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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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epresenting roughly 2,000 soybean varieties <strong>and</strong> including<br />

150 large-seeded vegetable type varieties collected mostly<br />

in Korea <strong>and</strong> Japan; all <strong>of</strong> these were introduced into the<br />

U.S. germplasm collection; (2) he realized for the fi rst time<br />

the superiority <strong>and</strong> potential <strong>of</strong> the vegetable-type soybeans<br />

for food use <strong>and</strong> later played the leading role in propagating<br />

them <strong>and</strong> teaching others <strong>of</strong> their value; (3) he developed a<br />

much better underst<strong>and</strong>ing <strong>of</strong> soybean growing methods <strong>and</strong><br />

technology; <strong>and</strong> (4) he collected more than [commercial]<br />

250 food products made from soybeans, which he took back<br />

to America, <strong>and</strong> did by far the most extensive studies on<br />

soyfood production <strong>of</strong> any Westerner up to that time.<br />

“In his journals <strong>and</strong> letters, Morse wrote more than once<br />

that he was ‘amazed at the extent to which the soybean was<br />

used for food in Japan.’ He was intrigued by the techniques<br />

for making t<strong>of</strong>u, miso, shoyu, natto, <strong>and</strong> other soyfoods,<br />

spent many days in small shops with producers, <strong>and</strong><br />

described their processes in great detail, taking hundreds <strong>of</strong><br />

pages <strong>of</strong> typed text with hundreds <strong>of</strong> photographs.<br />

“The two-year trip was a tremendous adventure for both<br />

Morse <strong>and</strong> Dorsett. Morse later remarked that he considered<br />

it the highlight <strong>of</strong> his career. He was fi nally able to fully<br />

grasp the great potential <strong>of</strong> the soybean, which he had only<br />

been able to glimpse through his years <strong>of</strong> reading <strong>and</strong> work<br />

in America.” Continued. Address: Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>, P.O. Box<br />

234, Lafayette, California.<br />

874. Hara, Toshio; Aumayr, Andrea; Ueda, S. 1981.<br />

Characterization <strong>of</strong> plasmid deoxyribonucleic acid in<br />

Bacillus natto: Evidence for plasmid-linked PGA production.<br />

J. <strong>of</strong> General <strong>and</strong> Applied Microbiology (Tokyo) 27(4):299-<br />

305. Aug. [14 ref]<br />

• Summary: Describes the discovery <strong>of</strong> a 5.7-kilobase<br />

plasmid, pUH1, which contains the gamma-glutmyl<br />

transpeptidase (gamma-GTP) gene responsible for<br />

polyglutamic acid production. Address: 1, 3. Dep. <strong>of</strong><br />

Food Science & Technology, Faculty <strong>of</strong> Agriculture,<br />

Kyushu Univ., Hakozaki, Fukuoka 812, Japan; 2. Dep. <strong>of</strong><br />

Microbiology, Innsbruck Univ., Innsbruck 6020, Austria.<br />

875. Inkson, Ms.; Mann, E.J. comp. 1981. Thesaurus:<br />

Food Science <strong>and</strong> Technology Abstracts. 2nd ed. Shinfi eld,<br />

Reading, Engl<strong>and</strong>: IFIS (International Food Information<br />

Service). 238 p. No index. 30 cm. First edition, 1977. [Eng]<br />

• Summary: The Introduction states: “The original IFIS word<br />

list, issued in 1970, did not attempt to give more than the<br />

barest outline <strong>of</strong> the relations between the terms encountered.<br />

In 1977, therefore, an FSTA Thesaurus was published, in<br />

which the basic structuring <strong>of</strong> the material found in FSTA<br />

was set out. The Thesaurus was designed to give maximum<br />

compatibility with the EEC Multilingual (English / French<br />

/ German / Italian) Food Thesaurus, published in 1979 (<strong>and</strong><br />

itself based largely on the FSTA system for the English<br />

version), <strong>and</strong> to take into account the needs <strong>of</strong> on-line users.”<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 283<br />

The terms are divided into headings (main terms or<br />

descriptors), which are printed in capital letters, <strong>and</strong> lead-in<br />

terms (non-descriptors) printed in lower case. Additional<br />

information is included in square brackets. The following<br />

abbreviations show the types <strong>of</strong> relationship between terms:<br />

BT = broader terms. NT = narrower terms. RT = related<br />

terms. UF = used for. lead-in term followed by “see” heading<br />

(e.g. bean curd see TOFU).<br />

Soy-related terms: Beverages: UF soy milk. Lecithins:<br />

BT Emulsifi ers, Phospholipids. UF phosphatidylcholine.<br />

Legumes: NT Soybeans. Miso: BT Soy Products. natto: see<br />

Soy Products. Sauces: NT Soy Sauces. soy fl our: see Soy<br />

Products. soy milk: see Beverages; Soy Products.<br />

Soy Products: BT Soybeans, Vegetable Products,<br />

Fermented Products. NT Miso, Soy Proteins, Soy Sauces,<br />

Soybean Oils. UF natto, nyufu, soy fl our, soy milk, sufu,<br />

tempeh, t<strong>of</strong>u, tsukudani, vital.<br />

Soy Proteins: BT Protein Products, Soy Products,<br />

Proteins Vegetable. RT Textured Vegetable Proteins. UF<br />

okara protein, Promine [Central Soya Co.], Supro 620, yuba.<br />

Soy Sauces: BT Fermented Products, Sauces, Soy<br />

Products. UF moromi, shoyu.<br />

Soybean Oils: BT Oils Vegetable, Soy Products.<br />

Soybeans (Glycine max): BT Legumes, Oilseeds. NT Soy<br />

Products.<br />

Note: This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2003)<br />

that is a thesaurus containing terms related to soybeans <strong>and</strong><br />

soy products. Address: IFIS (International Food Information<br />

Service), Lane End House, Shinfi eld, Reading RG2 9BB,<br />

Engl<strong>and</strong>.<br />

876. SoyaScan Notes.1981. What is thua-nao? (Overview).<br />

Oct. 23. Compiled by William Shurtleff <strong>of</strong> Soyfoods <strong>Center</strong>.<br />

• Summary: Thua-nao is a fermented soyfood found mostly<br />

in northern Thail<strong>and</strong>. A close relative <strong>of</strong> Japanese natto, it<br />

is sold or eaten in either <strong>of</strong> two forms, as cooked thua-nao<br />

paste or as thua-nao chips, both <strong>of</strong> which are made from<br />

raw thua-nao paste. Especially popular in areas where fi sh<br />

are scarce, it is are used like fermented fi sh to add fl avor to<br />

richly-fl avored vegetable soups <strong>and</strong> chili-hot dishes. In some<br />

areas it is used as a basic item in the diet rather than merely<br />

as a seasoning.<br />

To make thua-nao in the traditional way, 2 to 4<br />

pounds <strong>of</strong> whole dry soybeans are washed then, without<br />

presoaking, boiled in excess water for 3 to 4 hours, or until<br />

s<strong>of</strong>t enough to be easily crushed between the fi ngers. They<br />

are then drained, transferred to a bamboo basket lined with<br />

banana leaves, covered with additional banana leaves, <strong>and</strong><br />

allowed to undergo natural fermentation (without special<br />

inoculation) at room temperature (86ºF or 30ºC) for 3 to<br />

4 days, or until they are s<strong>of</strong>t enough to turn into a thick<br />

paste when lightly crushed [between] the fi ngers. As with<br />

natto, the fermentation is activated by strains <strong>of</strong> Bacillus<br />

subtilis bacteria. The fermented beans or raw thua-nao are

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