History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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Because of this eating style, peddlers started to sell tataki natto with greens and tofu so that people could make their own natto jiru more easily and inexpensively. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Jan. 2012) that mentions or describes “Tataki natto.” “Natto-jiru was the soup for the winter season. Starting in about the 1830s in Edo city, granulated [regular] itohiki natto began to be sold instead of tataki natto. Once people got familiar with eating granulated itohiki natto with soy sauce, peddlers started to sell itohiki natto even in the summer. “In the well-known book Morisada Mankô, the author, KITAGAWA Morisada, compared the way of life in Edo, Kyoto, and Osaka in the late Edo period. He wrote that natto sellers disappeared from Kyoto and Osaka in the late Edo period. Thus, people who wanted to eat natto in the region needed to make it by themselves. Even now, although natto is popular in Kanto region, which developed around Edo city, people in Kansai region, to which Kyoto and Osaka belong, do not eat natto so much. “I do not know any record by which the origin of tataki natto can be traced. However, it is thought that tataki natto was made from olden times as one of the basic ways of eating natto. “Today, natto-jiru is not popular for Japanese, so tataki natto is usually not sold. If you want to have natto-jiru, you need to mince natto by yourself.” Address: National Museum of Ethnology, Osaka, Japan. 1863. Jeyaram, K.; Mohendro Singh, W.; Premarani, T.; Ranjita Devi, A.; Selina Chanu, K.; Talukdar, N.C.; Rohinikumar Singh, M. 2008. Molecular identifi cation of dominant microfl ora associated with Hawaijar–a traditional fermented soybean food of Manipur, India. International J. of Food Microbiology 122(3):259-68. March 20. [29 ref] Address: 1. Microbiological Resources Div., Inst. of Bioresources and Sustainable Development (IBSD), Takyelpat Institutional Area [Manipur], India. 1864. Koblin, Seymour. 2008. Food for life: Applying Macrobiotic principles and practices to create vital health for body, mind, and spirit. Bloomington, Indiana: AuthorHouse. 180 p. Illust. (photos by Tyllie Barbosa). • Summary: Miso is mentioned on 23 pages. Natto is mentioned on pages 92-103, 127, 130, 137. Tofu is mentioned on pages 114, 126, 127. Address: HHP, PhD, School of Healing Arts, San Diego, California. 1865. Cook, David Edward, III. 2008. Assessing genetic and environmental infl uence on traits associated with natto quality. MSc thesis, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University (Blacksburg, Virginia). 120 p. May 20. 28 cm. Internet resource. [62 ref] • Summary: The Abstract begins: “Food grade soybean © Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012 HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 568 production is a high value alternative to conventional soybean use. The production of natto, a fermented soyfood, requires soybean cultivars that consistently express specifi c quality traits over a range of growing environments. Therefore, it is necessary to evaluate genetic and environmental infl uence for natto quality traits to ensure consistent performance... Genotype x environment interactions were signifi cant for all traits, but they did not confound selecting superior natto cultivars. Signifi cant environment and year effects indicate environmental sensitivity, but genotype rankings rarely changed. The results indicate that genotype was the most important factor controlling the natto quality traits tested. These results suggested breeding for superior natto cultivars is possible but environmental infl uence must be accounted and multi environment testing is necessary for natto quality evaluation.” Address: Blacksburg, Virginia. 1866. Liu, KeShun. 2008. Food use of whole soybeans. In: Lawrence A. Johnson et al. eds. 2008. Soybeans: Chemistry, Production, Processing, and Utilization. Urbana, Illinois: AOCS Press. viii + 842 p. See p. 441-481. Chap. 14. [85 ref] • Summary: Contents: Introduction. Non-fermented soyfoods: Soymilk (traditional soymilk, modern soymilk {techniques to reduce beany fl avors, formulation and fortifi cation, homogenization, thermal processing, and packaging}), tofu (preparation methods, factors involved in tofu-making {soybean varieties, storage and pretreatment, solids concentration, heating, type of coagulants, coagulant concentration, coagulation temperature, coagulation time, process automation, packaging}, varieties of tofu {silken tofu, regular and fi rm tofus, varieties of tofu products}), green vegetable soybeans, soybean sprouts, yuba, okara, roasted or cooked soybeans. Fermented soyfoods: Terms (Koji {fermentation, koji starter, inoculum}), fermented soy