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History of Natto and Its Relatives (1405-2012 - SoyInfo Center

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<strong>of</strong> doenjang (fermented soybean paste). In: John Shi, C.-T.<br />

Ho, <strong>and</strong> F. Shahidi. 2005. Asian Functional Foods. Boca<br />

Raton, Florida: CRC Press. xxi + 647 p. See p. 555-96.<br />

Chap. 20. [121 ref]<br />

• Summary: Contents: Introduction. <strong>History</strong> <strong>of</strong> Korean<br />

soybean fermented foods. Manufacturing methods <strong>and</strong><br />

characteristics <strong>of</strong> doenjang fermentation. Functional<br />

properties <strong>of</strong> doenjang: Nutritional <strong>and</strong> functional<br />

components in soybean <strong>and</strong> doenjang, safety <strong>of</strong> doenjang,<br />

antimutagenic activity <strong>of</strong> doenjang. Anticancer effect <strong>of</strong><br />

doenjang. Increased chemopreventive effect <strong>of</strong> doenjang:<br />

Antioxidant effects, reduced cardiovascular diseases<br />

(fi brinolytic effect {as in chungkookjang <strong>and</strong> natto which<br />

secrete strong fi brinolytic enzymes}, antihypertensive<br />

effects, reduced serum cholesterol level), other possible<br />

functions <strong>of</strong> doenjang. Conclusion.<br />

Doenjang is “Korean fermented soy paste” <strong>and</strong> kanjang<br />

is Korean-style fermented soy sauce that is obtained<br />

by fi ltering <strong>of</strong>f the liquid from doenjang. “Historically<br />

soybeans <strong>and</strong> processed soybean foods have been the<br />

main protein sources in the Korean diet” (p. 555). “The<br />

medicinal functions <strong>of</strong> doenjang were fi rst described in the<br />

Dongeuibogam [Dongui Bogam (RR), Tongui Pogam (MR)]<br />

(1613 A.D.), which was a popular traditional Korean medical<br />

text” [no citation given].<br />

The section titled “<strong>History</strong> <strong>of</strong> Korean soybean fermented<br />

foods” contains what promises to be a number <strong>of</strong> references<br />

to early <strong>and</strong> possibly very interesting documents that mention<br />

soybeans <strong>and</strong> soyfoods in Korea. Yet the authors fail to cite<br />

any <strong>of</strong> them properly, so for the time being, we must accept<br />

their account <strong>of</strong> what the documents say. The problems are:<br />

(1) None <strong>of</strong> these documents (except one, Ref. #46) is cited<br />

in the long list <strong>of</strong> references at the end <strong>of</strong> the chapter. (2) The<br />

title <strong>of</strong> all these documents is given only in Korean, even<br />

though at least two should have Chinese titles; one <strong>of</strong> those<br />

two (described as “The Chinese agricultural technology<br />

book, Jeminyosul {A.D. 530 to 550} written by a governor,<br />

Maeeunsa,...”) is actually the famous Qimin Yaoshu, by Jia<br />

Sixie. (3) We are never told in what language the original<br />

document referred to is written. (4) The page number(s) on<br />

which the ancient, important information appears is not given<br />

for any <strong>of</strong> these documents. (5) For some documents no date<br />

is given, whereas for others no author is given. (6) It is not<br />

clear what names were used to refer to each <strong>of</strong> the various<br />

soyfoods in the original documents. (7) The authors never<br />

tell us whether they examined the original document, or read<br />

a contemporary version, or simply got the information from a<br />

secondary source.<br />

For example (all dates are A.D.): 99–It has been reported<br />

[by what document?] that soybeans were cultivated–Where<br />

were they cultivated?<br />

530-550–The Jeminyosul [Quimin Yaoshu] states (in<br />

Chinese) that shi [fermented black soybeans], soybeans<br />

fermented with bacteria, in Korea were disseminated to<br />

© Copyright Soyinfo <strong>Center</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

HISTORY OF NATTO AND ITS RELATIVES 556<br />

China <strong>and</strong> Japan.<br />

683 Feb.–An article [no title given] by King Sinmoon,<br />

that appeared in the 3rd year <strong>of</strong> his reign (during the Silla<br />

dynasty), mentioned the words jang (mold-fermented<br />

soybeans) <strong>and</strong> shi (bacteria-fermented soybeans).<br />

701–Daeboyulryong mentioned the words jang, shi, <strong>and</strong><br />

maljang, which referred to soybean products.<br />

739–Jungchang Wonmooseu also mentioned the word<br />

maljang.<br />

Donga (no date given), which was written by<br />

Shinjungbaesuk (is that the writer’s real name?) in Japan,<br />

“indicated that maljang was imported from Korye (the old<br />

name <strong>of</strong> Korea);” it was renamed “miso” (Source: Ref. #46–<br />

35th Chronicle <strong>of</strong> Korea Soy Sauce Industrial Cooperative.<br />

1997. Seoul. p. 27-32). Korean jang is said to have<br />

developed into traditional Japanese miso using meju made <strong>of</strong><br />

soybeans <strong>and</strong> rice instead <strong>of</strong> maljang, which was made from<br />

soybeans only.<br />

918-1392–During the Korye [Goryeo] dynasty, [in<br />

Korea] the name “maljang” changed to “maejyo” <strong>and</strong> then<br />

to “meju” [meaning soybean koji in the shape <strong>of</strong> balls or<br />

cones]; it was soaked in brine in a clay pot <strong>and</strong> ripened [then<br />

fi ltered]. The liquid was called kanjang (soy sauce) <strong>and</strong> the<br />

solid sediment was called doenjang (soy paste).<br />

1613–Donguebogam [see above], written by Hurjun,<br />

described how to make medicinal doenjang using soybeans<br />

<strong>and</strong> how to fi x soured doenjang.<br />

1760–Jungbosan Limkyunge, written by Yojungim,<br />

“introduced 45 different processing methods for soybean<br />

foods, describing how many days fermentation for jang,<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> water, salt quality, how to h<strong>and</strong>le the pottery,<br />

fi xing jang with an <strong>of</strong>f-taste, etc.”<br />

1790 ca–Kyuhap Chongseo, written by Madam Lee<br />

(lived 1759-1824) described the proper methods for making<br />

the various types <strong>of</strong> jang in great detail.<br />

1930 ca.–Commercial production <strong>of</strong> fermented soybean<br />

products (“jang” in Korean) started in Japanese-built jang<br />

factories in Korea during the occupation (1909-1945) to<br />

supply soybean products for the Japanese in Japan.<br />

1945–After gaining independence from Japan, Koreans<br />

took over the factories. Since the Korean war (1950-1953)<br />

military personnel <strong>and</strong> people living in large cities have<br />

mostly consumed commercial fermented soybean products,<br />

whereas families living in rural areas still prepare their own.<br />

Address: Pusan National University, Busan, Korea.<br />

1820. Sharma, Suresh Kant; Sharma, Usha. 2005. Discovery<br />

<strong>of</strong> north-east India: geography, history, culture, religion,<br />

politics, sociology, science, education <strong>and</strong> economy. 11 vols.<br />

New Delhi, India: Mittal. See Vol. 8, “Mizoram,” p. 234.<br />

Illust. 23 cm. *<br />

• Summary: Page 234: Pot bekang <strong>and</strong> soya bean are<br />

mentioned. Address: New Delhi, India.

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