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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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101. New York Times.1912. Gives out secrets <strong>of</strong> making<br />

ammonia. Sept. 12. p. 6.<br />

• Summary: An overview <strong>of</strong> the Eighth International<br />

Congress <strong>of</strong> Applied Chemistry, held in New York City at the<br />

Horace Mann Auditorium.<br />

The section titled “<strong>Natto</strong>, a cheese” states: “S.<br />

Muramatsu <strong>of</strong> the College <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Morioka, Japan,<br />

read an interesting paper on natto. <strong>Natto</strong> is a vegetable<br />

cheese much used in Japan. It is made by fermenting boiled<br />

soya beans wrapped in rice straw <strong>and</strong> set in a warm cellar<br />

for one or two days. It is consumed as ‘an accessory,’<br />

(by which Dr. Muramatsu apparently means a relish or<br />

condiment,) after having been mixed with table salt <strong>and</strong><br />

several stimulants ‘amongst others the powdered mustard is<br />

preferred.’<br />

“It is, according to the Doctor, a very good <strong>and</strong><br />

economical foodstuff, rich in protein, <strong>and</strong> particularly<br />

valuable to the Japanese because <strong>of</strong> their large dependance<br />

on rice, which is almost entirely carbohydrate.”<br />

102. Li, Yu-ying; Gr<strong>and</strong>voinnet, L. 1912. Le soja: Sa<br />

culture. Ses usages alimentaires, thérapeutiques, agricoles et<br />

industriels [The soybean: <strong>Its</strong> culture. <strong>Its</strong> food, therapeutic,<br />

agricultural, <strong>and</strong> industrial uses]. Paris: Augustin Challamel<br />

(Rue Jacob 17). 150 p. Illust. Index. 25 cm. Translated into<br />

French <strong>and</strong> exp<strong>and</strong>ed from the Chinese edition, published<br />

by la Societé Biologique d’Extréme-Orient (1910). [151 ref.<br />

Fre]<br />

• Summary: One <strong>of</strong> the earliest, most important, infl uential,<br />

creative, interesting, <strong>and</strong> carefully researched books ever<br />

written about soybeans <strong>and</strong> soyfoods. <strong>Its</strong> bibliography on soy<br />

was larger than any published prior to that time. It was fi rst<br />

published as a series <strong>of</strong> eight articles in Agriculture Pratique<br />

des Pays Chauds (Bulletin du Jardin Colonial) from<br />

September 1911 to April 1912. Before being published as a<br />

book, it was revised slightly by adding a table <strong>of</strong> contents at<br />

the back, dividing the material into 5 parts with 19 chapters,<br />

<strong>and</strong> adding several photos (p. 16-17), a world map showing<br />

the distribution <strong>of</strong> soybean cultivation (p. 21), <strong>and</strong> an<br />

interesting 2-page table (p. 66-67).<br />

Contents: The soybean: Origin <strong>and</strong> history. Part I:<br />

Soybean culture. 1. Species <strong>and</strong> varieties <strong>of</strong> soybeans:<br />

Botanical characteristics, species, varieties (Chinese,<br />

Japanese, Indian, Indochinese, Hawaiian, USA, European).<br />

2. Needs <strong>of</strong> the soybean: Climatic, geographical area <strong>of</strong><br />

the soybean by region worldwide, agrological/soil needs,<br />

fertilizers, soil preparation, the place <strong>of</strong> the soybean in crop<br />

rotations. 3. Soybean seeds: Study <strong>of</strong> seeds (by weight,<br />

by germination rate, selection <strong>of</strong> seeds), time <strong>of</strong> planting,<br />

plant spacing, depth <strong>of</strong> seeding, rate <strong>of</strong> seeding per hectare,<br />

method <strong>of</strong> seeding (broadcasting, in rows, in mounds).<br />

4. The soybean during its vegetative stage: Germination,<br />

transplanting, types <strong>of</strong> care (e.g., second dressings),<br />

irrigation, fl owering <strong>and</strong> fruiting, enemies <strong>of</strong> the soybean<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 67<br />

(e.g., insects). 5. Harvest <strong>of</strong> soybeans: Time for harvest<br />

(forage or grain), methods <strong>of</strong> harvesting (forage or grain;<br />

mechanical mower), threshing (use <strong>of</strong> machine), yields <strong>of</strong><br />

soybeans (forage <strong>and</strong> grain in various countries, ratio <strong>of</strong><br />

seeds harvested to straw is about 1 to 2, yield <strong>of</strong> nutrients).<br />