paste (preparation method {preparing rice koji, treating soybeans, mixing and mashing, fermenting, pasteurizing and packaging}, processing principles), soy sauce (preparation method {treating raw materials, koji making, brine fermentation, pressing, refi ning}, processing principles, chemical soy sauce), Japanese natto (preparation method, processing principles), Indonesia tempeh (processing method, processing principles), fermented soymilk, fermented tofu (preparation method, processing principles), fermented black soybeans (Chinese douchi, Japanese hamanatto). Conclusion. Figures show: (1) Flowchart of a traditional Chinese method for making soymilk and tofu. (2) Photo of savory tofu dices. (3) Photo of soy sprouts. (4) Photo of yuba (soymilk fi lm). (5) Photo of Chinese jiang and Japanese white and red miso. (6) Flow chart of a common method for making Japanese rice miso. (7) Photo of Japanese natto. (8) Flow chart of a traditional Indonesian method for making tempeh. (9) Photo of Chinese douchi (fermented black
soybeans or fermented whole soybeans). Address: Research Chemist, U.S. Dep. of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service, Grain Chemistry and Utilization Lab., Aberdeen, Idaho 83210. 1867. Chie no Kai. ed. 2008. Kyô no rekishi, bungaku o aruku [Walking through the history and literature of Kyoto]. Tokyo Japan: Bensei Shuppan. 314 p. See p. 61. [Jap]* • Summary: Page 61: Early books about natto are Shinsaru gakuki, written by Fujiwara no Akihira in the middle of Heian period, Oojorôu onna no koto, written in the end of Muromachi period, and Oyudono no ue no Nikki. Note: The Heian period in Japan lasted from AD 794 to 1185. The Muromachi period lasted from 1336 to 1573. The capital was Kyoto and the ruler was a shogun. Address: Japan. 1868. Mintz, Sidney W. 2008. Fermented beans and western taste. In: Christine M. Du Bois, C.-B. Tan, and S.W. Mintz, eds. 2008. Urbana, Illinois: University of Illinois Press. viii + 337 p. See p. 56-73. [37 ref] • Summary: Contents: Introduction. The distribution of fermented legumes in local food systems. The absence of fermented legumes from Western food history. The future of fermented legumes in the West. Address: Johns Hopkins Univ., USA, emeritus professor of anthropology.. 1869. Osborn, Donald Z. 2008. Soybeans and soybean products in West Africa: Adoption by farmers and adaptation to foodways. In: Christine M. Du Bois, C.-B. Tan, and S.W. Mintz, eds. 2008. Urbana, Illinois: University of Illinois Press. viii + 337 p. See p. 276-297. [48 ref] • Summary: Contents: Introduction. History. Growing soybeans in Africa. Soybeans as food. Soybeans for Daddawa. Bean curd. Soybeans and bean curd in Niger. Other local uses. Conclusion. Notes. A table (p. 277) shows the earliest documentation of soyfoods in West African countries. For each country is given the year fi rst noted and the source. The countries (listed alphabetically) are: Benin, Burkina Faso (former Upper Volta), Cameroon, Côte d’Ivoire, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Liberia, Mali, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal, Sierra Leone, and Togo. Note: Most of these dates and sources are identical to those published earlier in: Shurtleff, W.; Aoyagi, A. 1997. Soy in Africa: Bibliography and Sourcebook, 1857-1997. Lafayette, California. Soyfoods Center. The section on “daddawa” is very interesting and well annotated. “One relatively early and by now fairly common adaptation of soybeans to local foodways in West Africa has been its use as a substitute for seeds of the nèrè, or African locust bean tree (Parkia biglobosa).” The resulting condiment is known as daddawa (or dawa-dawa) in Hausa, sumbala in the Mande languages, and iru in Yoruba. The © Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012 HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 569 physical form of daddawa may appear as a small ball, a patty, or a cluster of ripened beans, “but it is always black in color and has a very pungent odor.” The product is traded widely from the areas of production. For example, some of the daddawa sold in markets in Niger was made in Nigeria. Making daddawa is traditionally a woman’s work; it is relatively labor intensive and consumes signifi cant amounts fi rewood [which in many areas is increasingly scarce]. The section titled “Bean curd” notes that a milestone in the effort to introduce tofu to West Africa took place when Osamu Nakayama, a soyfoods expert, was brought to Nigeria by the Japanese International Cooperation Agency (JICA) in 1989-91 to work with IITA in Ibadan. Working with local people, he saw the potential for making wagashi (also called wara in Yoruba [or warangashi in northern Benin]) the West African name of a soft unripened dairy cheese, from soybeans, curded with the traditional