History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

38). Kinako (p. 47). Soy sauce, mushroom soy sauce, kecap
manis (p. 53). Hoisin sauce (p. 54).
Chapter 10, titled “Soybean products” (p. 93-99)
includes: Black bean sauce, dried soybeans, tempeh,
beancurd (pressed beancurd, deep-fried beancurd, savory
grilled beancurd {yaki-tofu}, freeze-dried beancurd [sic]
{koyadofu}, bean curd sheets {fu pei, yuba, fu jook; the
latter are “rolled-up, long, rumpled, cream-colored sticks of
bean curd skin, bent in two”}), fermented beans (preserved
black beans {fermented black beans, tau see}, bean sauce,
toen-jang, chili/hot bean sauce, fermented beancurd), okara,
edamame, soybean sprouts, soy milk.
Note: This is the earliest English-language document
seen (March 2009) that uses the word “toen-jang” (or “toen
jang”) to refer to Korean-style soybean jang (miso).
Concerning preserved black beans: “Also called salted
or fermented black beans or ‘tau see,’ this is made by
steaming small black soybeans, then fermenting them with
salt and spices. Used in a variety of dishes to add a pleasant
rich aroma and salty taste... Crush or mash beans slightly
to release more fl avor or mix with garlic, fresh ginger, or
chilies. Available in small glass jars, cans, and plastic bags.
They should feel soft and not be dried out... Look for Pearl
River Bridge brand labeled ‘Yang Jiang Preserved Beans’ in
a 1-pound yellow canister, and Koon Chun Sauce Factory,
Double Parrot, and Zu Miao Trademark brands all in 8-ounce
bags.” Note: This is the earliest English-language document
seen (Nov. 2011) that uses the term “tau see” to refer to
Chinese-style fermented black soybeans (preserved black
beans).
Concerning bean sauce: “Varieties of this Asian staple
include yellow bean sauce, brown bean sauce, bean paste
(tau jeong), or sweet bean condiment. All are made from
yellow or black soybeans, fermented with salt and in the
sweet Northern Chinese type, with sugar-sweetened crushed
yellow [soy] beans. Two forms are found: whole beans in
a thick sauce and bean paste, which is mashed, ground or
pureed beans. The whole bean type has a rounder fl avor and
adds texture, while the pastes are very salty and should be
used sparingly... The yellow bean paste is tau cheo... Sold in
glass jars and cans. Look for Koon Chun Sauce Factory, Kon
Yick Wah Kee bean sauce, Amoy, or Yeo’s.
Chapter 18, titled “Japanese food products” (p. 168-
81) includes: Tsukemono (pickled in miso), miso paste,
shiromiso, akamiso, mamemiso, natto, miso soup, noodle
dipping sauce base (memmi), tamari sauce, teriyaki sauce,
tonkatsu sauce.
Interesting non-soy products include: Sesame paste (p.
57). Satay sauce (with peanuts), gado-gado-dressing (p. 58).
Peanut oil (p. 64). Sesame oil (p. 65). Amaranth (vegetable,
p. 72). Winged beans (p. 76). Pickled wheat gluten (p. 108).
Sesame seeds, peanuts, roasted peanuts (p. 118). Red/azuki
beans, agar-agar (p. 121). Wheat gluten (p. 127). Sesame
candy, peanut roll (p. 136). Sesame seed and peanut cookies
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 512
(p. 137). Sweet red bean paste (azuki an, p. 139). Coix seed
(Job’s tears, p. 165). Japanese seaweed and kelp (p. 169-70).
Umeboshi (p. 171). Fu (dried wheat gluten cakes), mochi (p.
177). Address: Writer, designer, illustrator and photographer,
Miami Beach, Florida.
1660. Davidson, Alan. 1999. The Oxford companion to food.
New York, NY and Oxford, England: Oxford University
Press. xviii + 892 p. Illust. by Soun Vannithone. Index. 29
cm. [1500+* ref]
• Summary: The 2,650 alphabetical entries in this excellent
encyclopedia and cornucopia represent 20 years of
Davidson’s work. The 175 illustrations by Laotian artist
Soun Vannithone are superb. There are 39 longer entries
about staple foods such as rice, noodles, and apples. A
comprehensive bibliography provides access to further
information. The book does not contain recipes.
Soy-related entries include: Bean sprouts (p. 64). Black
beans, fermented (chi, p. 79). Kecap (Indonesian soy sauce,
made “basically from soya beans and palm sugar only.” “The
word ‘kecap’ has passed into the English language as catchup
or catsup and then as Ketchup, which now means something
quite different.” p. 429). Ketchup (“probably via the Malay
word kechap, now spelled kecap, which means soy sauce.
The word was brought back to Europe by Dutch traders who
also brought the oriental sauce itself. The sauce has changed
far more than has the word, although the name has appeared
in a large number of variations such as catchup and catsup.”
Discusses tomato ketchup, mushroom ketchup, and ketchup
made from oysters, mussels, walnuts, etc., p. 430-31). Koji
(p. 435). Lecithin (p. 447). Miso (p. 509). Natto (p. 530).
Soybean (p. 739). Soy milk (p. 739-40). Soy sauce (p. 740).
Tempe (or tempeh, p. 788). Tofu (p. 798-99), including plain
tofu (doufu in Chinese), pressed tofu (doufu-kan, sic, doufugan),
wu-hsiang kan, cotton tofu or momendofu, kinugoshi
or silk tofu, sui-doufu, freeze-dried tofu [dried frozen tofu],
smoked tofu. Cooked forms of tofu: Deep-fried tofu, doufu
pok, cha-dofu, abura agé or deep-fried thin slices which can
be opened to make Inari-zushi, ganmodoki or deep-fried tofu
balls, yaki-dofu or tofu which has been grilled. Fermented
tofu: The generic term is doufu-ru. The most popular type
is white doufu-ru, and there is red doufu-ru, tsao-doufu,
ch’ou doufu [chou doufu], chiang doufu. In the Philippines
fermented tofu is called tausi [sic, tahuri, tahuli; tausi is
fermented black soybeans]. Miscellaneous: A specialty of
Japan is umesutsuke, “tofu pickled in plum vinegar with a
purple exterior.” Note: As of Oct. 2011 not one hit / result
for umesutsuke can be found on Google. Nor have we ever
heard of such a Japanese tofu product. Dofu nao (literally
“bean brain”) or smooth curds, yuba or “bean curd skin”
or “tofu skin,” okara or “presscake” (pulped skins of soya
beans) (p. 798-99). Yuba (p. 860-61).
Also discusses: Alfalfa (p. 10). Almond (p. 12-13, incl.
“almond milk”). Amaranth (p. 13). American cookbooks,