6. Fixation <strong>of</strong> atmospheric nitrogen by soybeans, <strong>and</strong><br />

improvement <strong>of</strong> the soil. 7. The soybean in mixed cultures<br />

<strong>and</strong> alternate rows: With corn, cowpeas, rice, sweet sorghum,<br />

or millet.<br />

Part II: Chemical composition <strong>of</strong> the soybean. 1.<br />

Composition <strong>of</strong> the plant: Minerals in the leaves <strong>and</strong><br />

total plant. 2. Study <strong>of</strong> the seed: Composition, chemical<br />

composition, microscopic comparisons, table <strong>of</strong> analyses by<br />

28 previous researchers, albumins, sugars, starch, dextrin or<br />

dextrine, diastase, lipids, ash/minerals.<br />

Part III: The soybean as human food <strong>and</strong> animal feed.<br />

1. The soybean as feed for animals: Green forage <strong>and</strong> hay.<br />

2. The soybean in human feeding: From the viewpoints <strong>of</strong><br />

physiology, economy, <strong>and</strong> gastronomy. The role <strong>of</strong> soya in<br />

special diets: Vegetarianism, remineralization, diabetic, <strong>and</strong><br />

lactose intolerant.<br />

Part IV: Food products based on soya. 1. Soymilk <strong>and</strong><br />

its derivatives: Soymilk (Methods <strong>of</strong> manufacture, Chinese<br />

<strong>and</strong> modern at l’Usine de la Caséo-Sojaïne, nature <strong>and</strong><br />

properties [physical <strong>and</strong> chemical] <strong>and</strong> composition <strong>of</strong> the<br />

milk, action <strong>of</strong> ferments <strong>and</strong> diastases (enzymes) on the<br />

milk, uses <strong>of</strong> the milk, the residue from the soy dairy [okara],<br />

condensed soymilk, powdered soymilk, fermented soymilk<br />

(kefi r, yogurt, etc.)), t<strong>of</strong>u (called Caséo-Sojaïne, or fromage<br />

de soya; methods <strong>of</strong> production, coagulants, yield <strong>of</strong> t<strong>of</strong>u,<br />

storing t<strong>of</strong>u, composition <strong>and</strong> comparison with various<br />

meats, digestibility, culinary preparations made from t<strong>of</strong>u<br />

(smoked t<strong>of</strong>u, t<strong>of</strong>u pâté, t<strong>of</strong>u sausages)), Soy casein (food<br />

<strong>and</strong> industrial uses). 2. Soy fl our <strong>and</strong> its derivatives: Soy<br />

fl our, soy bread, wholemeal bread, other products based<br />

on soy fl our (as biscuits <strong>and</strong> cakes for diabetic diets). 3.<br />

Soy oil <strong>and</strong> its by-products: Soy oil, physical <strong>and</strong> chemical<br />

properties, usage, residue <strong>of</strong> the oil mill: the cake, price,<br />

uses. 4. Use <strong>of</strong> the soybean as a legume: Whole soybeans<br />

(composition <strong>and</strong> digestibility), soy sprouts (germes de soja),<br />

green vegetable soybeans (le soja frais). 5. Fermented soy<br />

condiments: Solid condiments from Japan: Tokyo natto (Le<br />

Tokio-<strong>Natto</strong>) <strong>and</strong> Ping-Ming natto or tao-tche (Le Ping-ming-<br />

<strong>Natto</strong>; fermented black soybeans with salt, ginger, orange<br />

rind, etc. A similar product is made in China <strong>and</strong> called taotche).<br />

Paste condiments: Miso (four types <strong>and</strong> composition),<br />

tao-tjung (Chinese miso). Sauces: Shoyu (its production,<br />

varieties, properties, composition), chiang-yu (tsiang-yeou),<br />

ketjap [kechap, from Java], tuong (from Annam, with rice or<br />

corn), tao-yu (widely used in China <strong>and</strong> Japan, described by<br />

Prinsen Geerligs). 6. Confectionery products: Comparison<br />

with chestnuts, roasted soy fl our to replace chocolate. 7. Soy<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fee (with analysis by Kornauth). 8. Special fermented<br />

products: Kiu-tsee (a special commercial ferment from

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