coagulant–the sap of the giant milkweed or Sodom apple tree (Calotropis procera). It took Nakayama six months of research to fi gure out how best to use the traditional African coagulant with soymilk. The resulting product is said to resemble the West African dairy cheese more than Asian tofu, yet it readily found its place as a substitute for the former. “It compared well with the cheese in fl avor and texture, but had the important advantage of being much less expensive to produce.” In the decade that followed, the making of African-style tofu spread largely on its own through the north of Nigeria and across the border into Niger, becoming an important new source of income for many women. As it spread, new soymilk coagulants “were identifi ed by local producers, notably water in which tamarind fruit had been left to soak and water from rinsing pounded pearl millet, left overnight” to sour. The section titled “Soybeans and bean curd in Niger” begins: “Soybeans have been subject to a limited amount of agronomic research in Niger and are not produced in any signifi cant amount.” Note: This implies that soybeans have been cultivated in Niger, although in small amounts. Endnote 14 states that there have been some ongoing soybean trials in the southern part of the Dosso region. According to American Peace Corps volunteers, tofu started to be made in about the year 2000 in the southern parts of the Zinder and Maradi regions. Since that time, tofu has been made and marketed in Niger using soybeans brought in from Nigeria, in many villages, towns, and markets, mainly in the Hausa-speaking north-central part of Niger. In 2001 it was possible to fi nd tofu in the weekly markets of local villages in these areas, fried and sold with hot red pepper spice. “By 2002 it was more ready available in the cities of Zinder and Maradi and was produced in Birnin’Konni in the Tahoua region. By 2003 it was available in Gaya, and by midyear it was also available in Dosso town in the Dosso region.”
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Copyright © 2012 by Soyinfo Center
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Contents Copyright © 2012 by Soyin
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What is natto? Natto is prepared (c
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1975 - In Natto Kenkosho (The Natto
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A&M = Agricultural and Mechanical A
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Pioneers - Individuals: Laszlo Berc
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DAWA-DAWA MADE IN WEST AFRICA FROM
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1. The legendary early discovery of
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However Kawakami and Kimura (1985)
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Yudôfu-Yudaufu: A food made from t
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the parcel.” See also letter abou
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you stir too much, the fi lm will n
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seen (June 2010) that uses the word
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of speech (n. = noun; v. = verb, et
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vegetable cheese, natto.” Bulleti
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soya casein or tofu, I infected 50
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of various Japanese soyfoods, inclu
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“Moromi: The grounds or lees left
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consumption. Domestic soybean produ
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p. 438-39] the microbes attached to
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Jenkins, Becke & Cosack, Kornauth.
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5 hours to render them very soft; t
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his ware and trampled it under foot
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[1843-1910] demonstrated clearly an
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of cases, viz., of marasmus and mal
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piculs; 1 picul = 132.277 pounds we
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USDA, USA. 88. Nature (La) (Paris).
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• Summary: From the Los Angeles T
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no other legume has produced, with
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101. New York Times.1912. Gives out
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table salt and several stimulants,
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and Surgeons, Baltimore, Maryland.
