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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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(#50). [50+ ref. Jap]<br />

• Summary: Koji means “ancient things” or “origins.” Rui<br />

means “varieties” or “description.” En means “dictionary.”<br />

This is one <strong>of</strong> the best books for doing historical research on<br />

Japanese culture, including foods. The book is divided into<br />

30 major subject areas, such as Food <strong>and</strong> Drink. Within that<br />

section all basic Japanese foods <strong>and</strong> beverages are listed.<br />

After each one is listed many <strong>of</strong> the important early works in<br />

which that food is mentioned, with a quote <strong>of</strong> what is said.<br />

Furigana are used liberally to assist with pronunciations<br />

<strong>of</strong> hard-to-pronounce early document names <strong>and</strong> terms.<br />

Compiled from 1896 to 1914, volume 1 <strong>of</strong> the original<br />

edition is dated 1908. The works cited are from ancient times<br />

to 1867. The fi nal volume is an index to the whole.<br />

The volume on Food <strong>and</strong> Drink is titled Inshoku-bu (Vol.<br />

51). Whole soybeans, p. 229-35. Black soybeans, p. 235-<br />

36. Green soybeans (ao-daizu), p. 236-37. Green vegetable<br />

soybeans (edamame), p. 239-40. Soybean cultivation, p.<br />

240-42. Soybean utilization, p. 243-47. Daizu-ko Mochi,<br />

p. 555. Amazake, p. 695-97. Shirozake, p. 697-98. Hishio<br />

(Chiang), p. 836-40. Shoyu, p. 840-49. Miso, p. 851-68.<br />

Kuki (fermented black soybeans), p. 868-71. <strong>Natto</strong>, p. 871-<br />

74. T<strong>of</strong>u (incl. Dengaku), p. 984-1005. Yuba, p. 995-96.<br />

97. Sawer, E.R. 1911. Cedara memoirs on South African<br />

Agriculture. Vol. II. Containing reports on feeding<br />

crops <strong>and</strong> livestock experiments in South Africa. Natal/<br />

Pietermartizburg, South Africa. 371 p. See p. 131, 177, 183-<br />

218. Report X. The Legumes as Grain <strong>and</strong> Oil Crops: Soya<br />

Beans. [15 ref]<br />

• Summary: A superb, early overview <strong>of</strong> soybeans <strong>and</strong> their<br />

uses in South Africa <strong>and</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong>. Contents: An agricultural<br />

romance. Early experiments with the soya bean [in Europe<br />

<strong>and</strong> South Africa]. Export trade from Manchuria. The<br />

course <strong>of</strong> prices. Consumption in Great Britain. Botanical<br />

character. The commercial aspect. <strong>History</strong> <strong>of</strong> the oil market<br />

during 1910. The adaptability <strong>of</strong> the bean. Germination<br />

<strong>of</strong> seed. Climatic requirements. Classifi cation <strong>of</strong> varieties.<br />

Variety tests at Cedara: Black seeded (Buckshot <strong>and</strong> Nuttall<br />

tested in 1906), brown seeded, green seeded (Samarow <strong>and</strong><br />

Guelph), yellow seeded (Mammoth <strong>and</strong> Hollybrook, planted<br />

Nov. 1908). The cultivation <strong>of</strong> the crop. Times <strong>of</strong> planting.<br />

Distances <strong>of</strong> planting. Manure experiments at Cedara.<br />

Nodule formation <strong>and</strong> composition <strong>of</strong> the plant. Harvesting<br />

soya beans. Storage <strong>of</strong> seed. Comparative yields <strong>of</strong> grain.<br />

Soya bean oil. Uses <strong>of</strong> the oil [for cooking, paint, soap, etc.].<br />

