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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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soy fl our, whole soy fl our, soybean oil, textured vegetable<br />

protein, etc. These problems are easily solved with alternate<br />

table designs. For example, have one table for each language,<br />

with the name <strong>of</strong> each soyfood product given fi rst in English<br />

<strong>and</strong> then in the language <strong>of</strong> that country. Put the description<br />

<strong>and</strong> comments in a glossary to avoid repetition. Or, have<br />

a glossary entry for each soyfood, with the English name,<br />

description, comments.<br />

The table is divided into four basic types <strong>of</strong> soybean<br />

products. After each, we will give the Cantonese name <strong>and</strong><br />

then the Japanese name, <strong>and</strong> we will indicate disagreements<br />

using [sic]. NL = Not listed.<br />

(1) Bean curd: Tau fu fu [sic] = kinugoshi t<strong>of</strong>u. Tau fu<br />

= momen t<strong>of</strong>u. NL = yaki t<strong>of</strong>u [sic, yaki-d<strong>of</strong>u]. NL = koya<br />

t<strong>of</strong>u or kori t<strong>of</strong>u [sic, koya-d<strong>of</strong>u or kori-d<strong>of</strong>u]. Tau fu pok =<br />

abura age. Fu chu = yuba [sic, fu chu is dried yuba sticks.<br />

Yuba in M<strong>and</strong>arin is doufu pi]. fu joke [sic, fu jook] (bean<br />

curd sticks) = NL. Tim joke [sic, tiem jook] (sweet bean curd<br />

sticks) = NL. tau fu kon [M<strong>and</strong>arin: doufu gan; pressed t<strong>of</strong>u].<br />

(2) Soy sauce: Light = chan ch’an or sang chu = usu<br />

kuchi shoyu [sic, not the same]. Dark, medium = see yu chan<br />

yan = shoyu [sic, see yu is soy nugget sauce, not made in<br />

Japan. Japanese shoyu is not traditionally made in China].<br />

Dark, heavy, sweet = chu yan = NL.<br />

(3) Fermented bean pastes <strong>and</strong> cheeses. Black bean paste<br />

= dau see tau ch’ih = NL. Sweet, white bean paste = NL =<br />

shiro miso. White soy cheese [fermented t<strong>of</strong>u, should be<br />

classifi ed under t<strong>of</strong>u] = pai doufu-ru or foo yee or foo yu =<br />

NL. Red soybean paste = NL = aka miso. Red soy cheese or<br />

spiced red bean curd = hung doufu-ru or nom yee or nam yu.<br />

(3) Miscellaneous soybean productions. Soy jam = yun<br />

shi jeung = NL. Whole fermented soybeans = NL = nato [sic,<br />

natto]. Red bean sauce = saang see jeung = NL. Soybeans<br />

<strong>and</strong> malted rice = NL = moromi miso. Hoisin sauce = hoisin<br />

= NL.<br />

In the “Basic recipes” section is a recipe for Indonesian<br />

dark sweet soy sauce (ketjap manis).<br />

The Glossary (p. 499-515) contains the following soyrelated<br />

entries: “Bean Curd (t<strong>of</strong>u, Japanese; tao foo, Chinese;<br />

tahu, Indonesian <strong>and</strong> Thai; tokwa, Philippines): A curdled,<br />

s<strong>of</strong>t, cheeselike preparation made from soybean milk. Used<br />

as a source <strong>of</strong> protein in Asian cooking. Available loose or in<br />

packages.”<br />

Bean paste, red sweet [from azuki beans]. “Substitute<br />

Chinese sweet red bean paste, p. 132.”<br />

Bean paste, yellow (Chinese).<br />

“Beans, black salted fermented. (Called dow see in<br />

Chinese) These are very salty soybeans, sold in cans in<br />

Chinese markets. Used with garlic as a fl avoring for fi sh<br />

<strong>and</strong> pork dishes. substitute: Soybeans, cooked until s<strong>of</strong>t <strong>and</strong><br />

seasoned with plenty <strong>of</strong> soy sauce.”<br />

Bean sprouts: Usually refers to mung bean sprouts,<br />

“although alfalfa <strong>and</strong> soybean sprouts are also used.”<br />

Hoisin sauce: Soybeans are a major ingredient, along<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 341<br />

with garlic, chili peppers, <strong>and</strong> various other spices <strong>and</strong><br />

ingredients.<br />

Miso. Oyster sauce: “A Chinese sauce, made from<br />

oysters cooked in soy sauce <strong>and</strong> brine.” Used as a seasoning<br />

with cooked foods <strong>and</strong> as a table sauce. See recipe p. 146.<br />

