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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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oiled soybeans, roasted soybeans, soybean fl our, soy<br />

sauce, fermented soybean paste, fermented whole soybeans,<br />

natto, fermented soybean curd. Experimental soybean<br />

foods: Whole soybean foods, soybean paste, soy fl our, soy<br />

beverage. Production <strong>and</strong> consumption.<br />

8. Simple village process for processing whole<br />

soybeans: Equipment, process, sanitation requirements,<br />

quality <strong>of</strong> product, evaluation <strong>of</strong> product in formulas <strong>and</strong><br />

procedures for family <strong>and</strong> institutional use in developing<br />

countries. NRRC village process. 9. Industrial production<br />

<strong>and</strong> selling prices <strong>of</strong> edible soybean protein products.<br />

10. Barriers to accepting <strong>and</strong> using soybeans in food:<br />

Availability. Cultural <strong>and</strong> social factors. Texture. Flavor.<br />

Nutrition <strong>and</strong> food safety. Technology development.<br />

Technology transfer. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois.<br />

783. Toyo Shinpo (Soyfoods News).1979. Nattô senka: Nattô<br />

no hozonshoku [<strong>Natto</strong> specialty products: Preservable types<br />

<strong>of</strong> natto]. March 21. p. 13. [Jap]<br />

• Summary: Many recipes for making natto are given.<br />

Note: Dr. Teruo Ohta says that the Tohoku region <strong>of</strong><br />

Japan has the highest natto consumption at 200 gm per<br />

person per month. Next comes the isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> Hokkiado <strong>and</strong><br />

the Kanto region, each at 100-150 gm per person per month.<br />

In the Kansai (Kyoto–Osaka–Kobe) <strong>and</strong> Kyushu regions<br />

it is only about 50 gm per person per month. In 1968 there<br />

were about 1,600 commercial natto makers in Japan <strong>and</strong> they<br />

produced 80,000 tons <strong>of</strong> natto. In the old days, natto took 2-7<br />

days to ferment.<br />

784. Fukushima, D. 1979. Fermented vegetable (soybean)<br />

protein <strong>and</strong> related foods <strong>of</strong> Japan <strong>and</strong> China. J. <strong>of</strong> the<br />

American Oil Chemists’ Society 56(3):357-62. March. [10<br />

ref]<br />

• Summary: Contents: Abstract. Introduction. Soy Sauce:<br />

Fermented soy sauce: Japanese <strong>and</strong> Chinese styles <strong>of</strong> soy<br />

sauce <strong>and</strong> their characteristics. Manufacturing process.<br />

Comparison <strong>of</strong> fermented soy sauce with chemical soy<br />

sauce. Fermented soy paste. Chinese soybean cheese (sufu).<br />

Fermented whole soybean (natto). New fermented soybean<br />

products.<br />

Tables show: (1) Types <strong>of</strong> fermented soy sauce (shoyu)<br />

in Japan. The fi ve types are koikuchi [regular shoyu] (85.4%<br />

<strong>of</strong> total; 1.050 million kiloliters a year), usukuchi [lightcolored<br />

shoyu] (11.1%), tamari shoyu (2.2%), shiro [clear<br />

shoyu] (0.4%), <strong>and</strong> saishikomi [twice-fermented shoyu]<br />

(0.3%).<br />

(2) Consumption <strong>of</strong> whole soybeans <strong>and</strong> defatted<br />

soybeans in Japan, 1976 (one-third is for foods, especially<br />

shoyu, <strong>and</strong> two thirds is for feed).<br />

(3) Typical composition <strong>of</strong> soy sauces recognized by the<br />

Japanese government. The fi ve types are the same as those<br />

discussed in Table 1.<br />

(4) Annual production <strong>of</strong> soy sauce by grade, as graded<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 260<br />

by the Japanese Agricultural St<strong>and</strong>ard (JAS) in 1976. The 3<br />

grades are special (53.4% <strong>of</strong> total), upper (26.0%), st<strong>and</strong>ard<br />

(12.9%), non-JAS mark (7.7%). Total production is 1.226<br />

million kiloliters.<br />

(5) Chemical composition <strong>of</strong> major types <strong>of</strong> miso in<br />

Japan. The fi ve types are rice miso (sweet, semisweet,<br />

<strong>and</strong> salty), barley miso (semisweet), <strong>and</strong> soybean miso<br />

(salty). For each is given the color, aging time, chemical<br />

composition, <strong>and</strong> total tonnage produced.<br />

Figures show: (1) Flow sheet for making koikuchi<br />

(regular) shoyu. (2) Flow sheet for making tamari (regular)<br />

shoyu.<br />

(3) Two chromatograms comparing the organic acids <strong>of</strong><br />

fermented <strong>and</strong> chemical (HVP) soy sauce. Fermented soy<br />

sauce has an abundance <strong>of</strong> lactic acid, whereas HVP soy<br />

sauce has an abundance <strong>of</strong> formic acid.<br />

(4) Flow sheet for making rice miso. (5) Flow sheet for<br />

making sufu [fermented t<strong>of</strong>u]. (6) Flow sheet for making<br />

natto. (7) Flow sheet for making fermented soy milk drink.<br />

Concerning fermented whole soybean (natto): It is a<br />

traditional fermented food that originated in the “northern<br />

parts <strong>of</strong> Japan 1,000 years ago.” It is usually served with<br />

shoyu <strong>and</strong> mustard.<br />

A portrait photo shows Danji Fukushima. Address:<br />

Kikkoman Foods, Inc., P.O. Box 69, Walworth, Wisconsin.<br />

785. Sakaguchi, Y. 1979. Opening remarks–Vegetable<br />

proteins in fermented foods <strong>and</strong> other products. J. <strong>of</strong> the<br />

American Oil Chemists’ Society 56(3):356. March.<br />

• Summary: “Miso, or soybean paste, one <strong>of</strong> the most<br />

important fermented soybean foods, was originally made in<br />

China. A missionary who was sent [from Japan] to China<br />

learned its production <strong>and</strong> modifi ed it into a product suited to<br />

the Japanese taste in the 7th century. About 185,000 tons <strong>of</strong><br />

soybeans are used for miso production annually.<br />

“Another major fermented soybean food is soy sauce<br />

which was originally developed by the Zen Monk Kakushin<br />

in 1234. He also visited China <strong>and</strong> discovered that the liquid<br />

portion from Miso was very delicious. This liquid became<br />

the base for soy sauce, an essential ingredient in the Japanese<br />

diet. Soy sauce required the annual use <strong>of</strong> nearly 175,000<br />

tons <strong>of</strong> soybean meal, the equivalent <strong>of</strong> 222,000 tons <strong>of</strong><br />

soybeans.<br />

“<strong>Natto</strong>, the third major fermented soybean product<br />

<strong>of</strong> Japan, originated in our country. In 1087, a ruler in the<br />

northern part <strong>of</strong> Japan discovered natto to be part <strong>of</strong> local<br />

farmers’ diets. Today, nearly 60,000 tons <strong>of</strong> soybeans are<br />

consumed in its production.<br />

“As Japan continues to draw from its historic past for<br />

a source <strong>of</strong> soy-based foods, we also are full participants<br />

in the new era <strong>of</strong> sophisticated vegetable protein foods. To<br />

promote utilization <strong>and</strong> production <strong>of</strong> this product, the Japan<br />

Vegetable Protein Food Association was organized in 1975.”<br />

A photo shows Dr. Yukio Sakaguchi. Address: Japan

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