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Conclusion: The soybean originated
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cakes in the principal European cou
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e used successfully in the househol
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“the total digestible nutrients
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31): Coffee is known to be detrimen
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137. Itano, Arao. 1918. Soy beans (
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as an edible oil in the manufacture
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of natto]. Sapporo Norin Gakkaiho (
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(31) Test to maximize yield of prot
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have been among them. The soybean h
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manufacturing yields, digestibility
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two weeks in 1911 at the Arlington
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159. Oshima, Kokichi. 1923. Kôji-k
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manually at Madioen [Madiun, in Eas
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constituents of natto]. Nogaku Kaih
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New Product-Documentation: The Japa
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1922 April-The oil production depar
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Peking (at 86 Morrison Street, the
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alkalinity due to soda and potash,
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ean curd, green vegetable bean, soy
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had the pleasure of visiting the la
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Manchuria-Production. Estimate of t
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which soybeans are grown. Almost eq
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uses of soy oil and cake. The soybe
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Note 3. Cruz and West (1932, p. 78)
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cocoanut balls. For Nut fruitose: M
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soybeans in Portugal (1880 at the b
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in 1939, p. 339. The same character
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no baiyô-Zoku [Cultivation of natt
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256. Roux, Charles. 1941. Le soya [
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Dr. and veterinarian, villa Bel-Air
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2:77-83. [Jap]* 278. Niida, T.; Yas
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eginning titled (in Japanese charac
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a rich source of soybean varieties.
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the subculture media on the surviva
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selling fermented beans, which are
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iotin for growth, whereas the latte
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food for the future]. Ernaehrungs-U
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Science Section, this document may
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Agriculture, Hokkaido Univ., Sappor
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the nutritive value of natto and he
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are broiled, steamed, then put in a
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an processing, margarine and shorte
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in protein nutrition. The 45 resear
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Contents: Purpose of study. Method
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kisa ni tsuite (1) [On the formatio
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excellent for other types of cuisin
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473. Sakurai, K. 1964. The role and
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Physical properties and amino acid
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of fi gures. Map. Part I: Backgroun
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tofu dish. 70. Yudofu. 71. Miso. 72
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Rolling dry yuba. 164. Yuba on disp
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kakôhin no amino-san ni kansuru ke
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[shimi-dofu, kogori-dofu] (frozen t
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for lack of adequate markets for th
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type Ehrlich carcinoma cells. Chemi
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536. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, H.L. 1
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of “Co gamma-rays” on natto pre
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174-75). Grilled chicken with sweet
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Joan from Ener-G foods in Seattle],
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ascites carcinoma cells. “But whe
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76, at All Soul’s Day). Miso soup
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germination can be found within a 2
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cooked beans. (d) Cooking: Almost a
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If mechanical heat drying is to be
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hemicellulase from Bacillus subtili
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597. Hosking, Richard. 1972. A dict
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602. Nakao, Sasuke. 1972. Ryôri no
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Recently, Japanese scientists inclu
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Lecithin. Concerning tofu: Tofu mad
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author discusses tofu (and how to m
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practical concept and approach. Tha
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Rhizopus and Chlamydomucor strains
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contains the word “plasmids” (o
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are highly digestible because the b
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• Summary: Teriyaki sauce (p. 48)
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to Daraku nabe-Fukushima prefecture
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and modern soy protein products, th
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eturning to the Hamamatsu area in c
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each maker, there is one column for
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on “Basic ingredients,” is a su
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682. Liener, Irvin E. 1976. Nutriti
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Once you’ve tasted natto you can
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used extensively in Morocco; in fi
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in traditional foods, including rou
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pressurized steamer. Steam at 14.7
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© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012 HI
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selection of natto types. 5. To mak
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1960, 2 million tonnes in about 196
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soyfoods in the Western world.” N
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Pharmaceutical Society of Japan) 98
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Doshisha University) 19:22-30. [Jap
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2. Univ. of Maryland. 771. Kawakami
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The Book of Tofu. New York: Ballant
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Vegetable Protein Food Assoc., 9th
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of Japan (Nippon Sakumotsu Gakkai K
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present and future. Based on an art
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• Summary: Contains a nice illust
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egional name. Shiro miso: white (or
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characters: Name of marketing compa
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milk curd), aburage (fried tofu pou
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and Worcestershire sauce in England
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products (soy fl ours, soy isolates
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Bacillus natto, Bacillus subtilis,
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epresenting roughly 2,000 soybean v
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protein in tons/year. In 1971/1977
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1989-Nattosan. MG-0. Developed by A
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Tofu Assoc., Federation of Japan Na
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(miso) is plentiful. Soy sprouts ar
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chocolate), soybeans, soymilk (soym
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Natto Dip: Mix together 2 cups tofu
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911. Parker, Joyce. 1982. Re: Soyfo
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Junsei Yamazaki came to the USA in
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in California; her cooking has been
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(Deep fried) Tofu burgers-Tofuburge
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(both line drawings and simple brus
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shijitsu no kagaku seibun sosei oyo
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Food Science and Technology. See p.
