History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

On pages 3-4 is an interesting description of “Kwanti,”
which is a special food of the Newars [the indigenous people
of Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley]. It is “prepared by mixing
nine varieties of sprouted pulses and beans, such as white
grams, dry peas, soybeans, black-eyed beans, white kidney
beans, green grams, black grams, lentils and moth beans.
Soybeans are soaked for 4-9 days, and other beans are
soaked for 1-2 days. Sprouted beans are cooked with butter
and spices to make a thick soup which is served with boiled
rice. It is eaten in the festival called Kwanti Purnima, which
usually falls in August.”
On pages 6-7 is a section titled “Antiquity of kinema”
which states: “The word kinema has been derived from
kinamba of the Limbu language in which ki means fermented
and namba means fl avour (Tamang, 2001). The kingdom
of Limbuwan (presently the districts of eastern Nepal–
Terathum, Taplejung, Panchthar, Dhankuta and Ilam) was
established by the Limbus before the seventh century. They
ruled that part of Nepal until the unifi cation of Nepal in
1769. Though there is no historical document on the origin
of kinema, it is widely believed that the Limbus started its
production and consumption. The unifi cation of Nepal and
migration of people from one place to another might have
popularized this food among the other Nepali groups like
Rai, Tamang, Gurung, Magar and Sunuwar. Kinema is not
traditionally eaten by the Nepali Brahmins. Although the
reason is not documented, it is believed that the Brahmins
usually regard kinema as basi meaning stale. Another
reason may be its strong fl avour. However, for many ethnic
communities in the eastern Himalayas and Southeast Asian
countries it is a delicacy. The Lepchas call it satlyangser and
the Bhutias call it bari in Sikkim. In Meghalaya, the Khasis
call it tyrumbai [turangbai]; in Manipur a similar product
is known [by the Meities] as hawaijar; in Mizoram, the
Mizos call it bekang-um [bekang]; and in Nagaland the Naga
people call it aakhuni. It is called natto in Japan; chungkokjang
in Korea; thua-nao in Thailand; pe-poke in Myanmar
and douchi [sic] in China.”
Fermented foods are much more numerous in North East
India than in the rest of India. Address: Food Microbiology
Lab., Sikkim Government College, Gangtok, Sikkim 737
102, India.
1889. Tamang, Jyoti Prakash; Chettri, Rajen; Sharma, Rudra
Mani. 2009. Indigenous knowledge of North-east women on
production of ethnic fermented soybean foods. Indian J. of
Traditional Knowledge (New Delhi) 8(1):122-26. [21 ref]
• Summary: Contents: Abstract. Keywords. Introduction.
Kinema: Introduction (it is “produced exclusively by
Nepali women belonging to the Limboo and Rai castes”),
indigenous knowledge of preparation (it “can be preserved
for several months by drying in the sun for 2-3 days”),
cuisine (recipes), economy, ethno-microbiology.
Hawaijar: Introduction (it is produced by Meitei women
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 575
in Manipur), indigenous knowledge of preparation, cuisine,
microorganisms.
Tungrymbai: Introduction (it is produced by Khasi
women in Meghalaya), indigenous knowledge of
preparation, cuisine, microorganisms.
Aakhone: Introduction (it is produced by Sema Naga
women in Nagaland), indigenous knowledge of preparation,
cuisine, microorganisms.
Bekang: Introduction (it is produced by Mizo women
in Mizoram), indigenous knowledge of preparation, cuisine,
microorganisms.
Peruyyan: Introduction (it is produced by Apatani [not
spelled Apatanai] women in Arunachal Pradesh), indigenous
knowledge of preparation, cuisine, microorganisms (Chettri
and Tamang unpublished).
Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2010)
that mentions Peruyyan, a close relative of Nepalese kinema
and Japanese natto.
Bio-nutrients in ethnic fermented soybeans. Conclusion.
A fl ow sheet shows the basics of how each of these
fermented soybean foods is made. For example, for Peruyyan
[not spelled Peruyaan]: Wash soybeans with water and boil
for 1-2 hours. Drain off excess water and cool. Pack cooked
soybeans in bamboo baskets lined with ginger leaves. Keep
on a wooden rack above the fi replace. Allow to ferment at
20-35ºC for 3-5 days.
Note 2. In a PowerPoint presentation in 2010, J.P.
Tamang stated that the major consumers of Peruyyan are
the Adi, Nishi, and Apatani peoples in Arunachal Pradesh.
Address: Food Microbiology Lab., Dep. of Botany, Sikkim
Government College, Sikkim University, Tadong 737102,
Sikkim, India.
1890. Yagihashi, Takashi; Salat, Harris. 2009. Takashi’s
noodles. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press. An imprint
of Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House.
176 p. Illust. (photos by Tyllie Barbosa).
• Summary: “A collection of 75 recipes from James Beard
Award-winning chef Takashi Yagihashi for both traditional
and inventive hot and cold Japanese noodle dishes” (from the
publisher). The pages are unnumbered.
The cover photo shows a photo of “Natto soba.”
The headnotes to the recipe for “Natto soba” state: “My
hometown of Mito is known throughout Japan as ‘Natto
City’ in recognition of our devotion to these fermented
soybeans. Natto has a wonderful nutty fl avor and aroma,
and I’ve loved it since I was a kid. Serving it with soba is a
terrifi c introduction to this nutritious and ancient naturally
preserved ingredient. When you open a packet of natto,
the beans will be sticky and thready, but don’t let that put
you off. This dish makes a beautiful presentation when it’s
served. Just make sure you mix together all the ingredients
very well before you eat to combine the fl avors.”