make deep-fried tofu
pouches (o-age) and tofu balls (hiryôzu).
Yubahan (p. 59-61) makes yuba in the traditional way
using a wood fi re and soybeans cooked over an old clay
kamado stove. “No clocks or timers are involved.” Tomizo