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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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kedele, taugeh. Japan: daizu no moyashi. Korea: Kong<br />

namul. Malaysia: kacang soja, taugeh. Philippines: utaw.<br />

Thail<strong>and</strong>: thua-lueang.<br />

Soy sauce (p. 351-52). Chinese soy sauce: Dark soy<br />

sauce. Light soy sauce (“Usually labeled ‘superior soy’”).<br />

Mushroom soy sauce (Dark soy sauce that has been fl avored<br />

with straw mushrooms). Japanese soy sauces: Koikuchi<br />

(regular shoyu), tamari, usukuchi. Korean soy sauce<br />

(“About the same colour as Chinese light soy sauce, but not<br />

as fi ercely salty <strong>and</strong> with a sweet malted aroma”). Thick<br />

<strong>and</strong> fl avoured soy sauces: Kecap asin (“A dark, salty soy<br />

sauce, from Indonesia, a little thicker than the dark soy <strong>of</strong><br />

China”). Kecap manis (A thick, sweet soy sauce from Java,<br />

Indonesia). Kicap cair: “The Malaysian equivalent <strong>of</strong> light<br />

soy sauce.” Kicap pekat: “The Malaysian equivalent <strong>of</strong> dark<br />

soy sauce, though thicker than the Chinese version, but not<br />

as thick as kecap manis.” Ponzu shoyu. Toyo mansi (p. 352):<br />

“A soy sauce used in the Philippines soured with kalamansi<br />

juice.”<br />

Tempeh (p. 386). Incl. recipes for Savoury Tempeh <strong>and</strong><br />

Thai style tempeh. T<strong>of</strong>u (see bean curd).<br />

Also discusses: Adzuki bean, agar-agar (incl. almond<br />

bean curd, awayuki), almond, amaranth, cowpea, crab<br />

in black bean sauce (recipe at crab), daikon, millet,<br />

monosodium glutamate (“I would strongly recommend<br />

omitting it”), Nonya (pronounced ‘Nyonya.’ The unique<br />

cookery found in Malaysia <strong>and</strong> Singapore resulting from the<br />

fusion <strong>of</strong> Malay <strong>and</strong> Chinese cuisine during the last century),<br />

peanut, peanut sauce, sago (this palm fl owers only once in<br />

its life, at about age 15. Just before fl owering, it builds up<br />

a large reserve <strong>of</strong> starch in the pith. The tree is felled, the<br />

pith scooped out, ground <strong>and</strong> washed to make sago starch),<br />

seaweed (incl. agar-agar, hijiki, kombu / konbu, mozuku,<br />

nori / laver, wakame), sesame paste, sesame seed, vegetarian<br />

meals (“By far the most important vegetarian food in the Far<br />

East... is bean curd”). Address: Australia.<br />

1626. Tamang, J.P.; Nikkuni, Sayuki. 1998. Effect <strong>of</strong><br />

temperatures during pure culture fermentation <strong>of</strong> kinema.<br />

World J. <strong>of</strong> Microbiology <strong>and</strong> Biotechnology 14(6):847-50.<br />

[13 ref]<br />

• Summary: Using a pure culture starter, whole cooked<br />

soybeans were fermented at 35ºC, 40ºC, <strong>and</strong> 45ºC for 24<br />

hours. Key variables were recorded. At higher temperatures<br />

the bacteria grew more rapidly. “A remarkable increase in<br />

the relative viscosity <strong>of</strong> kinema was observed at 40ºC...”<br />

Moreover, kinema matured at below 10ºC for one day after<br />

the desired fermentation showed an additional signifi cant<br />

increase in viscosity. The quality <strong>of</strong> kinema was maintained<br />

by pure culture fermentation using a select strain <strong>of</strong> Bacillus<br />

subtilis at 40ºC, for 20 hours, <strong>and</strong> matured at 5ºC for one<br />

day. Address: National Food Research Inst., Ministry <strong>of</strong><br />

Agriculture, Forestry <strong>and</strong> Fisheries, 2-1-2, Kannondai,<br />

Tsukuba, Ibaraki 305 Japan 305. Present address <strong>of</strong> Tamang:<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 503<br />

