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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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gm <strong>of</strong> protein per serving. It is especially important because<br />

about 40% <strong>of</strong> the infant ‘patients’ are intolerant to cow’s<br />

milk. Also, soybeans are prepared as a wet-milled full-fat<br />

fl our added to a cereal pap. A normal ration for a one to two<br />

year-old child is the equivalent <strong>of</strong> about 200 gm <strong>of</strong> whole<br />

soybeans per day at a cost <strong>of</strong> approximately 20 cents (U.S.).<br />

“Not only are staff members <strong>of</strong> the children’s home<br />

concerned with the infants brought to them, but they visit<br />

villages near Ogbomosho to promote the cultivation <strong>and</strong> use<br />

<strong>of</strong> soybeans <strong>and</strong> teach women how to prepare them in local<br />

dishes. Several farmers–both men <strong>and</strong> women–in the area are<br />

now growing the crop <strong>and</strong> soybeans are being sold in local<br />

markets.<br />

“Women in other African countries including Ghana,<br />

Cameroon, Ug<strong>and</strong>a, Rw<strong>and</strong>a, <strong>and</strong> Zaire, are also using<br />

soybeans in local dishes. A village with small-scale<br />

equipment can provide soybean oil <strong>and</strong> meal for partially<br />

defatted soybean fl our.”<br />

Photos show: Nigerian mothers preparing soybean milk<br />

for their babies at the children’s home near Ogbomosho,<br />

Nigeria. A mother bottle-feeding soybean milk to her baby. A<br />

mother preparing soybean/cereal pap for her infant. Address:<br />

Ibadan, Nigeria.<br />

1121. Kushi, Aveline; Esko, Wendy. 1985. The changing<br />

seasons macrobiotic cookbook. Wayne, New Jersey: Avery<br />

Publishing Group, Inc. xii + 265 p. Illust. Index. 28 cm. [43<br />

ref]<br />

• Summary: The recipes are arranged by the four seasons.<br />

The index contains 43 entries for miso, 39 for t<strong>of</strong>u, 35 for<br />

tamari, 18 each for seitan <strong>and</strong> tempeh, 3 for natto, <strong>and</strong> 1 each<br />

for Japanese black [soy] beans, <strong>and</strong> for soybeans (dry).<br />

Also contains entries for amazake, amazake pudding,<br />

azuki beans, brown rice, hiziki [hijiki], kuzu, mochi, <strong>and</strong> sea<br />

vegetables. Address: Brookline, Massachusetts.<br />

1121a. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1985. The natto<br />

industry <strong>and</strong> market. In: William Shurtleff <strong>and</strong> Akiko<br />

Aoyagi. 1985. Soyfoods Industry <strong>and</strong> Market: Directory<br />

<strong>and</strong> Databook 1985. 5th ed. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods<br />

<strong>Center</strong>. 220 p. See p. 118-20. As the following statistics (see<br />

next 2 pages) show, the natto market in Japan has exp<strong>and</strong>ed<br />

steadily throughout the postwar period.<br />

1122. Noh, Chin-hwa. 1985. Traditional Korean cooking:<br />

Snacks & basic side dishes. Elizabeth, New Jersey; Seoul<br />

Korea: Hollym Corporation. 78 p. Illust. (color). Index<br />

(general). Index <strong>of</strong> Korean recipe titles. 27 cm. [Eng; kor]<br />