Soya beans as human food (incl. natto, t<strong>of</strong>u, miso, yuba,<br />

shoyu {p. 209-11}). Digestion experiments [on humans in<br />

Japan]. Milling experiments. Soya beans as stock food <strong>and</strong><br />

fertiliser. Live-stock experiments. Soya cake as fertiliser.<br />

Soya bean as green forage.<br />

Concerning industrial utilization: The Vice-Consul-<br />

General at Yokohama writes that “the annual value <strong>of</strong><br />

fertilisers employed in this country (Japan) amounts on an<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 64<br />

average to about £8,000,000 represented in equal proportions<br />

by artifi cial fertilisers <strong>and</strong> soya bean cake.” The year 1908<br />

was exceptional, however, in that the value <strong>of</strong> the bean cake<br />

was 3.5 times that <strong>of</strong> the artifi cial fertilizers.<br />

During 1910 the linseed oil reached its highest price<br />

in 50 years. Soya oil, now produced in large amounts in<br />

Manchuria after the Russo-Japanese war took its place. It<br />

was used in making paints, c<strong>and</strong>les, <strong>and</strong> soaps. “Soya bean<br />

oil has been found eminently suitable for the soap-makers’<br />

purpose on account <strong>of</strong> its low content <strong>of</strong> free fatty acids <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>of</strong> unsaponifi able matter or impurities. In the latter respect<br />

it has been shown superior to any <strong>of</strong> the other oils or fats<br />

<strong>of</strong> commerce, whether <strong>of</strong> vegetable or animal origin. The<br />

glycerine, which is secured as a by-product <strong>of</strong> soap <strong>and</strong><br />

c<strong>and</strong>le manufacture, is subsequently distilled for explosives,<br />

such as dynamite, blasting gelatine, cordite, etc., <strong>and</strong> for<br />

various purposes in the arts, for fi lling gas-metres, for the<br />

manufacture <strong>of</strong> inks, printers’ rollers, etc. The residue from<br />

the distillation <strong>of</strong> glycerine is used in the manufacture <strong>of</strong><br />

boot blacking.”<br />

Concerning germination (p. 191): At Cedara: “The<br />

fi rst crop was planted in 1903, <strong>and</strong> a maximum yield <strong>of</strong><br />

920 lb. <strong>of</strong> grain obtained per acre. In the following season,<br />

characterized by unfavourable weather conditions, the<br />

heaviest yield on a new series <strong>of</strong> plots was 780 lb. per acre. A<br />

third season’s trial on the same ground, however, witnessed<br />

a marked increase with local seed, the heaviest crop totalling<br />

1,252 lb. <strong>of</strong> grain.”<br />

Concerning soybean cultivation in British colonies<br />

in Africa (p. 192): “Early last summer the late Sir Alfred<br />

Jones shipped to West Africa soya beans for experimental<br />

purposes, <strong>and</strong> it was subsequently reported by Mr. A.G.<br />

Turner, who was entrusted with a special mission to<br />

encourage this culture on the west coast, that the soya bean<br />

could be successfully cultivated throughout the Gambia,<br />

Sierra Leone, Nigeria, <strong>and</strong> the Gold Coast Colony, but that<br />

the yield to the fi rst experiment had only been from six to<br />

eight bushels per acre, there having been a considerable loss<br />

owing to faulty germination. Later results, however, were<br />

phenomenally successful.”<br />

Concerning soybean trials in South Africa (p. 192-93):<br />

“During the past year favourable results have been received<br />

from Umzinto [from Messrs. Archibald <strong>and</strong> Co., 52 miles<br />

south <strong>of</strong> Durban; elevation 300 feet], Nel’s Rust Estate [64<br />

miles north <strong>of</strong> Durban; elevation 2,710 feet], Nottingham<br />

Road [elevation 4,807 feet], <strong>and</strong> Naval Hill [Mr. J.R.T.<br />

Clouston <strong>of</strong> Garrow planted a few acres in 1908], Colenso<br />

[elevation 3,200 feet], <strong>and</strong> Cedara [82 miles by rail from<br />

Durban; elevation 3,540 feet; a number <strong>of</strong> varieties were<br />

tested in 1906] in Natal; <strong>and</strong> from Barberton <strong>and</strong> Pretoria in<br />

the Transvaal.”<br />

Concerning comparative yields (p. 203): “As a grain<br />

producer, the soya bean compares very favourably with other<br />

leguminous crops, such as fi eld beans, peas, etc. At Cedara

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