Microbiology Research Lab., Sikkim Government College,<br />

Gangtok, Sikkim 737 102, India. Phone: 091-3592-31503.<br />

Fax: 091-3592-22707.<br />

1627. Tamang, Jyoti Prakash; Tamang, Namrata. 1998.<br />

Traditional food recipes <strong>of</strong> the Sikkim Himalayas. Gangtok,<br />

Sikkim, India: Sikkim Biodiversity <strong>and</strong> Eco-tourism Project,<br />

GBPIHED. 31 p. [Eng]<br />

• Summary: The three main ethnic groups <strong>of</strong> the Sikkim<br />

Himalayas are the Nepalis, the Bhutias, <strong>and</strong> the Lepchas.<br />

Table 1 shows the traditional fermented foods <strong>of</strong> this area;<br />

one <strong>of</strong> these is kinema. Table 2 shows the traditional nonfermented<br />

foods <strong>of</strong> this area; one <strong>of</strong> these is Vatamas ko<br />

achar, a pickled soybean food [seasoning].<br />

Recipes for kinema (p. 6-7) <strong>and</strong> Vatamas ko achar (p.<br />

7) are given. The ingredients for the latter seasoning are:<br />

Soybean 200 gm. Ginger paste 1 tablespoon. Chili powder 1<br />

teaspoon. Salt 1 teaspoon. Mustard oil 1 tablespoon. Method:<br />

Roast soybean in a pan, then grind. Add all the ingredients to<br />

soybean powder <strong>and</strong> mix well. Keep in a covered jar; it can<br />

be kept for several days. Serve with cooked rice / Selroti.<br />

Note: According to a PowerPoint presentation by<br />

Dr. Tamang in 2010, Vatamas ko achar is consumed in<br />

Nepal, Darjeeling, <strong>and</strong> Sikkim, primarily by Nepalis, who<br />

also consume (in this same area) roasted soybeans (called<br />

vatamas) <strong>and</strong> boiled whole soybeans (also called vatamas).<br />

Address: 1. PhD, PDF (Japan); 2. M.Sc., B.Ed. Both: Food<br />

Microbiology Lab., Sikkim Government College, Gangtok,<br />

Sikkim 737 102, India.<br />

1628. Watanabe, S. Assignor to Suzuyo Kogyo Co. Ltd.<br />

1998. [Fermentation room with a horizontal fl ow type <strong>of</strong> air<br />

conditioner. Fermentation room for natto]. Japanese Patent<br />

No. 0289668. [Jap]*<br />

1629. Watanabe, S. Assignor to Suzuyo Kogyo Co. Ltd.<br />

1998. [Continuous fermentation system <strong>and</strong> fermentation<br />

room. Applicant]. Japanese Patent No. 2760380. [Jap]*<br />

1630. Wood, Brian J.B. ed. 1998. Microbiology <strong>of</strong> fermented<br />

foods. 2nd ed. 2 vols. London: Blackie Academic &<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essional / Thompson Science. An imprint <strong>of</strong> Chapman &<br />

Hall. [300+ ref]<br />

• Summary: Soybeans are discussed extensively. In Vol. 1,<br />

in the chapter titled “Fermented protein foods in the Orient:<br />

shoyu <strong>and</strong> miso,” by Yokotsuka <strong>and</strong> Sasaki (p. 351-416) are<br />

detailed <strong>and</strong> historical discussions <strong>of</strong> chu (koji), chiang (p.<br />

355), <strong>and</strong> shi (fermented black soybeans, p. 355-56), chiangyu<br />

(soy sauce, p. 356-57), etc.<br />

In the Ben-Chao-Gong Mu [Bencao gangmu, The great<br />

pharmacopoeia, 1596] many types <strong>of</strong> shi are discussed. In<br />

more recent times these have apparently been classifi ed<br />

into three types depending on the microorganism used in<br />

the fermentation: (1) Aspergillus oryzae type. (2) Mucor

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