• Summary: This is an excellent cookbook <strong>of</strong> authentic<br />

Korean recipes, each with its Korean name (romanized<br />

<strong>and</strong> in Korean characters). Each recipe is accompanied by<br />

numerous useful color photos. The front matter contains<br />

an Introduction, Preparation tips, <strong>and</strong> 2 pages about the<br />

healthy Korean diet. Soy related recipes include: S<strong>of</strong>t bean<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 354<br />

curd soup (Sundubutchigae, p. 10). Seasoned fermented<br />

soybean soup (Ch’onggukchangtchigae, with 1 cake bean<br />

curd <strong>and</strong> 6-8 tablespoons seasoned fermented soybeans,<br />

p. 11 [ch’onggukchang is Korean style natto]). Royal<br />

soybean paste soup (Kungjungdoenjangtchigae, with 2<br />

tablespoons soybean paste [Korean miso], p. 12). Bean<br />

curd casserole (Tubu Chon-gol, p. 13). Wrapped bean curd<br />

(Tubussamtchim, p. 15). Stuffed bean curd (Tubusobagi, p.<br />

16). Steamed bean curd (Tubuson, p. 16-17). Bean curd in<br />

soy sauce (Tubut’wigimjorim, p. 18). Salted bean curd <strong>and</strong><br />

beef (Tubu Soemgogijorim, p. 18). Salted beans (K’ongjorim,<br />

with 1 cup black beans plus soy sauce, sugar, sesame<br />

seeds, <strong>and</strong> sesame oil, p. 19). Cold cooked bean curd (Tubu<br />

Naengch’ae, p. 22). Bean sprout rice (K’ongnamulpap,<br />

with 2/3 lb. [soy] bean sprouts, p. 24). Dried radish strips<br />

in soy sauce (Muumallaengijangatchi, p. 54). Cucumbers<br />

in soy sauce (Oijangatchi, p. 55). Sesame leaves in soy<br />

sauce (Kkaennipchangatchi, p. 56). Todok in red sauce<br />

(Todokchangatchi, with 1 cup soy sauce, p. 56). Fermented<br />

soybean lumps (Meju, with 18 lb. dried yellow soybeans,<br />

p. 62-63). Soy sauce (Kanjang, homemade, p. 62-63).<br />

Soybean paste (Toenjang, homemade, p. 63). Red pepper<br />

paste (Koch’ujang, homemade, with 2 lb. fermented soybean<br />

powder, 6 lb glutinous rice powder, p. 64).<br />

Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (Jan. <strong>2012</strong>) that uses the word “ch’onggukchang” to<br />

refer to Korean-style natto.<br />

Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document<br />

seen (March 2009) that uses the word “Toenjang” to<br />

refer to Korean-style soybean paste (miso), or the word<br />

“Koch’ujang” to refer to Korean-style fermented red pepper<br />

<strong>and</strong> soybean paste (miso).<br />

The useful Glossary (p. 73-75) contains defi nitions <strong>of</strong>:<br />

Bean curd (tubu). Beans, incl. yellow soybeans (huink’ong)<br />

which are used to make [soybean] sprouts (k’ongnamul),<br />

bean curd (tubu), s<strong>of</strong>t bean curd (sundubu), bean paste<br />

(toenjang), fermented soybeans for making soy sauce (meju),<br />

seasoned fermented soybeans (ch’onggukchang [Korean<br />

natto]), soybean fl our (k’ongkaru), soy sauce (kanjang).<br />

Brown soybeans (pamk’ong–literally “chestnut beans”)<br />

are a chestnut brown color <strong>and</strong> have a smooth chestnut-like<br />

texture when cooked.<br />

Black soybeans (komunk’ong) are served as a side dish.<br />

Mung beans (noktu), used to make mung bean<br />

sprouts (sukchu namul), etc. Red kidney beans [azuki]<br />

(kangnamk’ong).<br />

Bean sprouts (k’ongnamul) may be grown at home or<br />

purchased in the vegetable section <strong>of</strong> most grocery stores.<br />

The large sprouts are from the yellow soybean; the smaller,<br />

more delicate sprouts are from the green mung bean.<br />

“Soybean paste (toenjang) is a thick brown paste<br />

made from a mixture <strong>of</strong> mashed fermented soybean lumps<br />

[soybean koji] (left from making the soy sauce), powdered<br />

red pepper seeds <strong>and</strong> salt. It is used as a thickener for soups

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