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and Hokkaido (25,908). The source o
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introduced it to the Natto Assoc. i
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History of miso in Europe: Early Eu
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unning a family business cleaning t
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Note: This is the earliest English-
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illustrations. Shows how to make na
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green soybeans, soybean sprouts, so
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oil, shortening oil, cooking and sa
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tau-foo, dou-fu, dau-fu). Soybean f
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Shokuhin) is a member of the Japane
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It is good boiled, grilled, or frie
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• Summary: Discusses: Ryoji Nakaz
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Gakkaishi (J. of the Japanese Socie
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Date of Introduction: 1984. Ingredi
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soy fl our, whole soy fl our, soybe
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death rate from stomach cancer, str
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salt or soy bean paste / miso. Hiya
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1084. Aoki, Sadao. 1985. Nattô oyo
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Vegetarian Times. Aug. p. 33-40. No
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[Studies on natto. III. Change in t
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1116. Watanabe, Sugio. 1985. [Manuf
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and stews and will keep well in the
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Ryûgakuchû no Tai kagakusha keika
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appropriate to redefi ne the term p
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ground red pepper, is a unique food
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and value of tofu consumed per hous
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tofu (fuyu). For each food the foll
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170,000 tons of dawadawa are made.
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from natto Bacilli and Bacilli from
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ecovered consistently from 5 sample
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discusses soy sauce, konbu and nori
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From 1984 onwards it will require 2
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upon.” Address: [California]. 120
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an interest in tempeh: Mr. Katoh we
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production of Plasmin, further help
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The present expansion of soybeans i
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Shokuryo Gakkai-shi (J. of the Japa
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vegetable), katsuobushi (dried boni
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• Summary: The contents of this a
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Manufacturer’s Address: Tochigi-k
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USA and Europe, and concluded that
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Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyf
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• Summary: Recently, Montague Far
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(Therapeutics)]. UF Phosphatidylcho
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Hawaii, May 11-14, 1986. [20 ref]
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companies have started in America s
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Japanese), published in 1590 by Li
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1318. SoyaScan Notes.1989. Terms re
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to Ken Bader, Steve Drake, and Marl
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Hamilton, Ontario, formerly owned b
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Soybean buyers mission from new mar
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Page 22 shows two annotated illustr
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served hot or cold. There was cold
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There are presently an estimated 5,
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increase soybean sales to Japan. Ag
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(“fermented soybeans”) are all
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Mein jin pau [mien jin pau] (China)
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River). 5. Biochemistry involved in
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ecognition and support to [living m
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tempeh. Preparation time-less than
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mainly for use by the American Soyb
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added salt, but 125 milligrams of s
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laboured for 20 years attempting to
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(new product)]. Oct. 1. p. 13. [Jap
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was estimated at 500 tons), but in
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natto, both legendary and documente
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in the USA than it is in Japan), na
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trading company, but he doesn’t r
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The pH of kinema is distinctly alka
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In the Far East, the soybean is con
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mortars, big iron cauldrons and man
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Statistical Yearbook, Statistical O
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Japanese soys and 50% Harovinton so
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Letter (e-mail) from Naomichi Ishig
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of pounded soybeans mixed with wate
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of North Bengal, NBU 734430, Distri
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1522. United Soybean Board. 1995. S
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kinema was similar. Address: 1. Mic
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• Summary: In the section titled
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The physico-chemical properties of
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deserve greater attention by CELSS
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1558. Product Name: [Tsumami Dry Na
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ef] • Summary: On the cover is wr
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the time and he knows the whole sto
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increasingly popular in the United
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an. Adapted from Shi and Ren (1993)
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after two weeks in the pot at summe
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Chinese-American lady, it served a
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The Book Publishing Co.) appears on
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and use chemical fertilizers. In ab
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far-sighted man, especially when it
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kedele, taugeh. Japan: daizu no moy
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from American consumers, and may wa
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umeboshi concentrate, wakame, yuba.
