History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

(“fermented soybeans”) are all examples of soybean products
(daizu seihin) (p. 139).
In the section on Nimono–”Poached dishes” is a recipe
for yuba and kikurage (“Soak 2 oz. yuba and cut into 1-inch
pieces,” p. 186).
Concerning tonyu (soymilk): It is mentioned only in the
recipe for homemade tofu–using “2 cups daizu (soybeans)
and ½ teaspoon nigari (coagulant)” (p. 142-43). Address:
Former owner and head chef, Domo restaurant, Denver,
Colorado. Founder and chief instructor Nippon Kan Aikido
and Cultural Center, Denver, Colorado.
1400. Homma, Gaku. 1991. Natto (Document part I). In:
Gaku Homma. 1991. The Folk Art of Japanese Country
Cooking: A Traditional Diet for Today’s World. Translated
by Emily Busch. Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books.
xii + 270 p.
• Summary: This is a remarkable book by a remarkable man,
with many deep insights into both traditional and modern
cultures in Japan and the USA; it gives a unique, authentic
view of Japanese culture, and makes liberal use of the
Japanese names for things, such as food, utensils, techniques,
houses, etc. He uses the Japanese words fi rst, then explains
what they mean (in parentheses) in English. Thus the book
makes it easy and enjoyable to learn Japanese food-related
words. Moreover, the book is brimming with interesting
information about traditional soyfoods in Japan.
This record will focus on natto, which originated in
Japan in the northeastern provinces (Tohoku Chiho) where
the author lived.
In the index (p. 276), under “Soybean products (daizu
seihin),” he defi nes three different types of natto: (1)
Fermented soybeans (natto). (2) Slightly crushed natto
(hikiwari natto). (3) Whole bean natto (tsubu natto). He
notes that natto is discussed mainly on page 139.
In Chapter 3, “The background of Japanese staple
foods,” in the section titled “Products used daily” (p. 94-
100) is a subsection on “Natto–Fermented soybeans” (p.
97): “Natto is a very popular item on the Japanese breakfast
table, but either you love it or you hate it; there is no middle
ground. Natto is boiled soybeans that have been fermented
by introducing the natto fungus [sic, natto bacterium,
Bacillus subtilis]. Open a package of natto and the fi rst
thing to hit you is a very strange aroma. If you stir it, it
becomes sticky. Someone watching this might say ‘yech.’
The translator of this book, Emily, is one of these people.
Although she has lived in Japan and traveled extensively in
Southeast Asia, she says ‘Natto is not for me.’
“Like the tofu peddler, the natto peddler came every
morning. Now natto is available throughout Japan, but in the
past, because of the growing conditions needed to produce it,
many people had not eaten natto in southern Japan. Some of
the visitors I have had at Nippon Kan, especially the young
[Japanese] visitors who lived south of Osaka, had never
© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2012
HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 431
tasted natto.
“The weather in northern Japan is favorable for the natto
fungus [sic]. Traditionally it was common for the farmers to
make their own natto at home. I have tasted homemade natto
from many different parts of Japan. Like most traditional
foods, the taste and texture varies depending on the location
and the family recipe.
“The fi rst natto was discovered, it is thought, when
soybeans stored for safekeeping became contaminated
with water and created the appropriate environment for the
natto fungus [sic]. Historically, many Japanese foods were
discovered accidentally, such as in the course of storing or
preserving foods.
“Since its initial discovery, the process has been isolated
and developed in a controlled procedure.
“To eat natto, pour it from its container into a bowl and
stir vigorously with chopsticks until it turns sticky. Then
add miso or tamari and shoyu or umeboshi (pickled plums)
to suit your taste. Spoon it over rice and eat. Although some
people may not agree, I fi nd it tasty.
“I met a very old woman in Denver [Colorado, USA]
who was a wonderful traditional Japanese cook. She knew
all of the techniques for making homemade sake, natto,
tofu, umeboshi and tsukemono–everything in her kitchen
was homemade. Sometimes this old woman would make
natto and bring it to my home. It did not taste like the natto
available in grocery stores. She fermented the soybeans in
a styrofoam cup using plastic bread wrappers for a cover.
She then wrapped the cups in layers of crumpled newspaper
as insulation to keep them warm. So you see, traditional
Japanese methods can have a place in modern America.”
In Chapter 5, “Country meals,” the section titled
“Breakfast (Choshoku)” (p. 120-58) notes (p. 121-22): “The
most simple breakfast includes ichihan, ichiju, and issai,
which means one bowl of rice, one bowl of soup, and one
side dish. This simple breakfast is served during religious
training, eaten for four or fi ve days consecutively before a
fast, or eaten to change one’s diet or to lose weight.
“Prior to a fast, this meal is served in less and less
quantity until the fi rst day of the fast when okayu [rice
porridge] is served... Traditionally, the ichihan or meshi
(cooking rice) used for the breakfast meal is brown rice or
barley or 60% white rice mixed with 40% barley. The ichiju
is either kombu- or shiitake-based miso soup or a clear
soup. The misoshiru (miso soup) contains a good balance
of tofu and vegetables. There are many issai (called okazu)
but they can be divided into the following basic categories:
tsukemono (a variety of vegetables pickled with miso, salt,
shoyu, or nuka (rice bran)); ohitashi (a variety of vegetables
boiled quickly and fl avored with shoyu); daizu seihin (tofu,
fried tofu cutlets, grilled tofu, natto and other soybean
products); yakimono (fi sh grilled either plain or marinated in
shoyu, miso, sakekasu {rice wine lees}, or nuka); and jobina
(a variety of dishes prepared and stored in the refrigerator to