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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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econstruct maps <strong>of</strong> these towns “in roughly the period <strong>of</strong><br />

the 1920s, but not in any specifi c year” (p. 779-80). In Nov.<br />

1908 Masanao Hanihara, Secretary <strong>of</strong> the Japanese Embassy,<br />

issued a report on his investigations <strong>of</strong> living conditions<br />

<strong>of</strong> Japanese in the western USA (p. 791). He found the<br />

Japanese still lived “at the level <strong>of</strong> immigrant laborers;”<br />

the conditions in their communities were “extremely low<br />

<strong>and</strong> chaotic.” “The Japanese in these areas hardly mix with<br />

white residents, while sometimes they approach or mix with<br />

Chinese. There are many ill effects from clique-ishness.”<br />

“The majority <strong>of</strong> Japanese workers lack knowledge <strong>of</strong><br />

English, so whenever they make contracts they sign papers<br />

blindly” (p. 795-96). Hanihara estimated the Japanese<br />

population <strong>of</strong> various states as follows: Washington 9,000<br />

to 10,000, Oregon 3,500 to 4,500, Wyoming 1,000 to 1,500,<br />

Idaho 1,000 to 1,500, Montana 1,000, <strong>and</strong> Alaska 1,000.<br />

The largest Japanese community in the region was in Seattle<br />

(about 4,000 Japanese). “Shinzaburo Ban <strong>of</strong> Portl<strong>and</strong> is<br />

almost the top among successful Japanese on the Pacifi c<br />

Coast.” His business, S. Ban Co., headquartered in Portl<strong>and</strong><br />

(where he arrived in 1891), acts mainly as a contract agency<br />

for Japanese laborers–a sort <strong>of</strong> employment agency, “<strong>and</strong> his<br />

store supplies sake, miso, soy sauce <strong>and</strong> other such Japanese<br />

foods <strong>and</strong> small items to the laborers” (p. 789-93; see<br />

portrait photo p. 792). A sidebar (p. 793, by Raisuke Tamura,<br />

Seattle) notes that “However long they lived in the United<br />

States, Japanese had to have Japanese food... Around 1906 I<br />

imported from Japan vegetables such as lotus root, Japanese<br />

radish [daikon], gobo (burdock), zenmai (fern), abura-age<br />

[deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u pouches], nigari (bittern, a t<strong>of</strong>u coagulant),<br />

tsukuneimo, yamaimo, <strong>and</strong> so on, in hundred-pound baskets,<br />

<strong>and</strong> sold them to sawmills <strong>and</strong> railroad camps” (p. 793).<br />

The 1 January 1916 edition the Hokubei Nenkan listed<br />

all businesses operating in various Japanese towns. These<br />

included two “t<strong>of</strong>u-makers” in Seattle, Washington (p. 800),<br />

at least one t<strong>of</strong>u maker in Tacoma, Washington (p. 804.<br />

Tacoma had a Japanese population <strong>of</strong> 931 in 1915–721 males<br />

<strong>and</strong> 210 females). Spokane didn’t have a Japanese town as<br />

in Seattle <strong>and</strong> Tacoma, but in 1915 it did have a Japanese<br />

population <strong>of</strong> 536 (462 males <strong>and</strong> 74 females).<br />

The map <strong>of</strong> old-town Portl<strong>and</strong>, Oregon, probably from<br />

about 1935, shows 90 Japanese businesses located between<br />

1st Ave. <strong>and</strong> 7th Ave. (running north-south) <strong>and</strong> between W.<br />

Burnside <strong>and</strong> N.W. Glisan (running east-west). Among these<br />

are two t<strong>of</strong>u manufacturing companies. “Ota T<strong>of</strong>u Mfg.” is<br />

located on 5th Ave. between Everett <strong>and</strong> Fl<strong>and</strong>ers. [Note:<br />

The actual address was 86½ 5th N]. “Fukei T<strong>of</strong>u Mfg.” is<br />

located is on N.W. Davis between 3rd Ave. <strong>and</strong> 4th Ave.<br />

Contents: The book is divided into 21 parts, with each<br />

part containing several chapters (the number is shown in<br />

parentheses): 1. Sailing (6). 2. Secret passage <strong>and</strong> shipjumping<br />

