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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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cooked beans.<br />

(d) Cooking: Almost all cooking is presently done in<br />

steam-trapping pressurized vats, 60 kg (4 tô) capacity, 70<br />

kg (5 tô) capacity <strong>and</strong> 120 kg (6 tô) capacity vats being<br />

equipment in st<strong>and</strong>ard use. See Fig. 8.3 (photo <strong>of</strong> pressure<br />

cooker). Gradually, more <strong>and</strong> more stainless steel vats are<br />

coming into use. The newest vats are cylindrical with h<strong>and</strong> or<br />

electric-powered mechanisms for rotating the drum, thus not<br />

only eliminating any unevenness <strong>of</strong> cooking <strong>and</strong> facilitating<br />

removal <strong>of</strong> the cooked beans, but also occasionally allowing<br />

for the natto bacteria inoculation to occur in the vat with<br />

the following step <strong>of</strong> mixing accomplished by rotating the<br />

drum. In cooking, the pressure inside the vat is allowed to<br />

reach 1 to 1.5 kg/cm squared, <strong>and</strong> maintained at that level for<br />

20-30 minutes, after which time the pressure cook is opened<br />

slightly to allow the pressure to fall.<br />

(e) <strong>Natto</strong> bacteria inoculation <strong>and</strong> packing: The natto<br />

bacteria used is that sold directly from the specialist<br />

manufacturer <strong>of</strong> inoculant bacteria, available in either liquid<br />

or powdered form, though both contain approximately 1-10 x<br />

10 7 natto bacteria spores per gram. Usually 5 gm <strong>of</strong> inoculant<br />

bacteria diluted in 3-5 liters <strong>of</strong> sterilized water is used per<br />

60 kg <strong>of</strong> soybeans. The normal method <strong>of</strong> inoculation is to<br />

sprinkle the dilute bacterial solution or to pour it with a ladle<br />

over the cooked beans while they are still 80ºC or above.<br />

Figures show: 8.1 Flowchart <strong>of</strong> natto production. Tables<br />

show: 8.3 Soybean characteristics by size <strong>and</strong> by growing<br />

region. The regions are: Koganeshiro: Tokachi, Kitami,<br />

Kitamishiro: Takachi, Kitami. Tokachi-nagaha: Tokachi.<br />

For each sub-region are given fi gures for large, medium,<br />

<strong>and</strong> small soybeans–15 in all. For each <strong>of</strong> the 15 soybean<br />

types, the following fi gures are given: Distribution by bean<br />

size (percentage; totals 100% for each region). Seed to coat<br />

ratio. Weight per 1,000 beans (gm) (ranges from 272 to 131).<br />

Water absorbency (%) after 8 hours, 15 hours, <strong>and</strong> 24 hours.<br />

Percentage <strong>of</strong> eluted solids (yôshitsu kokei-bun) after 24<br />

hours. Note: Elution is a term used in analytical <strong>and</strong> organic<br />

chemistry to describe the process <strong>of</strong> extracting one material<br />

from another by washing with a solvent.<br />

Table 8.4. Soybean composition by size <strong>and</strong> by growing<br />

region. The 3 regions <strong>and</strong> 5 sub-regions are the same as<br />

in table 8.2. For each <strong>of</strong> the 15 soybean types is given<br />

percentage <strong>of</strong> moisture, protein, fat, carbohydrate, ash, total<br />

sugars (zentô). Continued. Address: National Food Research<br />

Inst., Tokyo.<br />

581. Watanabe, Tokuji; Ebine, Hideo; Ohta, Teruo. eds.<br />

1971. Nattô [<strong>Natto</strong>]. In: Tokuji Watanabe, H. Ebine <strong>and</strong> T.<br />

Ohta, eds. 1971. Daizu Shokuhin [Soyfoods]. Tokyo: Korin<br />

Shoin. 271 p. See p. 123-38. [Jap; eng+]<br />

• Summary: Continued. As soon as inoculation is completed,<br />

a st<strong>and</strong>ard measure <strong>of</strong> the cooked beans is immediately<br />

packed into containers. This packing step is the step lagging<br />

most behind mechanization in natto’s production process.<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 199<br />

Although an automatic measuring <strong>and</strong> packaging machine to<br />

pack a st<strong>and</strong>ard measure <strong>of</strong> the cooked beans into containers<br />

without harm will no doubt be developed someday, at present<br />

this step is largely done by h<strong>and</strong>. One reason is that the<br />

containers used are specialized <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> many types.<br />

(f) Containers: The packaging containers for natto<br />

are made <strong>of</strong> straw, then wood sheets, man-made paper,<br />

polyethylene, high-density polyethylene (a kind <strong>of</strong> HDPE,<br />

haizekkusu = Hai-Zex, developed by Suzuki Chemical Co.),<br />

polystyrene, etc. alone or in combination. Although with<br />

straw <strong>and</strong> wood sheeting, there are problems <strong>of</strong> sanitation<br />

caused by the presence <strong>of</strong> many unwanted bacteria, the<br />

image <strong>of</strong> simplicity presented by such materials is well suited<br />

to a traditional food such as natto, <strong>and</strong> many consumers like<br />

such packaging. Thus, straw <strong>and</strong> wood sheeting are used,<br />

having been sterilized fi rst.<br />

(g) Fermentation chamber: Up until a few years ago,<br />

natto was made in insulated double-wall fermentation<br />

chambers, the temperature being controlled by charcoal fi re<br />

or electric heat, <strong>and</strong> the moisture level being maintained by<br />

boiling water in the chamber, but since the development <strong>of</strong><br />

automatic natto production equipment, natto can now be<br />

made without the constant care that was formerly required.<br />

The principle behind this change <strong>of</strong> improved insulation,<br />

thus accommodating <strong>and</strong> averaging <strong>of</strong> fermentation chamber<br />

interior temperature <strong>and</strong> moisture levels.<br />

The natto bacteria on the cooked beans germinate<br />

around the optimum temperature <strong>of</strong> 40ºC. At this time,<br />

heat is not yet produced by fermentation, so a pilot light<br />

is used to prevent the chamber temperature from falling<br />

below 40ºC. Some 4-6 hours after placement in the<br />

chamber, a fermentative heat accompanying the natto<br />

bacteria preparation arises, <strong>and</strong> both the temperature <strong>of</strong><br />

the product <strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> the chamber increase. The equipment<br />

is set so that cooling will come on during this time if the<br />

chamber temperature rises to 42-45ºC <strong>and</strong> above. Within<br />

approximately 6-8 hours, the product temperature climbs<br />

to 50-53ºC. After several hours at this temperature, the<br />

product temperature is cooled to external air temperature<br />

<strong>and</strong> fermentation is stopped approximately 14-18 hours after<br />

placement in the chamber. To prevent the moisture level in<br />

the fermentation chamber from reaching the dew point under<br />

the forced-air cooling, care is taken to prevent excessively<br />

moist air from being cycled into the chamber.<br />

(h) Storage <strong>and</strong> transport: Once fermentation is<br />

completed, the natto is taken out <strong>of</strong> the fermentation<br />

chamber, cooled to 10ºC <strong>and</strong> below in a cooling chamber <strong>and</strong><br />

then shipped. In case it is not to be shipped it is kept at 2-7ºC<br />

in a refrigeration room.<br />

(i) <strong>Natto</strong> production results: The ingredient soybeans<br />

vary somewhat, but 100 parts soybeans will produce 220<br />

parts cooked soybeans <strong>and</strong> 200 parts natto.<br />

8.1.6 Compositional changes in the soybean during the<br />

natto production process: (a) Chemical change: As natto

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