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1100 B.C. to the present, and more
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to composition, nutrients, or inten
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history (p. 15-17). Azuki beans (p.
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Erewhon when the bin was fi nished.
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Page 533 and 534: © Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012 HI
Page 535 and 536: once a week, or for a prolonged per
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Page 551 and 552: [Jap]* • Summary: Juvenile fi cti
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Page 557 and 558: 1821. Gandhi, A.P. 2006. The ‘gre
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Page 561 and 562: titled “Other real foods,” the
Page 563 and 564: pages angled slightly back on a tab
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Page 567: = 34. Lepcha 1.4 gm ± 2.4 gm. N =
Page 573 and 574: A restaurant package (7 oz. tray) i
Page 575 and 576: On pages 3-4 is an interesting desc
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Page 583 and 584: a mound of chungkokjang. (9a) The f
Page 585 and 586: Dietary cultures and antiquity of f
Page 587 and 588: consumption of whole (unpeeled) pot
Page 589 and 590: Campo. 33. Jacqueline Tao. 2009 Aug
Page 591 and 592: When asked to develop recipes for a
Page 593 and 594: (1932-33)? Ohta mentioned this. 17.
Page 595 and 596: Africa-Morocco, Kingdom of (Includi
Page 597 and 598: Archaeology and Archaeological Disc
Page 599 and 600: Thereafter). 102, 1312 Asia, East-S
Page 601 and 602: Berczeller, Laszlo. 184, 200, 216,
Page 603 and 604: Cape Verde. See Africa-Cape Verde o
Page 605 and 606: 695, 700, 706, 732, 765, 768, 771,
Page 607 and 608: Formerly spelled Du Pont. 1606 Earl
Page 609 and 610: seen concerning soybeans in a certa
Page 611 and 612: 239, 250, 354, 484, 536, 572, 935,
Page 613 and 614: 1640 Green Vegetable Soybeans-Marke
Page 615 and 616: Home economics movement. See Domest
Page 617 and 618: Information. See Libraries with a S
Page 619 and 620:
Koji, Red Rice. (Also Called Fermen
Page 621 and 622:
701, 711, 993, 1353 Lipids-Effects
Page 623 and 624:
Mexico. See Latin America, Central
Page 625 and 626:
Mushroom ketchup. See Ketchup, Mush
Page 627 and 628:
1416, 1423, 1460, 1499, 1500, 1503,
Page 629 and 630:
Functional Foods or Nutraceuticals,
Page 631 and 632:
1647, 1660, 1714, 1719, 1721, 1745,
Page 633 and 634:
Restaurants, Japanese, outside Japa
Page 635 and 636:
as an Oilseed, Sesame Flour, and Se
Page 637 and 638:
Soy Ice Cream-Non-Soy Non-Dairy Rel
Page 639 and 640:
Soy fl our, roasted. See Roasted so
Page 641 and 642:
Soybean Varieties USA-Butterball-Ea
Page 643 and 644:
Soyfoods Movement-Periodicals, Incl
Page 645 and 646:
Statistics on soybean yields. See Y
Page 647 and 648:
553, 564, 593, 620, 621, 658, 668,
Page 649 and 650:
Tofurei Svadesha Naturkost Produkte
Page 651 and 652:
United States-States-Oklahoma. 119,
Page 653 and 654:
Use Dairy Products or Eggs. 644, 94
Page 655 and 656:
Yellow Winged Bean (Psophocarpus te
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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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