(5). 3. Japanese exclusion (15). 4. Japanese women<br />

(2). 5. Railroads (5). 6. Alaska (4). 7. Sawmills (2). 8.<br />

Agriculture (7). 9. Hotels (2). 10. Restaurants (2). 11. Mines<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 214<br />

(2). 12. Oysters (2). 13 Japanese language schools (2). 14.<br />

Studying English (3). 15. Pro-Japanese (8). 16. Furuya<br />

Company (4). 17. Lese majesty affairs (2). 18. Gambling<br />

(3). 19. Girls (2). 20. On the streets (9). 21. In Memorium<br />

[Memoriam–to the many who died]. (2). Appendixes: (1)<br />

Partial list <strong>of</strong> Japan-U.S. <strong>and</strong> Japan-Canada sister cities.<br />

(2) Japanese consulates. (3) Chronological table: Japan <strong>and</strong><br />

America (side by side), 1868-Sept. 1972. Bibliography (p.<br />

967-72, mostly Japanese-language books). Epilogues: To<br />

English <strong>and</strong> to Japanese editions. Index <strong>of</strong> personal names<br />

(p. 988-1016). Address: Tokyo <strong>and</strong> Seattle, Washington.<br />

620. Sundhagul, Malee; Daengsubha, W.; Suyan<strong>and</strong>ana,<br />

P. 1973. Thua-nao: A fermented soybean food <strong>of</strong> northern<br />

Thail<strong>and</strong>. II. Improved method <strong>of</strong> processing. Bangkok:<br />

Applied Scientifi c Research Corp. <strong>of</strong> Thail<strong>and</strong>. 10 leaves.<br />

Traditional Processing Method, Research Project No. 38/3.<br />

30 cm. [2 ref]<br />

• Summary: Summary: Soak whole soybeans in water<br />

overnight. Drain <strong>of</strong>f excess water. Steam under atmospheric<br />

pressure for 2 hours or at 15 psi for 40 minutes. Allow to<br />

cool to below 50ºC. Inoculate with a 1% suspension <strong>of</strong><br />

a bacterial culture <strong>of</strong> Bacillus subtilis N-8, isolated from<br />

native thua-nao, or with 20% by weight <strong>of</strong> freshly fermented<br />

soybeans. Incubate at room temperature for 36 hours or<br />

at 35ºC for 24 hours. Dry at 65ºC overnight. Grind into a<br />

powder–which is palatable.<br />

From 1,000 gm <strong>of</strong> dry soybeans almost 900 gm <strong>of</strong><br />

thua-powder was obtained. This powder contains more<br />

than 40% protein (one-third <strong>of</strong> which is soluble) <strong>and</strong> 20%<br />

fat on a dry weight basis. Address: Bio-Technology Group,<br />

Technological Research Inst., ASRCT, Bangkok, Thail<strong>and</strong>.<br />

621. Sundhagul, Malee; Daengsubha, W.; Suyan<strong>and</strong>ana,<br />

P. 1973. Thua-nao: A fermented soybean food <strong>of</strong> northern<br />

Thail<strong>and</strong>. III. Development <strong>of</strong> a low-cost high protein food.<br />

Bangkok: Applied Scientifi c Research Corp. <strong>of</strong> Thail<strong>and</strong>. 11<br />

leaves. Traditional Processing Method, Research Project No.<br />

38/3. 30 cm. [8 ref]<br />

• Summary: An inexpensive high-protein food product,<br />

ferm-soy mix, has been developed by blending fl avoring<br />

agents <strong>and</strong> a small proportion <strong>of</strong> high-grade fi sh meal<br />

into a soy protein base prepared from fermented whole<br />

soybeans. Such products can be made using simple,<br />

inexpensive equipment. Ferm-soy mix can be easily packed<br />

in polyethylene bags <strong>and</strong> stored at room temperature for long<br />

periods <strong>of</strong> time. “It is thought that fortifi cation <strong>of</strong> the product<br />

with vitamins <strong>and</strong> minerals could be accomplished by simple<br />

mixing.”<br />

The ferm-soy mix has fl avor comparable to existing<br />

foods in common use locally. It could serve as a basic protein<br />

food among people who have low income <strong>and</strong> a low-protein<br />

diet.<br />

The objective <strong>of</strong> this study was to demonstrate a

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