Red bean sauce: “A strong table sauce made from<br />

mashed soybeans.” Available in cans from Chinese stores.<br />

Soy sauce<br />

Also contains entries for: Kombu. Monosodium<br />

glutamate (MSG; “I do not use it nor do I recommend its<br />

use”). Mung beans.<br />

The index contains 28 entries for soybean, 22 for soy<br />

sauce, 14 for miso, 6 for bean paste, oyster sauce, teriyaki, 4<br />

for bean curd–deep fried, hoisin sauce, vegetarian dishes, 2<br />

for ketjap, <strong>and</strong> 1 each for beans–black salted fermented, bean<br />

curd–fermented, jam–soy, jang (see miso), milk–soybean,<br />

ragi, shoyu (see soy sauce), soybean oil, sukiyaki, tahu,<br />

tau-fu or tau-hu (see bean curd), tempe [tempeh], textured<br />

vegetable protein (TVP), t<strong>of</strong>u (see bean curd), tou shih [soy<br />

nuggets],<br />

About the author (from the rear cover): “Jennifer<br />

Brennan grew up in Pakistan <strong>and</strong> India <strong>and</strong> has spent many<br />

years in Southeast Asia. She is the author <strong>of</strong> The Original<br />

Thai Cookbook.” She is “Winner <strong>of</strong> the IACP [International<br />

Association <strong>of</strong> Culinary Pr<strong>of</strong>essionals] Award for the Best<br />

Literary Food Writing.”<br />

1063. GEM Cultures. 1984. Food cultures from around the<br />

world / <strong>and</strong> more [Mail order catalog]. 30301 Sherwood Rd.,<br />

Fort Bragg, CA 95437. 4 p. [4 ref]<br />

• Summary: Contents: 1. Powdered cultures for soycrafters:<br />

Powdered starter cultures for tempeh, miso, amazake, shoyu,<br />

<strong>and</strong> tamari. In home <strong>and</strong> commercial sizes. Rice koji. 2. Koji<br />

starter kits. 2. Fresh self-renewing cultures: Viili starter,<br />

sourdough starter, kefi r grains, natto starter, living tempeh<br />

starter. 3. Coagulants for t<strong>of</strong>u making (nigari, Terra Alba<br />

calcium sulfate in 1 lb or 5 lb bags).<br />

4. Some helpful books. 5. Sea vegetables from the<br />

Mendocino Sea Vegetable Co. Our purpose. How to order.<br />

Address: Fort Bragg, California. Phone: 707-964-2922.<br />

1064. Kagaku Gijutsu-cho, Shigen Chosa-kai (Science &<br />

Technology Bureau). 1984. Shitei shokuhin seibun hyô<br />

[St<strong>and</strong>ard tables <strong>of</strong> food composition in Japan. 4th ed.].<br />

Tokyo. 370 p. Introduction by R. Kagawa, Joshi Eiyo<br />

Daigaku. 28 cm. [Jap; Eng]<br />

• Summary: Pages 76-80 gives a nutritional analysis <strong>of</strong> the<br />

following Japanese soyfoods: Soybeans: whole domestic<br />

(dry, or boiled), USA whole dry, Chinese whole dry. Green<br />

immature: raw, or boiled. Soybean sprouts: raw, or boiled.<br />

Defatted soybeans: whole, or dehulled. Kinako (roasted,<br />

ground soybeans). Budô-mame. T<strong>of</strong>u: regular (momen),<br />

silken (kinugoshi), s<strong>of</strong>t, packed, Okinawa t<strong>of</strong>u, grilled (yakid<strong>of</strong>u),<br />

nama-agé (deep-fried t<strong>of</strong>u cutlets), abura-agé (deep-

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